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The fact everything now in everyon's mind works with this big heavy weight in background...probably having something to dedicate our time will be so meaningfull and helpful to preserve ourselves psicologically.
Agreed, working with my hands on my 993 track car in the evenings is what my wife calls my “happy place”, the focus and fading of the daily angst is therapeutic and meets ”social distancing” at the same time :-)
Agreed, working with my hands on my 993 track car in the evenings is what my wife calls my “happy place”, the focus and fading of the daily angst is therapeutic and meets ”social distancing” at the same time :-)
During the last days I am taking care of the brake calipers, cleaning them and trying to make a full rebuild, the hardest part seems to be the removal of the 8 small torx screws that must be screwed up using blue loctite plus the rost and 4 and half years locking effect.
meanwhile it has arrived a nice parcel from a RLer living in Toronto, i must really thank you William for your availability and your enthusiasm about our lovely and expensive pets.
I am looking forward to the brake calipers rebuild as a very exciting challenge...and then every time I pass in front of the old yellow front bonnet I can't really wait for the moment I'll see the car in perfect shape again.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 04-07-2020 at 01:44 PM.
sorry to hijack this great thread, but when you put the fan bolt back on...how do you tork the nut to spec if you need to hold the center shaft with the triple square?
sorry to hijack this great thread, but when you put the fan bolt back on...how do you tork the nut to spec if you need to hold the center shaft with the triple square?
Engine out it's no problem otherwise it's a C socket and a calculation, most times it's case of, " Grunt" "That's not going anywhere."
sorry to hijack this great thread, but when you put the fan bolt back on...how do you tork the nut to spec if you need to hold the center shaft with the triple square?
Goodandtight for me, but my more **** buddy uses a crowsfoot
A bit of heat on the TORX bolts holding the retainer plates inside of the calipers helps to break the high temp Loctite. The good news is that you don't have to open up the calipers considering that they are essentially sealed to the external environment.. Remove the pistons and if they look clean inside, there's no need to take out the big hex bolts or connecting brake tubing between the two sides of the caliper..
A bit of heat on the TORX bolts holding the retainer plates inside of the calipers helps to break the high temp Loctite. The good news is that you don't have to open up the calipers considering that they are essentially sealed to the external environment.. Remove the pistons and if they look clean inside, there's no need to take out the big hex bolts or connecting brake tubing between the two sides of the caliper..
thank you very much Coleman for the very useful tips!
Halfway disassembling the calipers, I would really like to avoid separating the halves of each caliper, but same time I must go for some way to check if every fluid connection is working properly.
I must buy a smaller wrench to remove the 8 bolts from the rear calipers, then remove the 3 of 8 hollow screw that preferred to brake instead of unscrewing.
Apart of 2 brake cylinders, the others are in good shape (this is what I'd say from a very inexperienced point of view)...the cylinder walls are perfect, also the sealings seems very good.
Advices are very welcome...
from what I can see, I would buy all the dust covers new, the hollow bolts and the 2 npbig cylinders of one the front caliper, plus the antivibrating, avoiding to change the cylimder sealings and to uncouple the caliper halves.
I dont know if it is recommended not to change the cylinder sealings
In order to remove the bolts taking the brake pad guides in place I had to make a cut into the bolt head, because the torx were unusable.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 04-10-2020 at 05:23 PM.
I just did the same thing with my calipers.. Usually if you have the Pistons out you would change the external piston dust seals as well as the internal pressure seal (Piston Wiper) (square O-ring)
Oh man, you broke the bleed nipple off.. Luckily it's already been drilled out for you, so you're gonna need a reverse thread extractor..
I just put these new German Stahlbus speed bleeders on my rebuilt calipers; They are stainless so even if the bleeder bodies fuse in place, you never need to take them out to bleed the system, just loosen the end part.
For the seals, you need to confirm the size of your pistons, it will be something like this for a non-turbo C2:
44, 36 Front 34, 30 Rear
I ordered some boots / wipers from Ohio Performance , great service and great prices; though they are not OE Brembo seals.. they are StopTech seals. Since you're in Italy, you can probably find a good deal on Brembo parts!
Couple of great threads for caliper rebuilds here and here. Important to get the correct assembly grease for the pistons ...
I just did the same thing with my calipers.. Usually if you have the Pistons out you would change the external piston dust seals as well as the internal pressure seal (Piston Wiper) (square O-ring)
Oh man, you broke the bleed nipple off.. Luckily it's already been drilled out for you, so you're gonna need a reverse thread extractor..
I just put these new German Stahlbus speed bleeders on my rebuilt calipers; They are stainless so even if the bleeder bodies fuse in place, you never need to take them out to bleed the system, just loosen the end part.
For the seals, you need to confirm the size of your pistons, it will be something like this for a non-turbo C2:
44, 36 Front 34, 30 Rear
I ordered some boots / wipers from Ohio Performance , great service and great prices; though they are not OE Brembo seals.. they are StopTech seals. Since you're in Italy, you can probably find a good deal on Brembo parts!
Couple of great threads for caliper rebuilds here and here. Important to get the correct assembly grease for the pistons ...
thank you very much Coleman, now I have to wait the shops to be open to get the last 4 bolts removed together with the 3 broken hollow bleeder bolts.
meanwhile I am going to lay down the entire wiring harness so that I can clean it and check every connector carefully.
Now it's time for a deep clean with a huge flow of wd40, a very effective and tireless partner in crime
I was able to remove the entire wiring harness without disconnecting the single cables from the fuse box, so now once clean I will have cleaned everything I will have to label every cable and sign its position in the fuse box and check electrical continuity and resistance of every single cable.
03-17-2020, 10:45 PM
