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I think I may have mentioned this before but you really don't need to regrease the CL everytime you remove the wheel which will save you lots of time and eliminate the potential mess. This tip came while observing my local Porsche dealer changing my wheels on 2 separate occasions. They only inspected the grease and indicated if found not dry or not dirty or not completely gone they would not apply any fresh grease and just reinstalled the wheels while keeping the original grease that was applied at factory and this has been the case for the past 3 wheels & tires changes in the past 10 months. I don't think we need to go overboard with the grease unless the situation merits a fresh grease application, thus saving you time and effort. On a separate note and while looking at the precision centering tool, it appears to be a very simple tool. As some of you aware, I own a manufacturing company with full machine shop, so I was thinking about making my own tool which I am estimating will at be at least half of the cost of what is being advertised if not less. If some one is willing to lend me the tool for few days, I will take it to our machinist and have him make me a similar tool and can return it back to you in few days. In addition I will verify the cost to make such a tool and if indeed the cost savings are significant as I initially expected, we can run a batch of these for all GT3 Rennlist owners who are interested, and I will offer them at my cost, and pass the saving to you. Please let me know if any of you are interested in this offer. Again I am not interested in making these on regular basis or to make money, but rather a one time thing, just to help you guys out cut the cost down. Please let me know if there is an interest. Mark
The nice thing about the expensive breaker bar at suncoast is it retracts from 42 inches to 18" which I would imagine will fit in the frunk. I can't find any retractable ones like that on the web. I may have to anti up the price of admission.
I agree rockit - Spendy but this juice is perhaps worth the squeeze. I'm all about convenience. I have a race bag that fits in the frunk that holds my helment, gloves, HANS, etc. It would be nice if my CL setup fit as well, minus perhaps an extra length of pipe for those days I'm feeling weak. My ante is in.
I think I may have mentioned this before but you really don't need to regrease the CL everytime you remove the wheel which will save you lots of time and eliminate the potential mess. This tip came while observing my local Porsche dealer changing my wheels on 2 separate occasions. They only inspected the grease and indicated if found not dry or not dirty or not completely gone they would not apply any fresh grease and just reinstalled the wheels while keeping the original grease that was applied at factory and this has been the case for the past 3 wheels & tires changes in the past 10 months. I don't think we need to go overboard with the grease unless the situation merits a fresh grease application, thus saving you time and effort. On a separate note and while looking at the precision centering tool, it appears to be a very simple tool. As some of you aware, I own a manufacturing company with full machine shop, so I was thinking about making my own tool which I am estimating will at be at least half of the cost of what is being advertised if not less. If some one is willing to lend me the tool for few days, I will take it to our machinist and have him make me a similar tool and can return it back to you in few days. In addition I will verify the cost to make such a tool and if indeed the cost savings are significant as I initially expected, we can run a batch of these for all GT3 Rennlist owners who are interested, and I will offer them at my cost, and pass the saving to you. Please let me know if any of you are interested in this offer. Again I am not interested in making these on regular basis or to make money, but rather a one time thing, just to help you guys out cut the cost down. Please let me know if there is an interest. Mark
I think I may have mentioned this before but you really don't need to regrease the CL everytime you remove the wheel which will save you lots of time and eliminate the potential mess. This tip came while observing my local Porsche dealer changing my wheels on 2 separate occasions. They only inspected the grease and indicated if found not dry or not dirty or not completely gone they would not apply any fresh grease and just reinstalled the wheels while keeping the original grease that was applied at factory and this has been the case for the past 3 wheels & tires changes in the past 10 months. I don't think we need to go overboard with the grease unless the situation merits a fresh grease application, thus saving you time and effort. On a separate note and while looking at the precision centering tool, it appears to be a very simple tool. As some of you aware, I own a manufacturing company with full machine shop, so I was thinking about making my own tool which I am estimating will at be at least half of the cost of what is being advertised if not less. If some one is willing to lend me the tool for few days, I will take it to our machinist and have him make me a similar tool and can return it back to you in few days. In addition I will verify the cost to make such a tool and if indeed the cost savings are significant as I initially expected, we can run a batch of these for all GT3 Rennlist owners who are interested, and I will offer them at my cost, and pass the saving to you. Please let me know if any of you are interested in this offer. Again I am not interested in making these on regular basis or to make money, but rather a one time thing, just to help you guys out cut the cost down. Please let me know if there is an interest. Mark
I think I may have mentioned this before but you really don't need to regrease the CL everytime you remove the wheel which will save you lots of time and eliminate the potential mess. This tip came while observing my local Porsche dealer changing my wheels on 2 separate occasions. They only inspected the grease and indicated if found not dry or not dirty or not completely gone they would not apply any fresh grease and just reinstalled the wheels while keeping the original grease that was applied at factory and this has been the case for the past 3 wheels & tires changes in the past 10 months. I don't think we need to go overboard with the grease unless the situation merits a fresh grease application, thus saving you time and effort.
