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It's not the disassembly that worries me. It's the re-assembly.
with all of the little plastic tabs and clips I am always more worried about disassembly because it always seems getting them to release needs about 10% more force than I think will break the part. Lol.
Originally Posted by siberian
If you can detail the removal and where the screws are I can move it to DIY as others may be interested. Thanks
siberian
I wish that I had documented it all, but I was working pretty quickly there is a good YouTube video on how to take the console apart i can link to if people want.
If you buy wheels with the proper offsets do you still need spacers?
No, we've done a lot of testing. Spacers (we think) look good on the stock wheels to help add a more aggressive look. When you lower the car, the wheels really tuck inward so it becomes more important if you want to maintain a clean look.
Not to spoil the party but I find all parts on flat6motorsports.com badly overpriced. Also, spacers are no mystery...
If you need some real quality forged AL spacers at reasonable prices for our car - look here: https://4wheelspacers.com
No party to spoil, we sell over 85 brands at MAP/retail pricing and provide free shipping on all orders over $299 in the U.S. We also provide very personalized service and support. We invest in a plethora of designing, developing and testing solutions and we share those results with consumers. There will always be cheaper options here and there on certain "parts" and if what we provide isn't of value to you, it's your money we understand.
No, we've done a lot of testing. Spacers (we think) look good on the stock wheels to help add a more aggressive look. When you lower the car, the wheels really tuck inward so it becomes more important if you want to maintain a clean look.
yes I'd like to know if it can be added after the fact...everyone says no, but I find it hard to believe its not plug and play and a software update
Unfortunately, it's not possible on the 992 like it is on previous generation. The entire wiring harness is completely different and there's no way to code in just the chrono clock. There are just too many sums of parts for it to be plug and play. It might be possible someone figures out a way to draw power and have an independent clock controller. I ended up buying a vent off ebay and we developed a 3D printed mount for the Banks Power OBD module. It provides a full configurable gauge that can monitor a ton of stuff like boost pressure, IATs, AFR and you can even datalog and reset DTCs through it. Not for everyone but I've enjoyed having another monitor. I'll be replacing it with the Snow Performance WMI controller when I add WMI to my 992.
Unfortunately, it's not possible on the 992 like it is on previous generation. The entire wiring harness is completely different and there's no way to code in just the chrono clock. There are just too many sums of parts for it to be plug and play. It might be possible someone figures out a way to draw power and have an independent clock controller. I ended up buying a vent off ebay and we developed a 3D printed mount for the Banks Power OBD module. It provides a full configurable gauge that can monitor a ton of stuff like boost pressure, IATs, AFR and you can even datalog and reset DTCs through it. Not for everyone but I've enjoyed having another monitor. I'll be replacing it with the Snow Performance WMI controller when I add WMI to my 992.
that’s actually quite interesting but he asked about just adding the color rings as shown in the previous post.
They don’t appear to have a whole car kit and I have no idea what size is needed front to back. His picture is with the same wheels I have and has already taken the guess work out of the process.
We'll be releasing our kit shortly. We're waiting on the machine shop to finish our first batch. We like 10mm all around. We think it's a nice OEM+ type look. Here they are on our 992 lowered on H&R springs. A fun fact, we 3D printed every size from 5mm-20mm to test different combinations at both axles. We've done a few locally for customers with H&R spacers. If that car is lowered with negative camber, 15mm/14mm works for a very meaty/flush look. I don't think anyone would want to go over that or they'll risk rubbing.