Boeing 717

1) The rocker panels on the side, I'm assuming they are not supposed to be wavy like this? I looked on the bottom and I don't see anything bent. So how do I fix it if not normal?

2) Do I have to take the Front wheels off to get the foreward small rocker panel off?

3) Any good fix for this black panel that came loose on the rear hatch, saw where a new one is $300

4) The rear hatch is lower on the left side than on the right side, is there a way to adjust it? Its even where it meets the roof and on the rear but on the sides its off, kind of weird.

5) Where should I start for diagnosing the cold engine stall and rough idle? ( idle control valve, crank reference sensor,?)

6) The fuel pump in the rear hums a little, normal or not?

7) Will my Durametric work on this car?

az968gpw

1. no, not supposed to be wavy, check to see if all the retaining clips are installed on the underside of the panels. I would suspect some are missing. you can get from dealer.

2. no, i didn't, but it's probably easier to reconnect the little rubber tab on the rubber trim if you do.

3. Ugg. There is a thread on this site about the hockey sticks.

4. yes, start with the parts that go into the latch, they are adjustable, that's like the issue.

5. pass, sorry

6. don't think that is normal, i don't hear mine over the roar of the exhaust :-)

7. ODB-1. So need to be able to support that.

thomasmryan

jeff has a pdf for replacing the side trim rubber. you might need to reshape the little metal mounting tabs. it would be easier with car lifted and the tires removed.

you can hold the pedal down and do a flash count with the check engine light. it is on the durametric web site.

I would look at vacuum leaks and the date code on the distributor cap. there are four rubber elbows and a couple plastic hard lines. doing a new intake gasket and aos seals smoothed out my motor. a bad hall sensor will just retard the timing....a bad reference sensor is a no-start. if it has been parked/undriven a while, try some techron.

Boeing 717

Thank you guys.

touareg

I tried a couple obd 1 to obd 2 ebay cheap cables, none worked, so I cut it apart and made my own (had to hack the connector and re-solder as not all pins had a wire)

After that I was able to get the durametric to work, I was able to scan ABS, Airbag, DME and Alarm module I believe, which is probably everything.

I have a thread on troubleshooting door locks, will post back if I I can find it.

EDIT: https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...ock-issue.html

Here you go, has pin outs for cable, etc.

touareg

https://rennlist.com/forums/968-foru...-spoilers.html

Thread I started, best to do something, even if temporary as stories seem to indicate if you don't lose the whole stick, it can snap off in half too. I have yet to glue mine.

Guy I bought the used ones from bought new ones, and he said during install that even those had a stud break off!

Boeing 717

Thanks a lot Touareg I appreciate it.

Vendetta NY

Nice work. Any chance you have a writeup on this?

-V

RajDatta

The obd1 adapter is only $60 or so. Not sure if it's worth the time and effort for what it cost to get the plug n play adapter.

Paul Waterloo

I have (2) OBD-I connectors for the Durametric that I would sell. If you want to buy one from Durametric directly, they will ask you for proof of purchase, if you don't have it, they won't sell to you. I bought mine used, so I did not have proof. I bought the OBD-II to I cable from somebody on Rennlist in the classifieds. The other one I bought on ebay.de

If you want one, I'll sell it for $45 shipped. Just PM me.

touareg

See that is the problem, I hate paying $60 for $3 in parts. Both cables I got were $6 shipped I think from ebay and amazon.

But yes at that point, I wasted $12 and my time, as many of the pins did not even have a wire connected to them, which makes me think they were not really obd1 with that type of connector to obd2 but some car that uses a custom obd1 round connector cable to standard obd2 and then like most stuff in china 300 vendors copy that and claim it is something they know nothing about

Originally I think there was no spec for OBD1 connectors, just the pinouts.

I get satisfaction from hacking something to work sometimes!

touareg

The link above has the pinouts, so if you have a multimeter and soldering iron, not that hard.





Something like this *MAY* work, as it looks like you can unscrew the plug, and move pins around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-BMW-VAG-...799373&vxp=mtr




But it may have a solid block of plastic covering all the wires and pins inside that was vacuum molded.

Either way unless it is a $60 plug, I would check every pin with voltmeter to make sure you don't send 12v down the wrong line before you plug it in.

Vendetta NY

Awesome, thank you!

I did purchase a Durametric adapter from Paul, and will give it a once over with my multimeter prior to plugging it in - just in case.

-V

potent951turbo

Or you can use the correct Bosch KTS-301 "Hammer"

Paul Waterloo

It is my understanding that there are different connections from a Durametric cable and a generic OBDII cable. Or at least when I bought the one from ebay.de, I had to choose which one I wanted. I sold Vendetta the Durametric cable that was supplied by Durametric. I used it with my Durametric and it worked perfectly on my old 968 to clear the airbag.