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Thank you! My ceiling height is tight and is something I was really careful when specing everything.
I had to shift the garage rail higher to maximize height. The lowest point is to the garage door in the up position which is about 107”-109”. The bendpak lift has preset safety stops and the one that I use leaves about 51” underneath the lift and about 51-52” above it. I think this might fit the GT3 if I lower it a smidge. My hope was to be able to fit a project car there like a first gen NSX so I think I should be able to fit two low toys on the lift side.
The lift took a while to get here (actually over a year) because I wanted it painted white to better match my garage aesthetic. Next steps are to improve lighting a bit and to mount my pneumatic hose reel.
Originally Posted by bighitbiker3
love the look. What’s your ceiling height in there? Can you fit the gt3 under the Mazda?
Thank you! My ceiling height is tight and is something I was really careful when specing everything.
I had to shift the garage rail higher to maximize height. The lowest point is to the garage door in the up position which is about 107”-109”. The bendpak lift has preset safety stops and the one that I use leaves about 51” underneath the lift and about 51-52” above it. I think this might fit the GT3 if I lower it a smidge. My hope was to be able to fit a project car there like a first gen NSX so I think I should be able to fit two low toys on the lift side.
The lift took a while to get here (actually over a year) because I wanted it painted white to better match my garage aesthetic. Next steps are to improve lighting a bit and to mount my pneumatic hose reel.
Making steady progress: We did end up moving the in floor heating tubes in the areas where lifts are being installed or contemplated. Also installed deeper channels for concrete and re-bar support of lifts and where the 18 ft tall Texaco sign will go. All in floor electrical/air lines/plumbing are being finished and inspected today for finally starting the concrete floor ours on Monday. It looks like a three section pour because of limited labor availability.
In other good news, I have found a concrete polisher that did a friends garage and it came out like this:
Shiny, but not slippery because of the silica grit in the sealer. He loves it and says it is impervious to his automotive mayhem...
Looks amazing mate - Do the polish - it will enable you to put some tile down where needed - just make sure he uses glass/silica to keep that non slip!
Making steady progress: We did end up moving the in floor heating tubes in the areas where lifts are being installed or contemplated. Also installed deeper channels for concrete and re-bar support of lifts and where the 18 ft tall Texaco sign will go. All in floor electrical/air lines/plumbing are being finished and inspected today for finally starting the concrete floor ours on Monday. It looks like a three section pour because of limited labor availability.
In other good news, I have found a concrete polisher that did a friends garage and it came out like this:
Shiny, but not slippery because of the silica grit in the sealer. He loves it and says it is impervious to his automotive mayhem...
Off to COTA...
Impressive project! I love the polished floor as well!
Any concerns about the long term reliability of that system? Radiant heat is amazing, how well do they perform over time?
You have a lot of doorways that create “re-entrant” corners in your concrete slab. There will be cracks that form in those areas and I suggest speaking with your concrete contractor about how to mitigate that. Or at least let them crack in a controlled way so it won’t be unsightly.
You have a lot of doorways that create “re-entrant” corners in your concrete slab. There will be cracks that form in those areas and I suggest speaking with your concrete contractor about how to mitigate that. Or at least let them crack in a controlled way so it won’t be unsightly.
Prescient observation:
1. Because of the extreme temperature variations in this location. the entire slab has 1/2" expansion strips on the perimeter of the building. The top foam piece of the expansion strip is removed and the gap is filled with an elastomeric caulk for a finished look and excellent crack mitigation.
2. The unheated exterior patios and entry aprons will also be isolated from the building with similar expansion strips and saw cuts every 8'.
3. The interior slab will be cross cut per the engineers specs, but I do not have that information at my fingertips. Again, the cuts will be filled before finishing.
Any other techniques you are knowledgeable of for crack mitigation will be read with interest and given consideration.
1. Because of the extreme temperature variations in this location. the entire slab has 1/2" expansion strips on the perimeter of the building. The top foam piece of the expansion strip is removed and the gap is filled with an elastomeric caulk for a finished look and excellent crack mitigation.
2. The unheated exterior patios and entry aprons will also be isolated from the building with similar expansion strips and saw cuts every 8'.
3. The interior slab will be cross cut per the engineers specs, but I do not have that information at my fingertips. Again, the cuts will be filled before finishing.
Any other techniques you are knowledgeable of for crack mitigation will be read with interest and given consideration.
Thanks!
You’re on it. Be sure the concrete crew uses hats or tents that will prevent the rebar or steel mesh from dropping to the bottom of the slab - and be rendered useless.
10-20-2021, 01:12 AM
