My 964 C2 Transformation Build Thread
#121
Hey Bill,
Just saw this. And Yes!!! I've never been so enthusiastic about the car or about any mod I've done on any car---period!!! It completely transformed the car and feels like at least 50 HP was added. This is the way Porsche should have geared the car from the factory. I cannot believe the fun factor. The car just scoots. It does help that I've taken out a little weight (2770 lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas). I wish I would have performed this mod years ago....
Have a Happy 2016!!!
Mike
Just saw this. And Yes!!! I've never been so enthusiastic about the car or about any mod I've done on any car---period!!! It completely transformed the car and feels like at least 50 HP was added. This is the way Porsche should have geared the car from the factory. I cannot believe the fun factor. The car just scoots. It does help that I've taken out a little weight (2770 lbs with a 1/4 tank of gas). I wish I would have performed this mod years ago....
Have a Happy 2016!!!
Mike
Did you get rid of the a/b's and knee cushion yet? That will get the weight down even further.
#123
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Getting back to OP, nice build. We should compare notes sometime. Our builds have a lot in common.
#124
Any reason you wouldn't consider a "street" deck lid that fits the looks and then a real airfoil for the rear for track days? It would require changing lids, but that seems better than finding a compromise that doesn't fit the bill in either scenario all that well...
#125
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Any reason you wouldn't consider a "street" deck lid that fits the looks and then a real airfoil for the rear for track days? It would require changing lids, but that seems better than finding a compromise that doesn't fit the bill in either scenario all that well...
#126
Rennlist Member
I like to pose :-) actually I drive my cars and while the wing (like the one on my gt3rs) is really just for show on the street having a positive impact at speed on the track is attractive. And honestly I kinda like the look. Because race car? Lol. I do ~30 track days a year and anticipate the 964 to pickup about 1/4 of those, for a little spice in the de life....
Though not exactly what how your project will end up, this video should give you a feel for the look (and sound)
#127
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#128
Three Wheelin'
Interesting project.
My cars been off the road since I had a bit of an off at SPA back in April.
The damage wasn't that bad, but I've been taking my time putting all the bits required together for the rebuild.
Engine needed a rebuild too d I've just made the decision to go 3.8 plus special cams new ECU and a potential compressor installation at the end of this year.
Many of your mods are applicable to my project so I'll be following closely especially the gear box options.
I've heard great things about the 993 6 speed boxes, but I keen to know more about modifying the std 5 speed.
My cars been off the road since I had a bit of an off at SPA back in April.
The damage wasn't that bad, but I've been taking my time putting all the bits required together for the rebuild.
Engine needed a rebuild too d I've just made the decision to go 3.8 plus special cams new ECU and a potential compressor installation at the end of this year.
Many of your mods are applicable to my project so I'll be following closely especially the gear box options.
I've heard great things about the 993 6 speed boxes, but I keen to know more about modifying the std 5 speed.
#129
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
MORE PARTS!!!! Safety first! Bk sub belt mounts and RS factory inboard 3pt receptacle mounts (harnesses will bolt to tunnel on inboard sides).
#130
what groups do you usually run with at the track? I used to be on track about 30-40 days a year, but it's been a couple years since I've had that frequency. I've almost always been in Japanese cars up to this point. And more race cars than track days. Have you always been in Porsches?
Anyway, yeah, Form follows function. I will have no problem running a proper wing in the street when my car progresses to that level.
Anyway, yeah, Form follows function. I will have no problem running a proper wing in the street when my car progresses to that level.
#131
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Various So/NorCal/NV PCA groups, POC, private days, HOD, speed ventures, and a few others. Mostly PCA though. I like that its mostly Porsche (and a handful of BMWs) and people are out having fun, driving fast but smarter than some other groups.
Always been into porsche? Since I was a kid, friends wanted lambos, I wanted a Carrera, bought my first one about 6 years ago. Always had sports cars but after first 911 got the bug bad.
Always been into porsche? Since I was a kid, friends wanted lambos, I wanted a Carrera, bought my first one about 6 years ago. Always had sports cars but after first 911 got the bug bad.
Last edited by Spyerx; 12-30-2015 at 12:37 PM.
#132
Safety Suggestion
MORE PARTS!!!! Safety first! Bk sub belt mounts and RS factory inboard 3pt receptacle mounts (harnesses will bolt to tunnel on inboard sides).
Since I sold my 964 track car a few years ago I haven't visited here as often as I'd like and this is my introduction to Spyerx's great project.
The location and strength of the connection points for sub-belts is important since these belts keep the lap belt in position on your pelvis. Refer to Schroth's installation manual for the relatively narrow range of the angle to locate the attachment points.
