Centerlock Wheel Installation Comments
12-07-2014, 11:43 PM
#121
Three Wheelin'
Porsche includes a little tool for this now. It is kept inside the nut/cap tool for the CL.
12-07-2014, 11:46 PM
#122
Race Director
Don't have my car yet. But that was the trick I used on my 997.2, also a bolt head the right size would also work. The 991 GT3, manual shows a included tool, that can be used to pop the caps off (before Porsche suggested a screwdriver with rag) and the other end of the tool has the hex head to pop the lock out. Do you have this tool? I would expect it's stored with the socket.
12-08-2014, 12:22 AM
#123
Racer
Thread Starter
12-08-2014, 12:32 AM
#124
Rennlist Member
Cup car parts are always available but uprights, bearings, locks, it costs quite some $. Yet a lot of folks who care about their neck did this on 997 rs cars and here it is also doable. Costs a lot, of course, but doable.
12-08-2014, 02:00 AM
#125
so to sum up, all I will need is the precision 3/4" torque wrench? I have ordered the car with iron rotors, so not critical to get the centering tool? Also, does the car come with the CL socket?
12-08-2014, 02:07 AM
#126
My understanding is you just need the PI wrench and the special grease. I don't plan on buying the centering tool either since I'll have the iron rotors as well.
12-08-2014, 02:07 AM
#127
Race Director
Even with 5 lug wheels and iron rotors I liked using the screw in assembly aids; it just made positioning the wheels easier. But the centering tool isn't essential with CI rotors, especially for $300+. Yes, the car does come with the CL socket.
12-09-2014, 05:03 PM
#128
Race Director
Another question after watching paver's terrific video again.
I'm curious, paver, if you or others feel it's necessary every time to disassemble the central wheel bolt itself and re-grease the internal parts as is shown at about the 4:00 mark of the video. The Porsche spec says that "generally, there is no need to re-grease the inside of the bolt" except in cases where "very high or very low torque is required to loosen the bolt", "in the event of a jerking, fluctuating tightening torque", or "if you feel any stiffness or slip-stick effect when turning the cone ring for the wheel bolt by hand". Is it just being extra-safe to always do it?
For it's part, the owner's manual doesn't mention disassembly of the wheel bolt at all in the wheel changing procedure so I'm interested in people's thoughts on this.
12-09-2014, 05:20 PM
#129
Nordschleife Master
997 centerlock wheel procedure - YouTube
Another question after watching paver's terrific video again.
I'm curious, paver, if you or others feel it's necessary every time to disassemble the central wheel bolt itself and re-grease the internal parts as is shown at about the 4:00 mark of the video. The Porsche spec says that "generally, there is no need to re-grease the inside of the bolt" except in cases where "very high or very low torque is required to loosen the bolt", "in the event of a jerking, fluctuating tightening torque", or "if you feel any stiffness or slip-stick effect when turning the cone ring for the wheel bolt by hand". Is it just being extra-safe to always do it?
For it's part, the owner's manual doesn't mention disassembly of the wheel bolt at all in the wheel changing procedure so I'm interested in people's thoughts on this.
Another question after watching paver's terrific video again.
I'm curious, paver, if you or others feel it's necessary every time to disassemble the central wheel bolt itself and re-grease the internal parts as is shown at about the 4:00 mark of the video. The Porsche spec says that "generally, there is no need to re-grease the inside of the bolt" except in cases where "very high or very low torque is required to loosen the bolt", "in the event of a jerking, fluctuating tightening torque", or "if you feel any stiffness or slip-stick effect when turning the cone ring for the wheel bolt by hand". Is it just being extra-safe to always do it?
For it's part, the owner's manual doesn't mention disassembly of the wheel bolt at all in the wheel changing procedure so I'm interested in people's thoughts on this.
I just got my Rennline wheel guide today (Delrin) and the PI wrench kit will be in soon. Of course my car isn't here yet though...
12-09-2014, 05:47 PM
#130
Race Director
Spreader for the brakes, centering tool, and grease are on their way; I have everything else. I don't need to remove the wheels to lube the front springs to eliminate the wooooing sound, but that's going to be my excuse to do it anyway. Oh, and have to wait until Xmas. Told my wife the tools could be part of my present.
12-09-2014, 05:54 PM
#131
Rennlist Member
As Mooty has pointed out keep a good supply of latex/vinyl gloves on hand. That paste is a PITA to get off your hands and near impossible to get out of clothes.
