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u r absolutely right. but i am a slow learner. thought it was my brutal strength or lack of technique that killed the bar. so i had to buy 4 and bend all of them to learn it's not my Zeus strength.
In my case, the torque multiplier train has left the station....
Even more likely reason: the 997.2 GT3 has a steering wheel lock when the key is removed from the ignition. If the wheels are turned slightly, they lock up. The 991 GT3 doesn't have a steering lock. I can turn the wheel fully both directions with no key in the ignition.
That must be the issue then. Can you lift the car by the rear point and the front wheel on that side lifts a bit off the ground allowing wheel removal clearance while the left front is remaining on the ground ? if not then it sounds like two people may be in order for the fronts. Another option is to buy a steering wheel anti theft lock perhaps to lock the wheel ? I'm not sure if it would work with our steering wheels or not (paddles)...
One other option, with the front wheels lifted, perhaps there is a way to build up a platform(wheel ramp) high enough under the opposite wheel and wedge something between it and the tire to lock the steering so to speak.
It could be technique but also maybe the EM steering in the 991 offers less resistance to turning with the engine off than the hydraulic rack in the 997.2. Even more likely reason: the 997.2 GT3 has a steering wheel lock when the key is removed from the ignition. If the wheels are turned slightly, they lock up. The 991 GT3 doesn't have a steering lock. I can turn the wheel fully both directions with no key in the ignition.
Bingo, no steering lock, you'll need somebody to hold the steering wheel. I think I noticed this on the 981 cayman when swapping wheels, and didn't realize what was happening.
When changing the front wheels do not lift both sides,just lift one side and let the other sit on the ground.
Use this for the wheel that is sitting on the ground :
"
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I haven't personally tried it but I believe it should work.
All great comments guys! Yeah no steering lock! But, just because I was bored (NOT) I removed all the wheels and put the stocks
back on (a story for another thread coming to a theater near you).
This time I had to do it myself because my wife was not home. Anywho, I used some various
home wheel chocks. This did the trick. So, do you absolutely need someone to hold the steering
wheel? No. Is it a lot easier if someone does? Heck yeah.
Also, my spreader bar is 31", don't probably need all that, but what the heck.
I'm going to buy some nice wheel chocks to have instead of my Rube Goldberg
setup. Also, I have a finished floor which is somewhat smooth. This also exacerbated
my wheel turning issue. Also the bar is long and it doesn't take much force to cause
the wheels to turn. One thing to always remember, don't forget to back off the bolt a 1/4
turn and re-torque. It the heat of the moment, it can be easy to forget.
Very clever, Rob! I'll try something similar if my wife isn't available.
On the spreader, I have the exact same one. It does measure 31", but it is actually advertised as a 24" for those who are looking to buy one. I think that's because even though in spreading configuration it will accommodate 30"+ as a clamp it will only do 24".
Hadn't even thought about the front wheels turning from the steering on the 991 GT3. Personally never had an issue with 997.2 TTS. I was always a little gun-shy about a multiplier so tried to make sure I was torqueing in a vertical plane parallel to the longitudinal axis of the car as much as possible. Don't remember steering column ever locking on me. I did modify my technique a couple times and eventually torqued only from an angle of about 30 degrees from horizontal (always less than 45 degrees) as it helped me maintain my vertical force orientation.
Another thing to try if not using a multiplier is to use a longer lever arm. Won't need as much down force to get the same torque value. Trade-off here may be you still need a second person to ensure you have the ratchet head properly on the center bolt.
... waiting to hear additional results from others as they tackle the job ...
The Castrol Optimol Paste TA which is used to grease the CL parts is apparently now only available by special order from Germany. So says Suncoast who delayed delivery of my order until Jan 21 and my dealer who also says they would have to order it.
Fortunately I still have some of the original Porsche branded optimoly paste, but just thought I'd mention this so others can get an order in if they think they'll need it down the road.
I wanted to follow up on this. Despite the original message from Suncoast saying my grease would be delayed until Jan 21, I got another e-mail today saying it had shipped. No idea what's going on, but thought I'd share with others who might have ordered the stuff or were planning to.
I think I may have mentioned this before but you really don't need to regrease the CL everytime you remove the wheel which will save you lots of time and eliminate the potential mess. This tip came while observing my local Porsche dealer changing my wheels on 2 separate occasions. They only inspected the grease and indicated if found not dry or not dirty or not completely gone they would not apply any fresh grease and just reinstalled the wheels while keeping the original grease that was applied at factory and this has been the case for the past 3 wheels & tires changes in the past 10 months. I don't think we need to go overboard with the grease unless the situation merits a fresh grease application, thus saving you time and effort.
On a separate note and while looking at the precision centering tool, it appears to be a very simple tool. As some of you aware, I own a manufacturing company with full machine shop, so I was thinking about making my own tool which I am estimating will at be at least half of the cost of what is being advertised if not less. If some one is willing to lend me the tool for few days, I will take it to our machinist and have him make me a similar tool and can return it back to you in few days. In addition I will verify the cost to make such a tool and if indeed the cost savings are significant as I initially expected, we can run a batch of these for all GT3 Rennlist owners who are interested, and I will offer them at my cost, and pass the saving to you. Please let me know if any of you are interested in this offer. Again I am not interested in making these on regular basis or to make money, but rather a one time thing, just to help you guys out cut the cost down. Please let me know if there is an interest. Mark
Just do what some of the 997 guys did. They converted from street CL to Cup car CL. Just instal air jacks and with a bottle of nitrogen and a thunder gun you'll be changing tires in seconds, not minutes!
Just do what some of the 997 guys did. They converted from street CL to Cup car CL. Just instal air jacks and with a bottle of nitrogen and a thunder gun you'll be changing tires in seconds, not minutes!
12-12-2014, 05:13 AM
