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Orthojoe's track build journal

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Old 04-08-2015 | 08:33 AM
  #721  
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On track they are fine but I'd change them before going to the track.
Old 04-08-2015 | 10:18 AM
  #722  
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Originally Posted by the_vetman
I know "they" all tell you to change when the pad thickness is same as the backing plate. This is fine and good advice for the general trackie who rarely - if ever - checks brake pads over the entire event, but I can tell you from experience that you can run them for much longer AS LONG AS you're willing to watch +/- change them like a hawk after each session.
I've been advised that you shouldn't run the pads too low because the brake pad acts as insulation and when it gets thin more heat is generated. Therefore change pads early so the brakes run cooler. Is there any truth to this?
Old 04-08-2015 | 10:36 AM
  #723  
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The calipers discolor and seals burn off anyways if you run them long and hard enough.. These calipers where 10 days old running steel rotors....

You see it less on reds but they eventually will turn more and more brown.
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Old 04-08-2015 | 01:58 PM
  #724  
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Originally Posted by devenh
I've been advised that you shouldn't run the pads too low because the brake pad acts as insulation and when it gets thin more heat is generated. Therefore change pads early so the brakes run cooler. Is there any truth to this?
There is some truth to that although I think it gets blown out of proportion. If you have good brake ducts and high temp brake fluid you should be fine. IOW, I've never boiled my brake fluids because I ran my pads too thin. In fact, I've never boiled my brake fluids (90 DE days) and that includes Super Blue which is not well regarded among hardcore trackies.
Old 04-08-2015 | 06:14 PM
  #725  
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Given the amount of heat, I find it hard to believe a couple extra mm of pad would make a difference in heat dispersion.
Old 04-09-2015 | 02:30 AM
  #726  
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Originally Posted by devenh
I've been advised that you shouldn't run the pads too low because the brake pad acts as insulation and when it gets thin more heat is generated. Therefore change pads early so the brakes run cooler. Is there any truth to this?
do they also sell pads?





it does have some truth. but you aren't winning lemans.

reter, your caliper discolor and seals break after that many days?
i only need 2 session to do that damaage. i can show u on your RS
Old 04-09-2015 | 07:25 AM
  #727  
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It was actually 4 but I'm averaging as if less insane.
Old 04-09-2015 | 09:14 AM
  #728  
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One question to the track junckie if your don't mind!

I have 9400kms on the car now and about 5 track days.
I guess my pads (originals) are almost dead and I am asking myself a question:

Do I need to replace the rotor as well or it can last longer?

I start as well to get some small cracks on the drills on the rotor maybe 1 or 2mm.


A good advice will be welcome!


Thank you guys
Old 04-09-2015 | 11:25 AM
  #729  
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Originally Posted by the-missile
One question to the track junckie if your don't mind!

I have 9400kms on the car now and about 5 track days.
I guess my pads (originals) are almost dead and I am asking myself a question:

Do I need to replace the rotor as well or it can last longer?

I start as well to get some small cracks on the drills on the rotor maybe 1 or 2mm.


A good advice will be welcome!


Thank you guys
Rotors should outlast the pads. You do not need to change both at the same time. Little small cracks in the rotors are not a reason to change rotors. If they extend out to the edge of the rotor, connect 2 holes, or are wide enough to catch your nail (rough rule), then you should change them.

Last edited by orthojoe; 04-09-2015 at 07:06 PM. Reason: mixed up pads and rotors
Old 04-09-2015 | 06:41 PM
  #730  
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^ Pretty sure you meant "rotors should outlast the pads"
Old 04-09-2015 | 06:50 PM
  #731  
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
Pads should outlast the rotors. You do not need to change both at the same time. Little small cracks in the rotors are not a reason to change rotors. If they extend out to the edge of the rotor, connect 2 holes, or are wide enough to catch your nail (rough rule), then you should change them.
Originally Posted by _BrakeDust_
^ Pretty sure you meant "rotors should outlast the pads"
thanks for the answer guys, your feedback is appreciated.

basically, two sets of pads for a rotor is a good reference or not?
Old 04-09-2015 | 06:52 PM
  #732  
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Yes, sounds aboutvright
Old 04-09-2015 | 07:06 PM
  #733  
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Originally Posted by _BrakeDust_
^ Pretty sure you meant "rotors should outlast the pads"
Whoops!! You're right. I screwed up. Sorry about that. Too early in the am to post, I guess.
Old 04-09-2015 | 07:23 PM
  #734  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Yes, sounds aboutvright
Originally Posted by orthojoe
Whoops!! You're right. I screwed up. Sorry about that. Too early in the am to post, I guess.
Thanks for your reply guys!
Old 04-09-2015 | 07:28 PM
  #735  
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Originally Posted by orthojoe
Rotors should outlast the pads. You do not need to change both at the same time. Little small cracks in the rotors are not a reason to change rotors. If they extend out to the edge of the rotor, connect 2 holes, or are wide enough to catch your nail (rough rule), then you should change them.
From my development manager at HAWK- don't change drilled rotors unless they are below minimum thickness OR the cracks are so bad you actually feel them while braking. Everything else is a waste of a rotor. So I asked what if the cracks meet between holes- "Don't worry, use up the rotor. If you feel it then change." FYI, YMMV, but HAWK is in the racing and brake business and I assume that they know what they are doing. Of course this is for track day users, not competitors as I know a lot of Cup racers change rotors as a matter of schedule rather than actual wear.


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