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Bitter-Sweet Beginning

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Old 02-04-2016, 02:53 PM
  #226  
C4inLA
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You mention not selecting machinist yet, but doesn't all that head work need a machinist? What exactly was done with heads? I see old valves? No new guides, valves?

Last edited by C4inLA; 02-21-2016 at 04:25 AM.
Old 02-04-2016, 07:24 PM
  #227  
964Andrew
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The crank just needs to be polished, no grind. I think I can find someone locally and save on shipping. The heads were inspected, cleaned, re and re valve guides, new valve seals, surface (0.005"). The valves themselves were reused as they were in good condition.

The heads were done by Lance Hayward at Hayward Performance in BC. (http://haywardperformance.com/)

Thanks!
Andrew
Old 02-08-2016, 01:37 AM
  #228  
964Andrew
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Oh nice, puzzle!


Old 02-08-2016, 02:06 AM
  #229  
John McM
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Originally Posted by SausageCat
Oh nice, puzzle!
Yell out if you need pics of an assembled one.
Old 02-17-2016, 10:47 AM
  #230  
964Andrew
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More puzzles!

Old 02-21-2016, 12:19 AM
  #231  
964Andrew
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Bead blasted the barrels, they look new again.

Old 02-26-2016, 12:26 AM
  #232  
964Andrew
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Engine tin and fan came back from powder coat. I wish I did the before and after to highlight the difference.






Old 02-26-2016, 10:12 AM
  #233  
Duck
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Very nice!
Old 02-26-2016, 11:03 PM
  #234  
jlewis21
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:17 AM
  #235  
964Andrew
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Quick update: Working on rear oil lines. Replaced the hoses with Elephant Racing ones as I did for the front oil cooler lines.

Old 03-17-2016, 03:23 PM
  #236  
motts
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Looks like a very nice outcome to be.
Old 03-17-2016, 05:40 PM
  #237  
aceking4u
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Jesus christ this tread is beautiful. Do you plan on making a spreadsheet of what you spent so current and future members can get an idea of how much it cost for similar jobs. Sorry I'm new and was just curious. You do not need to share that information if you're comfortable with it.

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Old 03-17-2016, 05:53 PM
  #238  
964Andrew
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I can do a cost breakdown once the project is finished, but it will be useless as a reference since I'm buying all parts in CAD and the dealership gets them from US and Germany. USD to CAD has fluctuated as much as 35% since I started the project.

New and restored parts list will be probably more useful.
Old 03-17-2016, 10:25 PM
  #239  
Super90
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Very curious about the hoses. I assume you sent Elephant your originals and had them remove the rubber sections and replace the hoses on your original metal end fittings?

Also, the hose circled below is normally braided steel as it is so close to the exhaust. Did Elephant feel their black cloth hose could deal with the heat?





Old 03-17-2016, 11:26 PM
  #240  
964Andrew
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I crimped the hoses locally and only got the parts from Elephant. The metal lines are the old lines that I media blasted and painted with POR-15. The hose that is close to the exhaust will be wrapped in ceramic ultra high heat resistant collar (http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-resist...eving/=11l37bf).

My OEM hose in that area was just a rubber one wrapped in a heat resistant collar (pictured just above the line).

I was seriously considering getting the SS braided hose in that place and I still might do it, but everywhere I went I met resistance to crimping SS braided hoses. Some shops said out right they won't do it. When asked why I got these responses.

- SS braiding won't compress enough to provide good long lasting seal
- SS braiding under high levels of compression will eat through the rubber underneath
- Only way to secure SS braided hose is to put it in to a proper crimp fitting that allows for separation of the sleeve and hose. I was able to find these fittings but they had only AN ends.

In the past I wasn't able to find local place that would weld on AN fittings when I was doing the front cooler lines so I just gave up on that solution all together.

I'm thinking a <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">11000F</span> 1100F heat resistant collar should be just fine, what do you guys think?

Thanks!
Andrew

Last edited by 964Andrew; 03-18-2016 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Typo edit should be: 1100F


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