Joec500

Yup I checked if it was still enabled. I needed to pull the Fuse for PCM to fully reset the CANBUS unit. As it's attached via constant 12v and requires a hard reset after the update. It worked after I did this.

ZedZed

Do your door speakers have a BOSE logo on them? Do you have two orange wires coming from your quadlock connector?

ratt359

That's really odd (I didn't have these issues) but I'm glad you've got it working.

ZedZed

Good tip. @andy2111 @ratt359 Did we cover that in the guide?

andy2111

I'm adding it to the latest draft now

@Joec500 My Chstek is still in its box so I can't validate this, but the Canbus box power connector (2 white white/black wires) goes to the Head unit for its power, so pulling the quadlock should cut the power to the HU and to the Canbox? Just trying to see if there's a simpler reset procedure that might be easier for some people comparered to pulling a fuse?

sletcher

Just a quick question. Most of the installations thus far have been BOSE/MOST configurations. Has there been a successful “Base” installation yet? We have one member that’s having difficulty getting any sound from his base stereo.

sletcher

I searched Potxloi’s profile and found this picture of his interior. No BOSE badge on the door.

andy2111

So I have a non Bose setup and have it working fine with an Erisin unit. My Chstek is sitting in the box waiting for me to install it. I'll update here but I doubt it'll be this weekend

sletcher

I have mine as well, but won’t have the opportunity to install it until the 29th or so. Non-BOSE


And Thank you to everyone for their contributions and expertise. Great thread and community.

potxoli

Yes, definitely don't have bose, Thanks for checking! So I'm not near the car, but I had this thought in the middle of the night that I never connect the harness that has all the RCA outs for an amplifier to the unit. Maybe that needs to be there and possibly the harness for the quad connector has some RCA ins? I'm going to see if that is the case later today.

andy2111

In theory the quadlock connector outputs the sound to the non Bose amplifier. That's how the Erisin works, but it's worth trying what you suggest...

Joec500

you could def pull the quad lock but in my situation I had already put the dash back together so pulling the fuse in the left kick panel was much easier.

ZedZed

We haven't come full circle back to the 'amp wake-up trigger' thing, have we? Like you, the Erisin in our Cayman worked right out of the box with the non-Bose sound setup in that car, but I have read of some needing to connect an amp trigger to power on the OEM amp. On some harnesses I have seen there is a wire marked for that purpose. The original PCM controlled the amp wake-up signal (the idea being, I guess, that if the amp was always powered it would soon drain the battery) so the aftermarket unit needs something to do the same. In the Erisin, it seems that this is included in the quadlock connections, but may not be in the CHSTEK?

Here's the pinout diagram for the PCM 3.1:




I assume that in the Erisin unit the pins indicated above for front and rear speaker outputs are replicated? One would also assume that the CHSTEK followed suit? Pin 16 needs to be wired on the CHSTEK to wake up the amp. If it isn't, then any switched (red) 12V+ ACC wire will do the same job.

@andy2111 will soon find out when he installs his CHSTEK unit.

Not sure if any of this post is relevant, but it might spark an idea in someone.

potxoli

well I tried connecting audio out L/R to the harness of the quad connectors which are labeled aux in and that didn’t work. I also tried connecting the connectors labeled aux to each other, but no luck. I’m out of ideas

ZedZed

Needs to be other way around - audio OUT from the HU. But on non-Bose units the speaker connections are in the quadlock (see diagram above). The FL/FR, RL/RR outputs go directly to the amplifier. I am wondering if your amp has received the wake-up signal? Do you know where the amp is? Often under the passenger seat. If you can access it and you have a DMM or a 12v probe you could perhaps check to see if it has power?