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Please explain. Is the battery tender recommended for colder climates only? Sometimes it’ll be 7-10 days between times that I’m driving my T due to travel or driving other cars. But I’m in Texas where it’s often not that cold.
I purchased and started using the same thing recently due to my limited driving in San Francisco. I sometimes drive my MY20 C2S only once a week or once every 2 weeks, and for shorter in-city drives. I had to jump my battery twice in the past 3 months, with the check engine light on after the first time and even after driving the car for ~40 min the day before the second time. I took it in to service and they recommended I use a battery tender. I thought I could avoid it as long as I drove the car weekly, but apparently not. I guess the battery voltage was slowly degrading after accumulated limited driving (even once per week).
Please explain. Is the battery tender recommended for colder climates only? Sometimes it’ll be 7-10 days between times that I’m driving my T due to travel or driving other cars. But I’m in Texas where it’s often not that cold.
I have a Battery Tender Setup for my 992T up in Boston because its going to be stored for the entire winter... Its in a heated garage, but likely will go 2-3 months without a start, so obviously I felt I needed to get the Porsche battery tender...
To give you some more data points though for your decision, when I went to the Porsche Dealer to ask them about buying the new Li-Ion battery charger setup, they were not convinced that it was needed...They said it was a coin flip on whether or not the battery would go dead or make it a few months without needing to spend the few hundred on the charger. If the car is properly locked and all accessories disconnected etc might get away without needing the charger if the garage is warm enough...
Since the Li-ion battery costs $2K to replace, and the charger is only $200ish... I decided to opt for the cheaper up front cost and avoid any potential issues...
Another important data point!! if You drive the car 6K miles per year, the Li-Ion battery IS covered under warranty... If you can prove that you have driven the car enough monthly miles to add up to 6K a year, they will replace any failed lightweight battery... If you do not drive 6K miles a year, the battery is not covered under warranty...
So since I am putting my 992T away for the winter with only 4900 miles in this first 6 months of ownership, I would not be covered because I didnt get 6K on the odometer and I wont be taking it back out until the spring time when I will be close to the 1 year mark of production.
Another important data point!! if You drive the car 6K miles per year, the Li-Ion battery IS covered under warranty... If you can prove that you have driven the car enough monthly miles to add up to 6K a year, they will replace any failed lightweight battery... If you do not drive 6K miles a year, the battery is not covered under warranty...
That is very interesting indeed, I'm good then since I put 12K on it since May!
I purchased and started using the same thing recently due to my limited driving in San Francisco. I sometimes drive my MY20 C2S only once a week or once every 2 weeks, and for shorter in-city drives. I had to jump my battery twice in the past 3 months, with the check engine light on after the first time and even after driving the car for ~40 min the day before the second time. I took it in to service and they recommended I use a battery tender. I thought I could avoid it as long as I drove the car weekly, but apparently not. I guess the battery voltage was slowly degrading after accumulated limited driving (even once per week).
How long do you think it took for this to happen?
E.g. if you bought the car in June 2020, did you not have this problem for the first year or two and only around year 3 did the cumulative drainage started to manifest as a problem?
In Florida a CC permit isn't enough for how you have it installed in your car. White flag or not it would be the discretion of the officer to arrest and charge with open carry. If the holster you have there had a snap over it, then your chances improve because technically that is a "secure case". What's paradoxical is that if it were in a holster in your waistband and concealed you'd be ok with the CC permit. If it were me I would not risk it because the glove box is easy enough to get to in a small car like the 911. Again, this is in Florida so I don't know how the laws might be different in your State. What I AM confident in is I would check and satisfy yourself that you are within the law. Regardless of how nice you are if pulled over, some LEO's follow the letter and may cause issues for you.
Yes that mount while looks great would be a no-go for me....too much risk for an accidental shooting from some officer who mis-interprets ones intentions and threat to themselves with a firearm easily within reach in the car. Even a glimpse from outside the vehicle and clear or obstructed view of the firearm or suspected firearm in an instant by a police officer especially under poor lighting or unknown other circumstances could result in shooting of said driver and threat aka me due to misperception. Also differing legal interpretations as you go from jurisdiction to jurisdiction even within the same state where laws may be more favorable to me brings too much in question with respect to relying on the split section judgement, disposition, attitude of the law enforcement officer as to the threat and circumstances presented. Add to it other biases we've seen and no way I'd carry like that. Just saying and I have a weapons carry permit in my state (GA) where open carry is legal...too much risk. If I gotta worry about getting to my weapon that much in my 992 then maybe I either a) am gonna take another vehicle or b) maybe should not go at all/stay at home!
Originally Posted by C4SNY
Installed OEM illuminated dark silver aluminum door sills. Plug and play for the 992s.
Originally Posted by C4SNY
The new sills come with wires - you need to add the pins to a plug. It took me about 30-40 minutes to remove each sill and install them. The only time consuming part was removing the old adhesive with a plastic scraper and cleaning up any residue. I pulled off the old sills easily as I didn’t care about bending it.
The instructions posted are dead on. Just need to realize where to insert the new pins. The new pins attaches to the bottom plugs for each side. No way to really mess this up, just need to be patient and take your time.
I did this on my previous older 911s and it required splicing wires. This was the cleanest install.
Hmmm so where is the original wiring then? Already pre-wired in ALL 992s is what you are saying? Inserting pins is all plus removal of old OEM ones is all that is needed I assume but do you have any pics to share/show to clairfy? Where your prior ones lighted prior or unlighted and basic kick/side panels? May be an interesting DITY project for my 2021.
Originally Posted by zanary
I got this gift from my family for my future 911-T coming end of March...
Very nice where did you find this? Never seen it before especially w/60th anniversary logo!
Hmmm so where is the original wiring then? Already pre-wired in ALL 992s is what you are saying? Inserting pins is all plus removal of old OEM ones is all that is needed I assume but do you have any pics to share/show to clairfy? Where your prior ones lighted prior or unlighted and basic kick/side panels? May be an interesting DITY project for my 2021.
You need to insert a new wire that comes with the new door sills to the existing plug that’s behind the carpet by the fuse box. See the attached instructions.
01-01-2024, 11:04 AM
