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I just got back to my car. I decided to connect the REVERSE labeled line to the Rear Camera line. My thinking is that this is my trigger wire to tell the head unit the camera is on. At first nothing happened, then I went into the menu and charged the REVERSE FUNCTION SWITCH. Then the camera came on and powered to those wires got hot. But it only lasted for a few minutes, and now I can't get power to either of those two reverse camera wires regardless of the menu setting. I'm assuming this box needs to be unchecked in the menu, but it doesn't seem to be making a difference now. I'm baffled as to why there is no power on these two wires with car in reverse and key on.
I just got back to my car. I decided to connect the REVERSE labeled line to the Rear Camera line. My thinking is that this is my trigger wire to tell the head unit the camera is on. At first nothing happened, then I went into the menu and charged the REVERSE FUNCTION SWITCH. Then the camera came on and powered to those wires got hot. But it only lasted for a few minutes, and now I can't get power to either of those two reverse camera wires regardless of the menu setting. I'm assuming this box needs to be unchecked in the menu, but it doesn't seem to be making a difference now. I'm baffled as to why there is no power on these two wires with car in reverse and key on.
Maybe it is just me but looks like in the picture you are connecting the reverse lead from the to the video feed line of your camera.
My aftermarket camera with the following wires
If you look closely you can see a red wire that is unterminated coming out of the video plug. I did not use this wire, I just taped it up, it was called trigger. The notes on Amazon said this about the trigger wire:
"*If your head unit with a reverse triggering wire, normally it is a pink color wire, please find it, and connect it with the extension wire's triggering wire wel (small short red wire next to the RCA/AV connector)."
I used the red and black wires in the bottom of the picture. The red wire was connected to the reverse camera line from the HU and the black wire went to ground. This worked with both the Ersin and Chstek HUs.
I'm not totally sure what you mean because of what I think is a typo, but I took a guess and tried connecting only the reverse line out of the HU to the red carrier line on the RCA cable which is connected to the red line of the camera red/black combo wire, and black to ground. Nothing happens.
The only way I can get the camera lights to come on is connect an outside power source to the camera. When I do that, the camera lights come on, but there's still no camera image.
This video makes the most sense to me. The problem is, in not seeing any output power from the HU.
If I connect a good power source from the HU to that red power line in the RCA line, the camera came on! But it's on full time regardless of being in reverse or not. Also, the settings require the check-box as shown.
Finished it! Solution: tap into the blue with black stripe backup light wire in the trunk to connect to the red power wire that's in both the RCA and in the camera wire. At the HU that same red wire connects to the green trigger wire in order for the unit to know the car is in reverse and the camera is on. I think I would not have had to do that if the head unit camera power wire was putting out power like it is supposed to. But I was determined to get it working without waiting for a warranty replacement from China.
Finished it! Solution: tap into the blue with black stripe backup light wire in the trunk to connect to the red power wire that's in both the RCA and in the camera wire. At the HU that same red wire connects to the green trigger wire in order for the unit to know the car is in reverse and the camera is on. I think I would not have had to do that if the head unit camera power wire was putting out power like it is supposed to. But I was determined to get it working without waiting for a warranty replacement from China.
Tomorrow, a test drive may be in order 🚗😁
ahhh yah, you need that reverse light trigger from the Rear BCM. I went through the same thing in a previous post.
I have been very pleased with the Apple CarPlay upgrade for my 991.1 GTS. It works like a charm - with one exception. The speaker is distorted, meaning, when Siri speaks, it is distorted. And when the voice speaks for directions with Google Maps, it is barely audible. Does anyone know of a fix for this? The speaker within the 991.1 was not designed for CarPlay, so I cannot say that I am entirely surprised that it sounds this way, but it sure would be nice to address this issue. Otherwise, wow, what a game changer it is having CarPlay in the 991.1!
I have been very pleased with the Apple CarPlay upgrade for my 991.1 GTS. It works like a charm - with one exception. The speaker is distorted, meaning, when Siri speaks, it is distorted. And when the voice speaks for directions with Google Maps, it is barely audible. Does anyone know of a fix for this? The speaker within the 991.1 was not designed for CarPlay, so I cannot say that I am entirely surprised that it sounds this way, but it sure would be nice to address this issue. Otherwise, wow, what a game changer it is having CarPlay in the 991.1!
