Gluing on studs to 968 Hatch L Spoilers
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Gluing on studs to 968 Hatch L Spoilers
So if I want to restore a good set of hockey sticks (fiberglass is good) but most of the studs have come un-glued. What is the best way to clean and re-attach the studs. So this is metal to fibron (Patented fiberglass) I think it is called.
I assume since 1990, that adhesives have come a bit further.
I assume since 1990, that adhesives have come a bit further.
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
#6
Are you talking about the rocker panels (shark fins/hockey sticks)? If so, those are made of PUR plastic and the studs are held on by molded in holders that the studs clip to.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I have to deal with the same issue so looking forward to ideas.
#9
I had to do this on the hatch I put on my 951. I used Gorilla Glue Original and its held fine since 2005. Just make sure you follow the direction (it needs water to activate properly), clamp it and leave it sit for 24 hours. One of the hockey sticks had cracked and was almost completely broken off, and I also used Gorilla Glue to repair it as well. It is not noticeable unless you are going over the car with a magnifying glass.
Regards, ...Scott
Regards, ...Scott
#10
Couple of suggestions. To maximize the strength of the glue itself look for a two part epoxy (comes in two separate tubes or containers) that has as long a cure time as possible. Generally speaking, the longer the cure time the stronger the bond. I know Home Depot sells one with a 24 hour cure, the adhesives used in aerospace have cure times of 48 hours or longer.
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Couple of suggestions. To maximize the strength of the glue itself look for a two part epoxy (comes in two separate tubes or containers) that has as long a cure time as possible. Generally speaking, the longer the cure time the stronger the bond. I know Home Depot sells one with a 24 hour cure, the adhesives used in aerospace have cure times of 48 hours or longer.
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
Rough up the surface of the pins where it will meet the adhesive. I used 60 grit in gluing a carbon fiber/epoxy strut tower brace tube to aluminum end members, it held together quite well through many autocrosses on DOT race rubber and tens of thousands of street miles.
Hope this helps
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I had to do this on the hatch I put on my 951. I used Gorilla Glue Original and its held fine since 2005. Just make sure you follow the direction (it needs water to activate properly), clamp it and leave it sit for 24 hours. One of the hokey sticks had cracked and was almost completely broken off, and I also used Gorilla Glue to repair it as well. It is not noticeable unless you are going over the car with a magnifying glass.
Regards, ...Scott
Regards, ...Scott
#14
Instructor
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Additional Step
So I have done this twice and it failed both times after about a year.
I used two different types of two part epoxy. What I found is that the epoxy had no trouble adhering to the "hockey stick" it failed to stick, long term, to the back of the pins.
I had roughed them up with a medium file and cleaned them with wax and grease remover. Once I had a couple start to fail I pulled the trim to find several were loose and most if not all had no glue on the metal pin.
I just redid them but this time after roughing the pins and cleaning I painted the metal surface with some PPG epoxy primer I had been using for some other project.
You could use spray can epoxy primer, you just need to get something that will adhere to the pins so your glue (two part epoxy) sticks long term to both sides.
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has had the same experience after their repair.
I used two different types of two part epoxy. What I found is that the epoxy had no trouble adhering to the "hockey stick" it failed to stick, long term, to the back of the pins.
I had roughed them up with a medium file and cleaned them with wax and grease remover. Once I had a couple start to fail I pulled the trim to find several were loose and most if not all had no glue on the metal pin.
I just redid them but this time after roughing the pins and cleaning I painted the metal surface with some PPG epoxy primer I had been using for some other project.
You could use spray can epoxy primer, you just need to get something that will adhere to the pins so your glue (two part epoxy) sticks long term to both sides.
I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else has had the same experience after their repair.
#15
Burning Brakes
Over here in the UK we have had good results with Sikaflex - not sure if you have this in the US but it is a strong flexible adhesive, used a lot in marine applications.