Xpel...Never again.
#271
Three Wheelin'
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I've read all of that many times. So car is wrapped forever?
#272
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Different strokes and different tolerances. If I was in a position to trade every couple of years then I would not go through with protecting.
I do financially well but not at the wealth level of many here and although I can afford to have and maintain my car comfortably, I cannot afford the cost of replacing with any frequency. Congrats to those that can.
Everyone has their own path and priorities.
I do financially well but not at the wealth level of many here and although I can afford to have and maintain my car comfortably, I cannot afford the cost of replacing with any frequency. Congrats to those that can.
Everyone has their own path and priorities.
#273
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Very interesting thread!
I used Xpel on my GTS4 and 650s. Used 3M something on my RS and M3. (Xpel is better)
I do the install myself, mainly because I think it is ridiculously priced and not all installer do a decent job. (plus, I like to do it)
I have to admit, my first install on the M3 was a disaster, the second was too. So the M3 got rapped 3 times. The third was better and now I can do a decent job. Even with the multiple attempts and waste of material is still cheaper than taking it to a shop.
If you think about your future cars you may want to invest (mainly time) into learning the install.
I used Xpel on my GTS4 and 650s. Used 3M something on my RS and M3. (Xpel is better)
I do the install myself, mainly because I think it is ridiculously priced and not all installer do a decent job. (plus, I like to do it)
I have to admit, my first install on the M3 was a disaster, the second was too. So the M3 got rapped 3 times. The third was better and now I can do a decent job. Even with the multiple attempts and waste of material is still cheaper than taking it to a shop.
If you think about your future cars you may want to invest (mainly time) into learning the install.
#274
Three Wheelin'
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Different strokes and different tolerances. If I was in a position to trade every couple of years then I would not go through with protecting.
I do financially well but not at the wealth level of many here and although I can afford to have and maintain my car comfortably, I cannot afford the cost of replacing with any frequency. Congrats to those that can.
Everyone has their own path and priorities.
I do financially well but not at the wealth level of many here and although I can afford to have and maintain my car comfortably, I cannot afford the cost of replacing with any frequency. Congrats to those that can.
Everyone has their own path and priorities.
I agree 100%.
#275
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9-10ft away, the car ppf covered car with polish looks brilliant! After 20k trackday miles and no PPF my AA2 looks badly marked even at 10ft
A properly detailed and polished car without PPF will always look better than a car covered in suntek/expel imho. The paint depth and shine will be greater, you will potentially able to see some stretch and on pre-cut PPF you will see the edges on close inspection.
However, particularly on self healing Suntek and expel, the paintwork will still look excellent from day one to at least day 2000. It will have minimal or no marks (definitely for expel), it will help resist bird crap, minor park and gate post damage. Additionally it gives peace of mind on track and vmax days :-)
Btw as mentioned, a excellent installer will make all the difference to how good the ppf is compared to just a detail.
#276
Three Wheelin'
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Nope. Had one install on for 6 years no pitting nor yellowing ... and that was 3m venture shield.
9-10ft away, the car ppf covered car with polish looks brilliant! After 20k trackday miles and no PPF my AA2 looks badly marked even at 10ft
A properly detailed and polished car without PPF will always look better than a car covered in suntek/expel imho. The paint depth and shine will be greater, you will potentially able to see some stretch and on pre-cut PPF you will see the edges on close inspection.
However, particularly on self healing Suntek and expel, the paintwork will still look excellent from day one to at least day 2000. It will have minimal or no marks (definitely for expel), it will help resist bird crap, minor park and gate post damage. Additionally it gives peace of mind on track and vmax days :-)
Btw as mentioned, a excellent installer will make all the difference to how good the ppf is compared to just a detail.
9-10ft away, the car ppf covered car with polish looks brilliant! After 20k trackday miles and no PPF my AA2 looks badly marked even at 10ft
A properly detailed and polished car without PPF will always look better than a car covered in suntek/expel imho. The paint depth and shine will be greater, you will potentially able to see some stretch and on pre-cut PPF you will see the edges on close inspection.
However, particularly on self healing Suntek and expel, the paintwork will still look excellent from day one to at least day 2000. It will have minimal or no marks (definitely for expel), it will help resist bird crap, minor park and gate post damage. Additionally it gives peace of mind on track and vmax days :-)
Btw as mentioned, a excellent installer will make all the difference to how good the ppf is compared to just a detail.
Take off and re install after 10 years?
#279
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1. How many installations on YOUR style/type of vehicle have they done? Have them explain what challenges are particular to YOUR installation and what he/she does to achieve a successful solution. There are shops that specialize in certain vehicles. IMHO, this gives them an advantage as they work on the same vehicles over and over. If the shop is professional and/or has a dedicated team, they are investing in a niche. It's like going to a cardiologist for your heart, not a general practitioner.
2. Have them walk you through what exactly will get covered and what the price includes. Often, a "full front end" isn't the same scope of installation from one shop to another. You're not shopping the film, you're shopping the installer, the guy cutting on your car. So, don't be so concerned about what film brand he/she uses. If a quality installer with great reference, he/she is also using top quality film.
3. What prep work is involved in the installation and what work is done post installation, if any. Dirt particles are one of the biggest problems with a satisfactory installation. Vehicle SHOULD be washed, areas of installation should be clayed at minimum and hand/machine polished as an option,to remove imperfections so the true brilliance of the paint is realized prior to installation. Installing pc Lear bra means using a slip solution to move film around during installation. This solution can over-spray to surrounding panels and glass. How will those areas be addressed. That's why it's important to wash vehicle first so the whole car is clean and a final detail spray wipe down can be done without rubbing dirt into areas and scratching paint on surrounding panels.
4. Can you stop by the shop and see examples of the work? When doing so, examine the edges of panels where film starts/ends. Look for symmetry between right and left side of vehicle. Examine if cutouts such as tow hook and washer nozzles on bumper or gas door on fender, parking sensor holes, are symmetrical. Often times, a sign of an inexperienced installer is seen when a circular edge of film around headlight washer nozzles looks more elongated or stretched due to improper positioning. Some variance is OK as nothing it perfect. But an egg-shaped opening around circular parking sensor or headlight washer nozzles, not so much. Also pay close attention to which edges of panels are being wrapped around. You want as few exposed edges of film as possible for durability.
5. If an installer charges more than other installers in the area, ask why and what's included. You may be surprised by the answer. Experience, coverage, technique, pre/post installation routine, etc. are not the same from shop to shop. When a shop says "we'll wrap edges of film" specifically ask which edges. You want as few exposed edges as possible for long-term durability. Exposed edges leave the edge of film susceptible to dirt or wax/polish residue. You can only clean exposed edges so much before that edge simply looks worn and entire piece may need to be replaced or trimmed back with a blade. Focus on value, not on price.
6. Is installer insured? Who's the carrier and how much is coverage? Major carriers such as State Farm will cost more, but your peace-of-mind when a claim should ever be filed is well worth the premium. Ask to see policy.
7. Post on social forums, such as here, and see the references for the shops being recommended on their social media/website.
Hope that helps
#283
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+1
Realistic expectations are needed. I'm sorry - but PPF is palpable and visible (to varying degrees). Marketing fluff about this stuff being 100% invisible is complete BS. Modern films are awesome and are "practically" clear, but acting like there is no difference is misleading.
Realistic expectations are needed. I'm sorry - but PPF is palpable and visible (to varying degrees). Marketing fluff about this stuff being 100% invisible is complete BS. Modern films are awesome and are "practically" clear, but acting like there is no difference is misleading.
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#284