I have been very pleased with the Apple CarPlay upgrade for my 991.1 GTS. It works like a charm - with one exception. The speaker is distorted, meaning, when Siri speaks, it is distorted. And when the voice speaks for directions with Google Maps, it is barely audible. Does anyone know of a fix for this? The speaker within the 991.1 was not designed for CarPlay, so I cannot say that I am entirely surprised that it sounds this way, but it sure would be nice to address this issue. Otherwise, wow, what a game changer it is having CarPlay in the 991.1!
If you look back through the post you will see i had a very similar issue with the Ersin HU (post #1858). I have now installed the Chstek HU and do not have the issue.
With that said I have the Bose system and the one thing I did not do before I installed the Ersin HU was crank the volume of my PCM 3.1 to 75%. When I removed the Ersin unit I reinstalled my PCM 3.1 and cranked it to ~75% and then powered off the PCM 3.1. I then installed the Chstek HU. I can tell you that the volume level of 1 on the Chstek HU is much louder than it was on the Ersin HU. Also now my Siri volume for texts and maps is much louder and usable. My point is if you have the Bose system make sure you crank the PCM 3.1 to 75% and power it off before you remove the PCM 3.1. There is no doubt the issue could be with the Ersin unit but since no one was complaining about it I have a feeling it may be related to my last remembered Bose Amp settings. This is not 100% scientific as I did not reinstall the Ersin unit after cranking the PCM to 75%.
I read that with Bose you should switch to a silent source (ie, Aux) and turn the volume up to the max, then power off the unit (with the long press of the volume button) and then remove the PCM. The reason for this is that the Bose remembers the last volume.
My issue now is fine tuning the volume differences between music from my phone's apps like Sirius vs the car's radio vs the NAV. Streaming Sirius over AA is not as loud as play FM. I did notice a NAV volume inside of settings but it doesn't seem to make a difference, or not much.
QUESTION: Is there a way to set the NAV volume separately from the stereo's volume? All my OEM HU's allow for this. If I'm driving and I turn the music volume to 0, then when the NAV prompt goes off that is also at 0. This is assuming I'm using Waze or Maps from my phone. My way around this so far is to pause Sirius but leave the volume up. But I'd prefer having separate control over Nav volume like in my other cars.
I read that with Bose you should switch to a silent source (ie, Aux) and turn the volume up to the max, then power off the unit (with the long press of the volume button) and then remove the PCM. The reason for this is that the Bose remembers the last volume.
My issue now is fine tuning the volume differences between music from my phone's apps like Sirius vs the car's radio vs the NAV. Streaming Sirius over AA is not as loud as play FM. I did notice a NAV volume inside of settings but it doesn't seem to make a difference, or not much.
QUESTION: Is there a way to set the NAV volume separately from the stereo's volume? All my OEM HU's allow for this. If I'm driving and I turn the music volume to 0, then when the NAV prompt goes off that is also at 0. This is assuming I'm using Waze or Maps from my phone. My way around this so far is to pause Sirius but leave the volume up. But I'd prefer having separate control over Nav volume like in my other cars.
Thoughts?
The volume control on the HU is a 'master' volume control so if you set it to 0 then there won't be any sound from any source. There are separate volume/gain controls in the settings for different sources and you can experiment with these. Note that you may find settings for volume in more than one place, so search all the menus, including the Factory menu behind the passcode. Waze also has an independent volume control in its own app settings so that will let you do more fine tuning of the navigation volume. If you are using apps on the phone, then you will need to adjust their volumes in the phone media settings. The problem the HU has is that we are using multiple sources and inputs but only have a single master volume control. If you feed a huge signal into the HU from, say, Spotify and a tiny signal in from your podcast app, the HU just applies the gain determined by the setting of the master control to both, so inevitably one will be louder than the other. Ideall you need to gain-match all the different sources. Best bet is to find all those menus that affect the volume and play around with them until you are happy. You may never get it to be perfect but my experience is that you can adjust so that there are not massive differences between sources.
05-24-2024, 05:19 PM
