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You may want to contact Matt at Guard Transmission to discuss gear and LSD options. Matt is very knowledgeable and helpful in working through options. I believe he is GT Gears on RL. https://www.guardtransmissionllc.com
Yes, I already saw many post from GT guards and their story speaks for them, huge porsche motorsport experience, but they are located in the U.S.
But I will follow your advice and contact them, lets stay positive.
this gearbox is driving me crazy...together with rocker arms this aspect represents the last remaining hole in the rebuilding process.
I finally found a donor car for the entire electrical system, the fuel lines and brake lines running under the car. I found a good shop where to overhaul and check the brake calipers and paint them red.
And most important, the next tuesday the coachbuilder isngoing to start the bodywork, I can't really wait for it!
There are also these rocker arms, http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-9...FVD105399.html
Perhaps you could contact FVD or Auto Atlanta, find out who the manufacturer is of the two kits and speak to the manufacturer directly.
^^ Their kit appears to be stock mechanical 964 style rockers used for decades with stock 993 rocker shafts and the rest. Although I can't tell from the pictures but it appears they plugged the splash weep holes in the rockers. If not you will risk loosing oil pressure since oil is fed through the shafts and pressure would be lost by the oil escaping through the holes. It is possible they are supplying a custom shafts with smaller oil feed hole since less oil is necessary and no need to pressurize the hydraulic lifter. I don't know what to say regarding the cams. My understanding is that these will make more noise and is only worthwhile for engines that are run at consistently high RPMS above 6k or 7k rpms. Porsche has used these same rocker arms with a wide variety of cams for decades. I know of countless engines built with mild to wild cams all using the mechanical rockers with no issues.
I suspect due to the cam profile change from the 964 to 993 there will be more noise and I am assuming they don't want people complaining but that is all I can think of. I don't believe the engine will fail by just switching over to mechanical if done properly. For street use I suspect there will be no gain and only added adjustments. My build is a slightly higher revving engine than stock. I also changed out my valve springs to a stronger spring and Ti retainers to match the higher revs. It will be twin turbocharged with no exhaust for track duty. I don't think additional noise will be a concern for me.
9M and Pauter also make kits for solid rocker conversion. Although they are weighing the cast iron rockers vs their forged units. The 993 units are forged and weigh less so I chose to modify them. Not quite as light as the pauter units but close.
Maybe you send your heads out to a 911 air-cooled builder who can take on doing a engine head overhaul/machine shop work to upgrade to solid lifters, spring/valve upgrade, and cam upgrade so your mechanic can focus on assembling the motor?
Maybe you send your heads out to a 911 air-cooled builder who can take on doing a engine head overhaul/machine shop work to upgrade to solid lifters, spring/valve upgrade, and cam upgrade so your mechanic can focus on assembling the motor?
2 aspects, one related to the other
- first of all budget: the voices where to "invest" money are many, some for sure are going to be unexpected, especially the gearbox rebuild is truly expensive, if as someone has suggested me trying to do i dont find a sort of sponsor who can help me with the trasmission, maybe I can find one used, but i must be conservative for the worst scenario, i.e. buying 5 sets of G50.32 from the manufacturer I am already in contact with.
- secondary, if I have to invest so much money in the gearbox, the option to send all the heads package to 9meister (the first name for such a job my mind recalls) and spend at least 5k (I suppose) would postpone the end of works deadline even further.
I know it would be super amazing building a very pepper 3,6 liter version, and in that case I could send 9meister also the varioram intake (I know they rework it inside to optimise the intake flow) but this can happen if I find a way to save somewhere else or if some company might be interested in helping this project, maybe in exchange of visibility.
It is all a very work in progress, a very fluid situation, in which I do not exclude "a priori" to do certain mods, but I must also keep my feet on the ground and guarantee myself a way that I can go counting only on my legs to get to my destination. Then if along the way a reality operating in this world of magnificent 911 would want to help me, it would be a fantastic thing!
If meanwhile nothing changes, the safest option is to put the new hydraulic tappets that I have already bought (OEM product from INA) and still go for varioram intake and its DME unit.
Is it true (or lets say strongly advisable) to change the distribution chain sprockets on intermediate shaft and on both camshaft sides as someone told me while putting on new distribution chains?
I mean, if the sprockets are as new as the connecting rod bearings are, is it really mandatory to change them?
I know, the engine is open, but if the craftsman in the rectifying shop tells me he wouldn't change them (I am referring to connecting-rod bearings and rod bush), what would you suggest me to tell him to do? Maybe before changing them measure the diameters of each bearing?
or is it a no brainer and they must be replaced, no matter what is the clearance and if they look and are perfect?
where can I find a reference for tolerances of these parts of the engine?
and in regard to chain sprockets, which is the way to go?
Little picture update/juicy bits for very sick porsche 993 enthusiast
Vesuvius (Stahlgrau & Diamantsilber) wheels: these are the wheels that have remained four and half years sumberged in sweet water together with brand new heating shields
Hunting mechanical rockers squadron
Other angle
detail 1
detail 2
Listening to some good friend's advice, for the ones of you who want to follow this project also seeing videos and participating in a more relaxed, eventually closer and less technical way, I've started an instagram page - something that is totally new to me - that you can find here:
Wow! Can they really straighten that, or do many pieces have to be cut out?
First of all they will pull panels to make the bottom of the car aligned using the original porsche 993 dime and to bring the windscreen pillars as much as possible in place.
After that, they will cut the panels that need to be changed and waterblast the car using the "rotisserie", cleaning also the inner side of the remofed door sills, so that they can work on clean surface and see accurately where rust is.
Most of esthetic panels will be cut out/changed: both rear quarters together with door sills, both front fender (they are already removed and new ones need to be carefully screwed and chewed), together with a new roof and its front reinforcement.
the only exterior surface that is still perfectly reusable is the rear lid.
06-10-2020, 08:39 AM
