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The stamped steel seat mounts installed by the factory are notorious for failing on tracked (DE) cars. I have seen this happen multiple times including my C2. It gives no warning until suddenly the metal fails and the seat starts to rock. It is usually the front left mounting portion of the drivers side that lets go first. The seat bracket will fail eventually once you start pulling strong G's with a sub belt. Especially if you are an anchor like me.
I would at a minimum for DE/street, reinforce the stamped steel brackets. This is one of the first things I did to my track car while they were still solid.
I'm not clear on what part you're talking about. The side mounts? The sliders? The floor of the unibody?
I'm not clear on what part you're talking about. The side mounts? The sliders? The floor of the unibody?
I don't have any after pictures. But I removed this part and fabricated a piece out of stronger steel and welded it in place. The factory part is made of very thin gauge metal and will eventually fail due to the stress associated with hard cornering.
Chris looks like a nice clean car. Why didn't you just cut up the old sensor wires instead of cutting up new ones.
And the front end is all apart!
Rear end apart soon, then clean all the parts, then back together.
No surprises so far other than a crunchy rear wheel bearing, so we'll replace both. Fronts getting new due to the new uprights (Evo).
For clarity, the parts are:
KW Clubsports with custom spring rates
Brembo GT brake kit, 6 piston front mono block caliper and 2 piece rotor, aluminum hat
ERP shock top plates
ERP monoball bearings
RS Sway bar
Tarett drop links
ERP front tie rod ends with bump steer
Inside will be 993 factory that are welded to eliminate the rubber (not shown)
993 Evo uprights, lower monoball, abs sensor, etc
Rothsport steering rack bushings
Rothsport strut bar (not shown)
Rothsport steering rack brace (not shown)
New bearings (not shown)
Stainless brake lines (not shown)
And a few other bits....
And the front end is all apart!
Rear end apart soon, then clean all the parts, then back together.
No surprises so far other than a crunchy rear wheel bearing, so we'll replace both. Fronts getting new due to the new uprights (Evo).
You 've gone this far might as well ice the cake w/ some better backing plates backing plates
Suspension fully off car (spring plates off in the am) should have full chassis done by Saturday. Then setup and tuning.
Surprising to me how clean the car is underside.
We are having a parts arrival issue on a couple of the 993 parts. Should arrive tomorrow
Oh yeah we weighed car. Stock as it sits with 3/4 tanks gas 3003 lbs. I want to get to 2700 or so less even better but targeting that. Will be interesting to see how much the suspension (lighter) and brakes (heavier or similar) changes base weight. The dampers alone feel a good 5 lbs lighter each.
Your target weight is where my car is now with the spare wheel and tool kit still on the frunk. To get there I had to do seats, full air con removal, heater bypass, sunroof delete and strip the loom and central locking/stereo etc. I did add some weight with a heigo half cage. I'll be interested to see what the uprights and associated parts do for your weight as I have these Sat waiting to go on the car. You'll be very pleased with what the weight loss will do for your car, the difference is unreal! My target weight is 2550lbs, I'm hoping that a carbon bonnet and boot, a lightweight battery and ditching the spare + fitting the uprights etc will get me there. And mines red, enough said!
Spare and light battery and tools removal are good for at least 50lbs! Hood in carbon will get you 20 maybe more. Deck lid will get you about 20.
Shop guys build race rsa spec cars back in the day from street cars and 2750 was "easy" and that included full cage.
We will weigh the car after the chassis is done (have to for corner balance) and see. Im suspecting a few lbs off as my brakes are a lot beefier.
Current weight plan is: interior strip, light carpets, radio removal, door panels, race seats, sound deadening removal, light wing, light hood, spare and tools removal (spare won't fit over front brakes!) and lithium battery.
Spare and light battery and tools removal are good for at least 50lbs! Hood in carbon will get you 20 maybe more. Deck lid will get you about 20.
Shop guys build race rsa spec cars back in the day from street cars and 2750 was "easy" and that included full cage.
We will weigh the car after the chassis is done (have to for corner balance) and see. Im suspecting a few lbs off as my brakes are a lot beefier.
Current weight plan is: interior strip, light carpets, radio removal, door panels, race seats, sound deadening removal, light wing, light hood, spare and tools removal (spare won't fit over front brakes!) and lithium battery.
Do not remove the spare tire. I have seen these cars including the 993 have serious front end collisions with and without the spare in place. The spare is part of the crashworthiness of the car. It is designed to absorb part of the impact. Cars with it in place you can see held up far better than without. Unless you reinforce the tub I would reconsider and then by doing so your savings is not all that great.
01-05-2016, 11:43 PM