I wouldn't use my torque wrench to break loose the center lock nut. You can get a 42-48" breaker bar at a reasonable price point. Or get the MATCO extendable 3/4" ratchet. Easily fits in the trunk.
I wouldn't use my torque wrench to break loose the center lock nut. You can get a 42-48" breaker bar at a reasonable price point. Or get the MATCO extendable 3/4" ratchet. Easily fits in the trunk.
12-09-2014, 05:58 PM
#132
Nordschleife Master
Actually I am. I want to see what all the complaining is about!
Spreader for the brakes, centering tool, and grease are on their way; I have everything else. I don't need to remove the wheels to lube the front springs to eliminate the wooooing sound, but that's going to be my excuse to do it anyway. Oh, and have to wait until Xmas. Told my wife the tools could be part of my present.
Spreader for the brakes, centering tool, and grease are on their way; I have everything else. I don't need to remove the wheels to lube the front springs to eliminate the wooooing sound, but that's going to be my excuse to do it anyway. Oh, and have to wait until Xmas. Told my wife the tools could be part of my present.
12-09-2014, 06:10 PM
#133
Nordschleife Master
Mike,a man with your abilities will have no problems with CL wheels. And I'm not joking or being ironic.
It can be done and it's easy. Compared to some repairs I've done CL wheels are a joke. Ok,that might sound cocky...
I believe most people,myself included recognize their impracticality and the fact that they require certain steps and most importantly more tools,when there's a perfectly good alternative. But that's for another topic...
Grease : best to clean off the old one and use new. But that's just my opinion... For heavily tracked cars it's even more important. I think the grease manages heat and not using it will make almost impossible removing the CL nut while hot.
It can be done and it's easy. Compared to some repairs I've done CL wheels are a joke. Ok,that might sound cocky...
I believe most people,myself included recognize their impracticality and the fact that they require certain steps and most importantly more tools,when there's a perfectly good alternative. But that's for another topic...Grease : best to clean off the old one and use new. But that's just my opinion... For heavily tracked cars it's even more important. I think the grease manages heat and not using it will make almost impossible removing the CL nut while hot.
12-09-2014, 07:49 PM
#134
Race Director
As Mooty has pointed out keep a good supply of latex/vinyl gloves on hand. That paste is a PITA to get off your hands and near impossible to get out of clothes.
I wouldn't use my torque wrench to break loose the center lock nut. You can get a 42-48" breaker bar at a reasonable price point. Or get the MATCO extendable 3/4" ratchet. Easily fits in the trunk.
I wouldn't use my torque wrench to break loose the center lock nut. You can get a 42-48" breaker bar at a reasonable price point. Or get the MATCO extendable 3/4" ratchet. Easily fits in the trunk.
I've got a suitable breaker bar too.
24".
Mike,a man with your abilities will have no problems with CL wheels. And I'm not joking or being ironic.
It can be done and it's easy. Compared to some repairs I've done CL wheels are a joke. Ok,that might sound cocky... I believe most people,myself included recognize their impracticality and the fact that they require certain steps and most importantly more tools,when there's a perfectly good alternative. But that's for another topic...
Grease : best to clean off the old one and use new. But that's just my opinion... For heavily tracked cars it's even more important. I think the grease manages heat and not using it will make almost impossible removing the CL nut while hot.
It can be done and it's easy. Compared to some repairs I've done CL wheels are a joke. Ok,that might sound cocky...
I believe most people,myself included recognize their impracticality and the fact that they require certain steps and most importantly more tools,when there's a perfectly good alternative. But that's for another topic...Grease : best to clean off the old one and use new. But that's just my opinion... For heavily tracked cars it's even more important. I think the grease manages heat and not using it will make almost impossible removing the CL nut while hot.
I appreciate your thoughts about the grease. Will be interested in feedback from others as well. My car won't be heavily tracked, but I want to observe best practices.
12-09-2014, 09:13 PM
#135
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the input guys! I will be attempting my first Center Lock removal this weekend
as I hope my new Forgelines arrive by Friday with the Alpin tires.
Don't like driving on summers in the current cold temps here.
I have bought all the necessary tools and am anxious to try them out.
One question I have is, is it necessary for someone to hold the steering wheel while
loosening or tightening the center lock bolt as stated in the manual?
as I hope my new Forgelines arrive by Friday with the Alpin tires.
Don't like driving on summers in the current cold temps here.
I have bought all the necessary tools and am anxious to try them out.
One question I have is, is it necessary for someone to hold the steering wheel while
loosening or tightening the center lock bolt as stated in the manual?