The BK cross bar relies on the seat rails and sliders, to function properly. I think the seat rails/sliders on the 996/997 platform are considerably stronger than those on the 964; a cross bar for subbelts was offered in the later chassis by the factory. On the 964 they welded in anchor plates for the sub belts eyebolts.
I suggest using eyebolts and harness clips for the subbelts in a 964. To install the attachment eyebolts under the seat, IIRC I moved the DME a few inches w/o any problem. The eyebolts threaded into individual anchor plates under the floor pan. I sandwhiched a single relatively large 1/8" steel plate between the bottom of the floor pan and the small anchor bolt plates to accomodate the pan bends and spread the load. I spray can painted the entire plate and used body shop dumdum at the holes. This corrosion protection worked well for many years. At first I thought the bottom the anchor nut would be venerable but never had any problems on a very low car (it had 993 evo front hubs).
While the rear cage is being installed I urge you to install stronger seat rails or at least carefully reinforce the sheet metal pedestals.
I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.
BTW, another endorsement for regearing - you won't regret it.
Since I sold my 964 track car a few years ago I haven't visited here as often as I'd like and this is my introduction to Spyerx's great project.
The location and strength of the connection points for sub-belts is important since these belts keep the lap belt in position on your pelvis. Refer to Schroth's installation manual for the relatively narrow range of the angle to locate the attachment points.
The BK cross bar relies on the seat rails and sliders, to function properly. I think the seat rails/sliders on the 996/997 platform are considerably stronger than those on the 964; a cross bar for subbelts was offered in the later chassis by the factory. On the 964 they welded in anchor plates for the sub belts eyebolts.
I suggest using eyebolts and harness clips for the subbelts in a 964. To install the attachment eyebolts under the seat, IIRC I moved the DME a few inches w/o any problem. The eyebolts threaded into individual anchor plates under the floor pan. I sandwhiched a single relatively large 1/8" steel plate between the bottom of the floor pan and the small anchor bolt plates to accomodate the pan bends and spread the load. I spray can painted the entire plate and used body shop dumdum at the holes. This corrosion protection worked well for many years. At first I thought the bottom the anchor nut would be venerable but never had any problems on a very low car (it had 993 evo front hubs).
While the rear cage is being installed I urge you to install stronger seat rails or at least carefully reinforce the sheet metal pedestals.
I'm looking forward to seeing the completed project.
BTW, another endorsement for regearing - you won't regret it.
#133
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm familiar with the proper installation of the harnesses. First, the inner lap will be mounted to a bolt to the chassis with a sabelt backing plate and proper hardware. The outer lap will be mounted to the roll bar which will be welded and attached to plates on the floor, tacked at the b pillar, etc. The rears will be wrapped around a bar similar to placement on the 997 cup cars. The seats are recaro pole positions, with recaro aluminum risers, and recaro double locking sliders. The BK bar bolts to the chassis under the sliders at the proper angle and the belts are wrapped around the cross bar. There is more than enough strength there for the sub bar which needs about 1/2 (maybe less I need to look at the schroth document again) G force strength of the lap and shoulder belts. The 3pt inner belt mount uses the factory RS mount which I picked up.
Once we get the car apart and all the parts are being installed we may revisit the sub mounting, for now I plan to use the cross bars, they may be welded in.
Once we get the car apart and all the parts are being installed we may revisit the sub mounting, for now I plan to use the cross bars, they may be welded in.
#134
Rennlist Member
The stamped steel seat mounts installed by the factory are notorious for failing on tracked (DE) cars. I have seen this happen multiple times including my C2. It gives no warning until suddenly the metal fails and the seat starts to rock. It is usually the front left mounting portion of the drivers side that lets go first. The seat bracket will fail eventually once you start pulling strong G's with a sub belt. Especially if you are an anchor like me.
I would at a minimum for DE/street, reinforce the stamped steel brackets. This is one of the first things I did to my track car while they were still solid.
As far as tails go. The RSA tail on my C2 was a considerable improvement at speed over the pop up tail. The BiWing tail was double the improvement over the RSA tail. I especially noticed considerably improved high speed stability at tracks like VIR, Lightning or the glen where I can get some decent speed out of the car on the straights.
I would at a minimum for DE/street, reinforce the stamped steel brackets. This is one of the first things I did to my track car while they were still solid.
As far as tails go. The RSA tail on my C2 was a considerable improvement at speed over the pop up tail. The BiWing tail was double the improvement over the RSA tail. I especially noticed considerably improved high speed stability at tracks like VIR, Lightning or the glen where I can get some decent speed out of the car on the straights.
#135
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cool guys appreciate the info on the oem seat mount. We will look at this once the interior is apart.