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Thank you Mikke, I would like to try saving some money, so first choice is finding used parts in good condition.
I am looking for part # 7 in the picture: does anyone know where to find it?
You will need to go to Main group (MG) 1 (engine), Sub Group (SG) 3 (timing), illustration 103-15. It appears to be part number 24 and is meshed with the intermediate shaft gear, which makes sense. Finding this part separately might be challenging, but try ebay or the local parts dismantlers.
You will need to go to Main group (MG) 1 (engine), Sub Group (SG) 3 (timing), illustration 103-15. It appears to be part number 24 and is meshed with the intermediate shaft gear, which makes sense. Finding this part separately might be challenging, but try ebay or the local parts dismantlers.
Thank you quadcammer,
and Number 0 or Number 1 what do represent?
I have been basically looking for a very well known for the quality of its work supplier for the gears and LSD here in italy, and finally I found it: premium quality gears, which means they can provide decades of experience in manufacturing gears, in my case helical gears, thermal cementation treatment and gear grinding, plus the LSD total rebuild.
I am probably going to order two gear sets for my 993s, I don't know how it works in here, if I need to ask a permission to create/share a group buy, otherwise I am going to order just the minimum amount they are asking, and take the surplus G50.21 gears and main shafts in my garage.
Probably it is predictable to you, but I can honestly share with you I am quite excited already at the idea to provide the G50.21 gear ratio to both my 993s!
I have the two gears nr in nr 24 (red arrow). The top one of them is the same as nr 7.
I needed a new axel (blue arrow) and did buy part nr 24 from Porsche. Removed the new gears and used my old two gears.
The two are needed too be a matchting 0 & 0 or 1 & 1. The nr is stamped on the gears.
If you are intressed in two brand new gears let me know.
I have the two gears nr in nr 24 (red arrow). The top one of them is the same as nr 7.
I needed a new axel (blue arrow) and did buy part nr 24 from Porsche. Removed the new gears and used my old two gears.
The two are needed too be a matchting 0 & 0 or 1 & 1. The nr is stamped on the gears.
If you are intressed in two brand new gears let me know.
I found this "0" on the part...so I think it is a 0 - 0
I am definitely interested in replacing the couple of gears.
A little update regarding the electronic stuff: I don't know if this does make sense, but Patrik gave me a contact I will definitely write or call to see if there is the possibility to recover 100% the control units.
The ABS control unit looks amazingly in almost perfect condition, after having been 4,5 years under water
Little update: the mechanic is going to make an estimate for the engine part preparation for rebuild.
The engine parts look compleately undamaged and it could be simply requested a disassembly, cleaning, verification, reassembly, because the parts seem to be in very good shape, naming parts the crankshaft, the connecting rods, cylinder heads, camshafts, cams.
I also finally found the shop where to make the engine block, gear block, and all the parts that need to be cleaned done.
vey probably the engine rebuilt will be ended few months before the bodywork, so there will be time to place the order at the gear manufacturer, where it will take few months to have the 5 complete sets of G50.21 gears done (gears + primary shaft).
I can't really wait for the parts to be here in my garage to start the engine rebuild, assisted by a very experienced (on such engines) person...the Single Mass Flywheel is already arrived, closed in its plastic anti-rust bag.
During the last days I was asking myself how it must be the procedure to get the crankshaft together with the flywheel balanced.
I think it is beautiful to go deeper into the mechanics of this car, especially thinking at the moment the engine will start roaring.
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 02-02-2020 at 06:37 PM.
Little Update: very soon the body shell will be transported to the body shop, in the meantime, silverina waits confidently that the pieces lying next to her will return to live in what will be her garage playmate.
I don't recall which ones between the rear multilink suspension arms should be harder rubber bushing, and which ones shouldn't: would it be better to use the 85 harder rubber shore for every single arm?
What is the best way to remove/extract the inserts?
Last edited by nothingbutgt3; 02-08-2020 at 06:52 AM.
Little Update: very soon the body shell will be transported to the body shop, in the meantime, silverina waits confidently that the pieces lying next to her will return to live in what will be her garage playmate.
I don't recall which ones between the rear multilink suspension arms should be harder rubber bushing, and which ones shouldn't: would it be better to use the 85 harder rubber shore for every single arm?
What is the best way to remove/extract the inserts?
Paolo , likely a press if handy but a bearing puller will suffice , Bert
On my build I used the same 85 shore/RS hardness prekom bushings for all of the control arms with the exception of the toe arm which I used a tie rod from ERP instead.
The control arm bushing removal and install was actually pretty easy. Check out my hotrod build blog. I documented the steps to do it without a press.
On my build I used the same 85 shore/RS hardness prekom bushings for all of the control arms with the exception of the toe arm which I used a tie rod from ERP instead.
The control arm bushing removal and install was actually pretty easy. Check out my hotrod build blog. I documented the steps to do it without a press.
Same. I used 85 on every bushing front and rear and couldn’t be happier.
01-22-2020, 12:03 PM
