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Do not remove the spare tire. I have seen these cars including the 993 have serious front end collisions with and without the spare in place. The spare is part of the crashworthiness of the car. It is designed to absorb part of the impact. Cars with it in place you can see held up far better than without. Unless you reinforce the tub I would reconsider and then by doing so your savings is not all that great.
I had also read this, it's the only reason I still run around with mine in there. Shame really as its bloody heavy!
I've read online about this spare "front crash" thing on all 911s. Thing that is odd to me is that if that were the case, wouldn't you see porsche putting a warning SOMEWHERE on the tire, in the manual, whatever to that fact? They cannot assume that tire is there for crash testing. Not starting a debate on this ...
here are all the rear parts. everything is getting cleaned up. brake shielding will be trimmed back... car should be assembled tomorrow or Saturday, alignment and setup / tuning next week. Then off for the rest of the goodies. Unfortunately the next phase is going to take some time because we're dealing with paint, fabrication, and some grunt labor on my part to strip the sound deadening!
We have had a delay getting a few of the parts for the master cylinder conversion. booster, gasket, and bracket were supposed to be here 3 days ago.
Shown below:
rear KW clubsports with custom spring rates
ERP rear monoball bearing for swing arm
ERP rear monoball spring plates
Brembo rear brake kit with 2 piece slotted/floating rear rotors
ERP drop links (or maybe those are Tarett)
RS factory sway bar
Not shown: stainless brake lines, heater motor bypass, 993 coils/wires, lion battery, new rear wheel bearings, and a few other bits that are going in now.
Let us know how you get on with the 993 master cylinder with the rs front roll bar. I had to modify my bracket with the linkage in quite drastically as the booster was touching the bar. It would bolt up but there was some serious strain on the cast mount and that's the last thing you want to fatigue and break! I used the 993 mount, some people use the 964 one and bore the centre out to fit. Maybe this would work but I still don't see it! I keep commenting but forgetting to say COOL BUILD! Exactly how I'd have done it, oh wait......
I've read online about this spare "front crash" thing on all 911s. Thing that is odd to me is that if that were the case, wouldn't you see porsche putting a warning SOMEWHERE on the tire, in the manual, whatever to that fact? They cannot assume that tire is there for crash testing. Not starting a debate on this ...
I have to check but IIRC there is something in the owner's manual. Even if not Porsche did not envision people lightening and modifying their cars to the extent we do. I have seen some serious front end accidents complete crumple to the windshield 964's and 993's both with and without the spare in place. No doubt the spare made enough difference to prevent more serious injuries.
Would be nice if someone in the plastic business was on rennlist and made a honeycombed lightweight replacement for the spare to absorb impact.
BTW what spring rates did you go with? Can't wait to see this done.
Let us know how you get on with the 993 master cylinder with the rs front roll bar. I had to modify my bracket with the linkage in quite drastically as the booster was touching the bar. It would bolt up but there was some serious strain on the cast mount and that's the last thing you want to fatigue and break! I used the 993 mount, some people use the 964 one and bore the centre out to fit. Maybe this would work but I still don't see it! I keep commenting but forgetting to say COOL BUILD! Exactly how I'd have done it, oh wait......
Interesting there are several posts of this being plug and play. I wonder if your issue was due to being right drive? (is it?) but thanks for the heads up we won't be fitting this until the rest of the parts come in. Ok, i found your thread on this, and i see the issue due to the lack of curvature of the rs sway bar. Will test fit everything first and shim / tweak as necessary. Thanks for the heads up.
Originally Posted by cobalt
Would be nice if someone in the plastic business was on rennlist and made a honeycombed lightweight replacement for the spare to absorb impact.
BTW what spring rates did you go with? Can't wait to see this done.
One thought I had is building an insert using that high density foam they use under bumper covers. Light but dense and clearly it's there to absorb shock on newer cars....
Rates I need to check. They are not as high as I'd use on the car if more track focused but springs are easy to change. I'll get exact numbers later.
Originally Posted by 18T_BT
Before installing your new wheel bearings, open them up and repack them with grease.
And the 993 brake parts came in! All parts thoroughly cleaned, the arms and frame pieces look new. All bearings pressed in, wheel studs pressed, and the monoballs all swapped (BIG JOB). All parts ready for assembly.
Looking sweet, this project is moving along fast! Hoping you can clear something up for me before I send my car in for the uprights to be fitted. When I first researched it some time ago I saw no mention of fitting the 993 side members, I then left it for a while as the engine was being built. Now I've come back to it I've seen a couple of people saying that they're needed, looking at your picture you are also fitting the cross member. Is fitting them a must or is there some sort of gain to be had by fitting them? My car is going in at the end of the month and I'd assured my mechanic that it will be straightforward. After the drama with the 993 master cylinder I could do with keeping him sweet!
The parts for the chassis took about a month to source. Dampers and 993 brake pieces took longest. plus my chassis guy is 100% focused on this once he started.
I may not get all the subtle pieces right here, but to put the evo uprights on you need:
Evo uprights
993 abs sensor (use 964 ring, hub)
New bearings
993 inner steering tie rod, mine will be welded you can pin too or ERP will have an inner soon
I'm using the ERP outer tie rod with bump steer adjustment
993 lower control arm link / ball (under upright)
993 bolt for the ball link
993 brake calipers or adapters
The 993 arms or subframe pieces are not needed. They are the exact same geometry. They are a little beefier and a little heavier. Mine were taken off for access and cleaning.
I may have missed a few bits but that should be it. Others can chime in too.
I will have all known parts in hand for the next step before car gets dropped off at the shop. Having all parts there makes the process go much much quicker. Of course there are little things you don't anticipate. For example I needed new rear bearings. Left one was a little wobbly so we replaced both.
Also next part involves fabrication and welding and that just takes time... Oh and some paint for wing, and a few other pieces.
Evo uprights ( and associated parts) were by far made the most noticeable change to my suspension. Seeing that pile of parts has me wishing it was spring. Damn you SoCal guys
You need the cross members to get camber and to get the longer 993 tie rods to work. I've been through this process.
For a narrow body / narrow arms?
The geometry on the arms and cross members 993 / 964 are the same. (Correction a arm same longitudinalls allow for wider track using 993)
993 cross member are not needed. This has also been documented here quite a bit.
You should be doing the 993 longitudinal members to do it right, otherwise your tie-rods are going to be pretty much at their minimum length and you might still have toe-in.
They'll give you more negative camber and a wider front track too.
01-07-2016, 06:18 PM
