GrantG

I might agree, if not for the awful aluminum paste that gets all over everything (and attention that must be paid to prevent the front wheels from rotating or turning while wrenching)...

PiB993

My perspective is from a single car driving to the track with limited space. I'm not removing wheels at the track - just checking to make sure they are torqued on correctly. How destructive is it to check a wheel to make sure it's to torqued when it's not in the air? Not removing just tightening.

Alternatively, I do nothing. Maybe remove the wheel caps and make sure the locking mech is sprung all the way out after each session.

But yeah after thinking about it - you guys are right the Porsche system is simpler by not having to deal with that removable silver disk lock.

Wind911

With the locking pin properly engaged it’s impossible for the nut to get loose. So no need to re-check toque provided you torqued it correctly.

tubwreck

^^^ This

rcg412

I feel the grease is the only issue. If you don’t get enough/right amount of grease the wheels tend to click. It’s not hurting anything but annoying.

otherwise I think a pretty slick system

GrantG

BTW, don't do this between sessions at the track with a 5-lug car either (only torque when mounting a wheel). You see people in the paddock all the time torquing their wheels after they come off the track or before going out again. This is a recipe for over-torquing (particularly when hot from the track). Just torque when mounting and forget it.

If you're OCD about it, you can convince yourself that nothing is loose. But if you keep re-torquing with increasing temperature this is more dangerous than helpful.

PiB993

^ I have always been told to check them when cold. Like right before the next session (40-60mins) or after lunch. Never found a loose one I'll admit.

afridi

I'm sure I saw that device in Med-school.

srwhitman

Cleaning and re-greasing Center Lock nuts - how?

I was told by a shop to do it and I can't figure out how to get the darn nut apart. There is a metal ring that seems to hold the whole thing together but its down low and it would seem you somehow have to pop everything else off.

I was told you don't have to completely clean/re-grease very often (but apparently 1x or 2x/year and I've had my car 3 years and probably 25 track days and haven't done it yet). I cleaned off by spraying with Goof Off which mostly cleaned it from the outside but the instructions for greasing talks about 7 places to put grease! Now I'm worried that if I don't fully take apart. I don't have grease where it belongs.

GrantG

You can separate the bolt by smacking it on a piece of wood.

GTSMeister

@GrantG is right. You smack it on a piece of wood and the circlip and cone ring will drop out. Then follow the sheet you referenced. I just clean off the old grease with shop towels and scoop out most of the grease in the three holes on the cone ring. I would avoid any solvent in the cleaning process.

The part missing from that sheet is when you need to do this service. That's in the service manual and it says this:

Generally, there is no need to regrease the inside of the bolt, except in the following situations:
- A very high or very low torque is required to loosen the wheel bolt (more than 700 Nm/518 ftlb. or less than 400 Nm/296 ftlb.).
- In the event of a jerking, fluctuating tightening torque.
- If you feel any stiffness or stipslick effect when turning the cone ring for the wheel bolt by hand (cone ring turns back and forward). Apply a certain amount of pressure when checking (turning the cone ring to the wheel bolt)

srwhitman

Thanks.

The mechanic who I talked to (when I was at COTA) said that he uses brake cleaner to clean. So I'm assuming he went as far as to clean/re-grease the whole thing.

GrantG

WD-40 is a good cleaner - cuts through the grease well

FourT6and2

I kept a center lock nut as a paperweight from my last GT3. Dropped it into an ultrasonic cleaner. 5 minutes later... totally clean. If you're gonna actually use it on the car, though, I'd disassemble and make sure it's totally dry afterward.

GrantG

And of course you would want to add grease inside too (except on wide flat washer)…