Bitter-Sweet Beginning
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bitter-Sweet Beginning - Need Advice
I have purchased 89 Carrera 4 for a race car project and had it shipped from Ontario to Alberta. The car had an engine issue and therefore was a perfect candidate for a rebuild and upgrade. Previous owners have to be commended for paint care as the car presented itself beautifully and did not show the years or millage in paint quality.
Unfortunately the shipping company have not taken similar care of the car and allowed this to happen. It looks like an battery acid drip from the car up top and it is on every panel on the car. The worst is the roof and rear of the car. It has eaten through the clear coat and in some cases through the paint as well.
Im in the process of dealing with the shipping company and insurance, but legal and financial responsibilities aside, what would be the best way to remedy this? Strip and paint or sand the clear, correct the paint and re-spray clear?
Unfortunately the shipping company have not taken similar care of the car and allowed this to happen. It looks like an battery acid drip from the car up top and it is on every panel on the car. The worst is the roof and rear of the car. It has eaten through the clear coat and in some cases through the paint as well.
Im in the process of dealing with the shipping company and insurance, but legal and financial responsibilities aside, what would be the best way to remedy this? Strip and paint or sand the clear, correct the paint and re-spray clear?
Last edited by 964Andrew; 04-30-2014 at 02:28 PM. Reason: Need Advice
#3
Rennlist Member
Wow, those pictures look ugly! Really sorry to see what happened.
Last edited by 911Jetta; 09-19-2013 at 01:03 AM.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Day 1 (After hours on the phone dealing with shipping company and insurance)
2 hours in to removing the interior (20+ years have not treated the floor insulation well and there was some water damage (previous and current). What is this stuff made from anyway, and what it is glued with - it still holds extremely well.
Driver, passenger, front and rear floor panels are now naked. No rust - Yeeey!
Looking at the floor layout, it looks way different than other cars I worked on. Is there a common direction as how to fill the hollow areas between tubular frame if at all, or just leave it as is, spray some sort of bed liner and mount alu floor plates?
Weight saving is important to me.
2 hours in to removing the interior (20+ years have not treated the floor insulation well and there was some water damage (previous and current). What is this stuff made from anyway, and what it is glued with - it still holds extremely well.
Driver, passenger, front and rear floor panels are now naked. No rust - Yeeey!
Looking at the floor layout, it looks way different than other cars I worked on. Is there a common direction as how to fill the hollow areas between tubular frame if at all, or just leave it as is, spray some sort of bed liner and mount alu floor plates?
Weight saving is important to me.
#7
Nordschleife Master
Yes the glue is tough to remove and yes you need to get or make floor boards for the front foot wells.
You'll find lots of threads on here about this. Here's mine for starters:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ll-thread.html
You'll find lots of threads on here about this. Here's mine for starters:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ll-thread.html
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#8
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Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
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If it's a race car I would pocket the (substantial!) settlement and use Plasti-dip to cover all blemishes.
Owning a race car will drain the receiving pocket in short order I believe
Owning a race car will drain the receiving pocket in short order I believe
#9
IHI KING!
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Sorry to see the damage. Hope you can get it repaired and on the road soon.
Back in the mid-70's. My parents bought a Mazda GLC. The car was yellow but had white spots all over the roof and hood. Turns out it had been damaged by battery acid during shipment. The dealer painted the whole car for them to repair it.
Back in the mid-70's. My parents bought a Mazda GLC. The car was yellow but had white spots all over the roof and hood. Turns out it had been damaged by battery acid during shipment. The dealer painted the whole car for them to repair it.
#10
Rennlist Member
For a track car, Plastidip would completely hid any imperfections and add an additional layer of protection. Plus you can easily change the color or design a unique livery or a jelly bean color...
#15
Depends on your wants, but I'd get compensated for the job of a full respray, but instead just have the exterior cleaned and prepped for a nice vinyl wrap. Its easier to clean and you won't feel bad if it gets thrashed at the track as much as fresh paint.