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I strongly agree with the above. The 2k soft break-in is silly. I'm not sure if it's still the case but it used to be that the recommendation was only in the North American owners manual.
If anything, lugging the engine at too low an RPM is what you don't want to do early on. I do still go easy for 600 miles, but you might not even need that much. AP has mentioned his ideal procedure. Basically adding revs every 100 miles for the first 800 miles, which feels about right. To the above posts point, none of it likely matters for longevity in a tangible way. You can probably bang it off the limiter right from the jump.
It’s actually a little more than that. Here’s the recipe that I used and it mirrors what AP has said publicly they do at Weissach. I just converted to miles and rounded a bit. No idea what they actually do privately:
More important to me was bedding the Ceramics, which I did using this and have had zero issues over 7k miles. Not a squeak or squeal, and I drive her ‘very spiritedly’ four hours at a time out here in Hill Country.
I strongly agree with the above. The 2k soft break-in is silly. I'm not sure if it's still the case but it used to be that the recommendation was only in the North American owners manual.
If anything, lugging the engine at too low an RPM is what you don't want to do early on. I do still go easy for 600 miles, but you might not even need that much. AP has mentioned his ideal procedure. Basically adding revs every 100 miles for the first 600 miles, which feels about right. To the above posts point, none of it likely matters for longevity in a tangible way. You can probably bang it off the limiter right from the jump.
my car had 126 miles on it when i got, demo miles. i ripped her day one and took her up to angeles crest day 2 and went as hard as i could. she's fine. they aren't meant to be babied and are so sophisticated in terms of engine management that if anything were to go wrong its a production defect, not anything you did.
It’s uncanny how similar that is to the philosophy of the T. Lightweight glass, buckets, etc. the only options that weren’t offered on the T stateside were A/C delete and stereo delete, which let’s face it...not many are that hard core or live in a area that could deal without that luxury. It also made me think, are there really any other ways to drop weight in these cars? The RS has magnesium wheels but that’s about it.
Cant go wrong either way. As someone who was in that spot, I can tell you that you'll never think about the R53 again...
so you've taken that path before... I've had my fair share of JDM, Hondas, Evos, and now the R35. This will be my first Porsche if ever. I took a look at a 997.2 GT3 yesterday, sat in the cockpit but something did not feel right. Maybe just got used to the size of the R35. I'm now leaning towards the T.
so you've taken that path before... I've had my fair share of JDM, Hondas, Evos, and now the R35. This will be my first Porsche if ever. I took a look at a 997.2 GT3 yesterday, sat in the cockpit but something did not feel right. Maybe just got used to the size of the R35. I'm now leaning towards the T.
Very similar path. FBO R35. Sledgehammer. My T is my first Porsche as well. Scalpel. 100% hooked.
First and foremost I needed to get back to three pedals. And was tired of getting sentras for loaners, if I got a loaner. 1 test drive is all it took for me to remember what being engaged as a driver was all about. 13 mos into ownership, very satisfied with the car, company, and community. Another bonus, less maintenance/services...and they're actually cheaper.
Are the "leather" portions of the seats in the T real leather, or synthetic?
Trying to determine what I want to use to protect them. Thinking 303 or Vinylex if synthetic. Something else if real leather, which I assume they are not.
I’m in the UK and mine are leather. But the leather interior was standard UK spec for the T. Does yours have the leather interior, including the top of the dashboard and doors etc?
06-10-2020, 05:48 PM