On a separate note and while looking at the precision centering tool, it appears to be a very simple tool. As some of you aware, I own a manufacturing company with full machine shop, so I was thinking about making my own tool which I am estimating will at be at least half of the cost of what is being advertised if not less. If some one is willing to lend me the tool for few days, I will take it to our machinist and have him make me a similar tool and can return it back to you in few days. In addition I will verify the cost to make such a tool and if indeed the cost savings are significant as I initially expected, we can run a batch of these for all GT3 Rennlist owners who are interested, and I will offer them at my cost, and pass the saving to you. Please let me know if any of you are interested in this offer. Again I am not interested in making these on regular basis or to make money, but rather a one time thing, just to help you guys out cut the cost down. Please let me know if there is an interest. Mark
I posted this on another thread, but I will re-post it here: Well, I dove in head first and had my first CL experience. Decided to put on the winter tires and new
wheels!
Here's how it went:
First I watched Paver's video again to refresh my memory. If you have not seen it, I would.
It's very good.
I laid out everything I needed and discovered it was easier to have a separate breaker bar on hand
so I wouldn't have to take apart the torque wrench and mount the breaker bar all the time.
You don't have to have a separate BB, but it does save time.
The first thing I realized is that the little cap tool that came with the Rennline centering tool is worthless.
The tip broke off the first time. And the other end of the center lock spring tool is too sharp and can
mar the cap. I opted for a small awl.
Next came the breaker bar and bolt removal
I put the spreader clamp in place and realized it was easier to move the seat back and forth
to push the spreader against the brake. Worked great! I also used the front lift to give some
clearance for the jack. I used the Suncoast Breaker bar and I had to use some good amount of
torque to loosen the bolt. I then used the ratchet head to spin the bolt off.
I then screwed the Centering tool into the threaded hub. Wear latex gloves as the paste is on the
threads. It gets all over the tool. It was a huge help having the centering tool as it is easy to
guide the wheel off and the wheel back on. Easy on your back too! I applied some paste on the
new wheel CL hub as it was new and dry. On with the new wheel and back goes the bolt.
I used the ratchet head to spin it back on.
I also put a towel inside the spokes below the center lock as a cushion in case the socket head
were to accidentally come in contact with the wheel. I didn't want to mar it. And oz. of prevention...
so it goes.
Lastly, I folded up the mirror so the bar would not hit it and torqued the bolt in with my new torque
wrench. Careful not to let it slip off the bolt. Now here is where you need someone to hold the steering wheel. If you don't have a trunk monkey to help you,
get someone to hold the steering wheel when torquing the fronts! It is a must. It's a lot of torque and there was no way I could keep
the wheel from moving. The rears are no issue obviously. Thank god my wife was a good sport.
She did great.
Lastly, don't forget after first torque, to back off the bolt a quarter turn and re-torque to 440 lbs.
I included a picture of the torque wrench and the torque wrench with breaker bar attached
if you don't want to buy a separate breaker bar.
Lastly, I made sure the locks were back out before I put the cap back on. The Centering tool gets
covered with paste. Especially the threads. I found WD40 cleans that stuff off nicely.
When using the torque wrench make sure the wrench is on the end correctly. When tightening
the adjustment dial is on the bottom. This is critical, as failure to mount it correctly will not allow
the split beam torque wrench to work and you can accidentally over torque the bolt!
Took me 2 hours to remove all 4 wheels and mount four new ones. I think I could save time next
time as I have done it once. Boxed up the summer wheels and tires and now I am ready for cold
temps! It was just a little hairy driving on summers in below 40 degree temps. Now I have
some serious sipes!
Rubbaman. So in your opinion. Are the CLs really that big of a deal?
Yes and No. For starters, you only have to worry about one bolt! That's nice.
No 5 bolts to torque in star pattern, etc.
But, having to have someone hold the steering wheel while torquing the fronts
can be a pain. I don't know how it could be a one person job for the fronts.
Guiding the wheel on with the centering tool is a piece of cake. I like that.
Dealing with the paste, not so much. It gets on the threads of the centering
tool and is messy. But all in all, not so bad.
Yes and No. For starters, you only have to worry about one bolt! That's nice.
No 5 bolts to torque in star pattern, etc.
But, having to have someone hold the steering wheel while torquing the fronts
can be a pain. I don't know how it could be a one person job for the fronts.
Guiding the wheel on with the centering tool is a piece of cake. I like that.
Dealing with the paste, not so much. It gets on the threads of the centering
tool and is messy. But all in all, not so bad.
Haha! The only concern I had was whether the PI torque wrench was properly calibrated so I checked against another fellow Rennlister's torque wrench, and it was good. Track time!
12-10-2014, 09:20 PM
