More info on fancy electric tool for Centerlocks
#31
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Do you really think it would make a difference loosening with an impact wrench? As it is, I bounce on my 4-5 ft breaker bar for a minute or two to loosen the centerlock nut / bolt. Couldn't a fraction of a second of higher force be possibly more effective? I suppose we need a mechanical stress engineer to explain the differences.
I don’t need an engineer to confirm that, but maybe one can chime in for good measure (pun intended
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Btw, sounds like you need a longer breaker bar if it takes repetitive bouncing to break loose. The Precision bar makes an adaptor to lengthen it:
https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=...caAmYeEALw_wcB
Also, if it takes more than usual effort (700 nm or more) to loosen that means you need to rebuild (breakdown, clean, re-grease) the centerlock bolt.
FYI - all individual parts cleaned with WD40 or similar and all individual parts greased with Alu paste, except the large wide flat washer.
Last edited by GrantG; 07-09-2021 at 12:57 PM.
#32
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Is Milwaukee gun an impact type gun?
Cup car center lock nut can be used with an impact gun. Cup service menu indicates replace the nut after 6 hours of service life. Race teams probably stretch that interval a littler longer.
street center locks/hubs are of totally different design construction and Porsche says never to be used with an impact.
Cup car center lock nut can be used with an impact gun. Cup service menu indicates replace the nut after 6 hours of service life. Race teams probably stretch that interval a littler longer.
street center locks/hubs are of totally different design construction and Porsche says never to be used with an impact.
I don't think people really understand this part.
And like has already been mentioned, I'd like to be able to remove a wheel myself at home without a steering wheel lock and a brake clamp (or another body in the seat) to have new tires installed or even to swap wheels out if I so desire. I know a lot of people just take their stuff to the dealer and that's OK I guess, but not all of us live within an hour of a dealership. When I'm taking my GT3 on another road trip, I'd absolutely have that case in the car with me if I can get my hands on one. This tool is good value at the price if you think about all that it's doing and the time/effort it saves.
If I ever sell the car for a non P-car centerlock vehicle (doubtful, but who knows), then it goes with the car and is built into the selling price.
It's funny how people will spend thousands of dollars on appearance stuff on their hoopties....but buy a substantially priced tool to service it with? Pffffft. (this isn't a Porsche specific phenomenon btw)
Anyway, I'll state it again in case Hytorc ever reads this thread. Build it. I'm ready.
#33
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Big difference between hammering and bouncing your weight slowly on flexible rod.
I don’t need an engineer to confirm that, but maybe one can chime in for good measure (pun intended
).
Btw, sounds like you need a longer breaker bar if it takes repetitive bouncing to break loose. The Precision bar makes an adaptor to lengthen it:
https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=...caAmYeEALw_wcB
Also, if it takes more than usual effort (700 nm or more) to loosen that means you need to rebuild (breakdown, clean, re-grease) the centerlock bolt.
FYI - all individual parts cleaned with WD40 or similar and all individual parts greased with Alu paste, except the large wide flat washer.
I don’t need an engineer to confirm that, but maybe one can chime in for good measure (pun intended
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Btw, sounds like you need a longer breaker bar if it takes repetitive bouncing to break loose. The Precision bar makes an adaptor to lengthen it:
https://www.radwell.com/Shop?source=...caAmYeEALw_wcB
Also, if it takes more than usual effort (700 nm or more) to loosen that means you need to rebuild (breakdown, clean, re-grease) the centerlock bolt.
FYI - all individual parts cleaned with WD40 or similar and all individual parts greased with Alu paste, except the large wide flat washer.
I'll have to look for an extender for that one. . .
I went with the Teng Tools torque wrench (because it looked cooler)!
#34
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Thanks for that discussion and info! I think on long trips it would be necessary to have CL tools available in your car for any tire shop you find along the way.
Currently, I just have plug tools in the glove box. Kudos to Hytorc for coming up with another option.
Currently, I just have plug tools in the glove box. Kudos to Hytorc for coming up with another option.
#35
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Thanks for the recommendation. It looks like I have a 40" breaker bar, made by Titan (similar to found here: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-12048-4.../dp/B002DU1DDI )
I'll have to look for an extender for that one. . .
I went with the Teng Tools torque wrench (because it looked cooler)!
I'll have to look for an extender for that one. . .
I went with the Teng Tools torque wrench (because it looked cooler)!
#36
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I would buy one of these in a minute since I have 3 cars with centerlocks. Assuming fair price of course (not worth more than $3-4k to me). Currently enjoy the rentorq tool This would even be better.
#38
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#40
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If it is constructed the same as OEM I don't see what the issue would be. the OEM nut is built by a supplier for Porsche. Doesn't seem much different to me, just a different way to fasten it.
#42
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It’s the smart design to have that outer ring for counter-torque that lets you operate without having to apply the car’s front brakes and doesn’t transfer any force to the wheel spokes. I’d make that tradeoff …
Last edited by GrantG; 07-09-2021 at 06:29 PM.
#43
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I think it’s the same part that Porsche uses with one modification for the outer ring. It doesn’t make me nervous. But it doesn’t blend visually as well as stock. It wouldn’t stop me from ordering if the price is right.
It’s the smart design to have that outer ring for counter-torque that lets you operate without having to apply the car’s front brakes and doesn’t transfer any force to the wheel spokes. I’d make that tradeoff …
It’s the smart design to have that outer ring for counter-torque that lets you operate without having to apply the car’s front brakes and doesn’t transfer any force to the wheel spokes. I’d make that tradeoff …
#44
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The color doesn't blend well with the stainless, but I think if it was all one color it would look better. The original prototype was an OEM centerlock that they modified. The shot on the "more information" pre-order page shows the original prototype centerlock and you can see the outer ring was cut down to fit the stainless component. They used my car for the original video and the newer video and pics on their website. At the time of the first video people were using the red 997 centerlocks and I mentioned to them they should provide options for other colors (sounds like on Matt's video they are considering that). The first time they used it on my car it was something to see given how easy it was. If you have a need to remove the wheels often I can see this being very useful.
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#45
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So the outer ring is held in place by friction as a counter force at first when you start loosening the nut then you just hold the gun firmly rest of the way. Pretty smart design.
will the standard center lock socket fit over the modified nut for emergency use? Doesn’t look like it will.
also I will assume all factory warranty will be void in the hub /wheel bearing/wheel carrier etc.
will the standard center lock socket fit over the modified nut for emergency use? Doesn’t look like it will.
also I will assume all factory warranty will be void in the hub /wheel bearing/wheel carrier etc.