kos11-12

Very clean wiring , so your original + battery cables goes in to the 300 A box with suitable connectors .
I may copy you ,
I like to see your pull cable , mine is still hanging in the boot , it's a little wire loop I bought from Rennline, I was thinking of a way of having the loop out just for track days, between the bonnet and frame,

Rey Gunn

This is one of the best build threads I've ever seen! Great job Rob! She's looking real good! She'll be brand new when she's all said and done! Hats off to you sir!

Vandit

Literally better than new. Amazing! This deserves to be parked at the workshop window at the museum in Zuffenhausen.

robt964

Thanks for the supportive comments guys, this sure isn't going to be a museum piece or even a daily driver really. I wanted to build a totally solid car with durability and reliability top of the list. Something for example we could takeoff in for 2 weeks at a time, blasting through the entire length of the Alps, euro touring and taking in one or two track days on the way back kind of car

The car has been de-tech'd and future proofed where possible but there are still some changes to make. For example I'd like to ditch the CCU, it's loom and all it's complexity. One day it's going to go wrong and it's going to be expensive. Instead I'd rather fit a much simpler solution like that fitted on earlier cars. Something with a few slider controls that operate cables to move the ducts and direct the air etc. A simple manual mixer temperature control. I know the CCU was designed to solve all the short comings of a system like this but for me, it's unnecessary.

robt964

Today's work. Made up a mount to hold the engine loom plugs in the position where the big fuse box used to be.



Made some replacement aluminium out-riggers that attach to the lower edge of the shark fins.



New rear lights and reflector and number plates on







What the...... Within 10 minutes of being on the car and sat in the sunshine the darn thing was misting up!!! These lights are so well sealed they can hold a vacuum through the vent pipe. I give up.



I still have a very large list of things to complete but at the moment just concentrating on those required to pass the MOT test (annual road worthy inspection). Those being, sorting out the wires and switches that once was the center console, and installing the headlights. Some thinking time required for the later as I've noticed the thread in the little metal tab that fastens the drivers side lamp unit and ring has stripped. That was bound to happen at some point when expecting a 2mm thick piece of steel to hold such a small thread. I guess the answer is to weld a nut on the back of the tab?

Lemass Automotive

Indeed. Weld a nut or fit a stainless rivnut.
Looking good in the sun though rob. Not long now

Captain Ahab Jr.

Rob, your car looks fantastic, a credit to your skills

To your headlight fixing problem, what about bonding a flanged nut on the back of the metal tab and then laying up a couple of plies of carbon to stop it rotating

robt964

Yes. I cut off the original +ve battery clamp from the thick twin main leads. The starter cable now goes direct to the kill switch, and the other cable (which is infact a 3-core cable for fuel pump, stereo and engine electrics) connects to the box. The ABS and PS are also routed to the box. The box then has a jump lead back to the same switch terminal as the starter lead.

I buy all my car electrics stuff from these guys. One stop shop
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...tconn.php#jbox

I don't plan to fit an external kill switch since its not a dedicated track car. I do have one of the red pull handles and cable tho that I'll mount beneath the lower edge of the dash just under where the ash tray is. Still visible and reachable by both ocupants. When I do use it on track I'll just thread a piece of red cord with a loop in the end out the back of the bonnet seal by the windscreen.

robt964

Thanks for the suggestions chaps. Tom, is there enough metal to fit a rivnut there? I'm guessing the bolt is M6 which will mean drilling a 8.5 hole to take the insert. The hole is close to the edge as it is, so if it does fit it must be *really* close. Think I'll opt for the welded nut to be on the safe side. I'll do the pass side too since thats bound to go the same way sooner or later.

kos11-12

beautiful and clever,
thanks for sharing,
and great number plate, a nice number plate finishes well a car ,

Lemass Automotive

I havent tried the rivnut option myself, it was just brought up in a previous thread.
I always weld them.

g60pops

Pretty sure it is a M5

Zingari

Reference the rear lamps misting at the sides. They all do that

robt964

With the MOT day looming it was time to tackle the switches and wiring left over from the center console.
Since I don't have a stereo fitted, the switches will be moving into that area of the dashboard. I took a look at the rennline switch plate that already does this but there was a problem. It only comes in 3 or 6 switch holes and I have 4 switches. Only option was to make one.

I took a piece 1.5mm autoclaved carbon (very stiff and much easier to accurately shape since it's very hard) and with very careful measuring cutting and filing made the 4 switch holes. With a similar piece of angle section I made up the runners that the switches would clip into. The dobs of epoxy you can see are not to hold it together but instead to positively locate the base of the switches to prevent the slightest of movements. The epoxy won't stick to the plastic of the switches so they were then clipped in until the epoxy had dried.



I then took a regular aftermarket stereo cover plate and cut a hole in the face to accommodate the rear of the switches.



The carbon plate would then be bonded to the plastic face plate like this.




I spend a while experimenting with sprays and techniques to get a finish that most closely resembles the other plastic surfaces of the dash. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.





A quick trial fit to make sure everything goes back together..



Sorted the wiring and connected it all back up. I didn't have a connector for the back of the 993 spoiler switch so for now I just used a regular 3way connector and soldered it direct to the switch terminal.



Really pleased with the end result. Looks like it belongs there



Running through the last few odds-n-sods in prep for Saturday mornings MOT
After putting the head lamp units back together (I welded nuts on the silly little tin-pot steel tabs that fastening bolt goes through) and testing I find the drivers side light is blown Grrrrrrr

J81 JKR

You have skills, looks great!