VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread
#121
German car tuning math....
therefore, by your reasoning, a 1200 hp LS3 is also a conservative tune.
I'm heading to the safety of the nearest bomb shelter the day I hear your idea of anything ranging from not conservative~max power tune.
still, please don't take my dry post as a slight. I like the I-5 idea, and the work you've put in....
looking forward to seeing the finished car.
therefore, by your reasoning, a 1200 hp LS3 is also a conservative tune.
I'm heading to the safety of the nearest bomb shelter the day I hear your idea of anything ranging from not conservative~max power tune.
still, please don't take my dry post as a slight. I like the I-5 idea, and the work you've put in....
looking forward to seeing the finished car.
Last edited by alxdgr8; 08-20-2014 at 03:35 PM.
#123
I'll be running pump gas, so I won't be doing these power levels (E85). I'll probably be around 500whp on 92oct. Closest E85 pump is about 35 miles away I can get 101oct unleaded though, so I might have to make a tune for that.
#124
I figured I'd check in here after lurking about all this time.
The UrQuattro in Alex's thread is my car, he's been in it a couple times at differing states of tune. We pulled some big numbers on this engine on a rather conservative dyno but there's more in it. Im again out of fuel with 1000cc injectors, been maxing them out and the is thirsty for more. I've backed the boost down to ~25psi until I can get some more fuel to it.
As mentioned earlier another benefit of this engine is the VVT, it is a night/day difference when we have it enabled. Currently we are running it as a simple on/off configuration but the best gains will come once we pull the data logs and crunch some numbers. Beyond that we will get it set up with PWM for very detailed control of the operation.
The UrQuattro in Alex's thread is my car, he's been in it a couple times at differing states of tune. We pulled some big numbers on this engine on a rather conservative dyno but there's more in it. Im again out of fuel with 1000cc injectors, been maxing them out and the is thirsty for more. I've backed the boost down to ~25psi until I can get some more fuel to it.
As mentioned earlier another benefit of this engine is the VVT, it is a night/day difference when we have it enabled. Currently we are running it as a simple on/off configuration but the best gains will come once we pull the data logs and crunch some numbers. Beyond that we will get it set up with PWM for very detailed control of the operation.
#126
#127
I figured I'd check in here after lurking about all this time.
The UrQuattro in Alex's thread is my car, he's been in it a couple times at differing states of tune. We pulled some big numbers on this engine on a rather conservative dyno but there's more in it. Im again out of fuel with 1000cc injectors, been maxing them out and the is thirsty for more. I've backed the boost down to ~25psi until I can get some more fuel to it.
As mentioned earlier another benefit of this engine is the VVT, it is a night/day difference when we have it enabled. Currently we are running it as a simple on/off configuration but the best gains will come once we pull the data logs and crunch some numbers. Beyond that we will get it set up with PWM for very detailed control of the operation.
The UrQuattro in Alex's thread is my car, he's been in it a couple times at differing states of tune. We pulled some big numbers on this engine on a rather conservative dyno but there's more in it. Im again out of fuel with 1000cc injectors, been maxing them out and the is thirsty for more. I've backed the boost down to ~25psi until I can get some more fuel to it.
As mentioned earlier another benefit of this engine is the VVT, it is a night/day difference when we have it enabled. Currently we are running it as a simple on/off configuration but the best gains will come once we pull the data logs and crunch some numbers. Beyond that we will get it set up with PWM for very detailed control of the operation.
3br/3ba, 1800sq ft. $1725/mth + utilities
#128
Nothing new on the 968, but I did get my lift this weekend. I'll document the install as I get it done. Probably will spend a week or two planning and then a weekend to install.
IMG_20141101_072911813 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
IMG_20141102_230622199 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
IMG_20141101_072911813 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
IMG_20141102_230622199 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
Last edited by alxdgr8; 11-03-2014 at 04:32 AM.
#129
Did some modeling to figure out the best place to put it to. Also did the math to figure out what the best width was such that all my cars would fit and could drive through if necessary. Ended up with 120" total outer width, which gives a 'drive-thru' width of about 86". My Touareg is the widest at 76", so that gives 5" of clearance on each side if I wanted to drive through. All other cars are 66-68" wide. I also have plenty of room to walk around all sides.
Might get to marking out the drill spots this weekend, maybe next. Still need to plan wiring for the power, but I'm hoping to get it up and running by the end of Thanksgiving!
Lift Model 3 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
Lift Model 2 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
Might get to marking out the drill spots this weekend, maybe next. Still need to plan wiring for the power, but I'm hoping to get it up and running by the end of Thanksgiving!
Lift Model 3 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
Lift Model 2 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
#131
#132
No updates, been busy with the lift install and organizing the garage. Priority has been on some Audi projects since they're closer to completion. I'll probably start working on the 968 again by spring/summer.
Good news is the lift is in and functional!
IMG_20150103_124322818 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
Good news is the lift is in and functional!
IMG_20150103_124322818 by alxdgr8, on Flickr
#133
Back-dating the chain tensioner setup
This allows you to back-date a new engine to the early style chain setup. Why would you want to do this? This allows you to find an early forged crank, and run it in a later block that's much easier to find with lower miles. This is the route I'm now taking as I found an early forged crank on ebay for $150 shipped. I will back-date the newer 35k mile engine and not have to buy a $1200 TT-RS crank to get a forged one.
Early chain parts diagram: http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen...ent_id=2249070
Late chain parts diagram: http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen...ent_id=3473991
Parts that are the same:
Parts that are different ([Name] [Old P/N] [New P/N] [Cost for Old]:
This brings you to about $510 in new OEM parts to back-date the engine. Another alternative is to find an early motor for cheap (good or bad condition, you can find them for $200) and grab the timing stuff off of that. You'll most likely want to refresh the chain and guides, but that'll save you a few dollars on buying new gears. Or if you buy an early motor with a known forged crank but with a lot of miles, you could look for a later motor with low miles and combine two to make one.
This allows you to back-date a new engine to the early style chain setup. Why would you want to do this? This allows you to find an early forged crank, and run it in a later block that's much easier to find with lower miles. This is the route I'm now taking as I found an early forged crank on ebay for $150 shipped. I will back-date the newer 35k mile engine and not have to buy a $1200 TT-RS crank to get a forged one.
Early chain parts diagram: http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen...ent_id=2249070
Late chain parts diagram: http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen...ent_id=3473991
Parts that are the same:
- camshaft adjuster unit 07K109083F
- gear wheel shaft 07K109224
- seal 07K109235A
- mounting 07K109237A
- socket head bolt with inner multipoint head 06E109281A
- slide rail 07K109469G
- chain tensioner 07K109510B
- slide rail 07K109513D
- chain sprocket 07K109571D
- multi-point socket head bolt with collar N 91124601
- socket head bolt with inner multipoint head (kombi) N 91050202
- socket head bolt with inner multipoint head N 91099101
- cylinder pin WHT000041
- threaded pin WHT000195
Parts that are different ([Name] [Old P/N] [New P/N] [Cost for Old]:
- chain sprocket 07K109077D 07K109077E $102
- camshaft timing chain 07K109120A 07K109231A $113
- chain tensioner 07K109217E 07K109510B $64
- camshaft timing chain 07K109231A 07K109158B $116
- chain tensioner 07K109467B 07K109467F $46
- chain sprocket 07K115121E 07K115121F $36
- slide rail 07K109514D 07K109513D $33
This brings you to about $510 in new OEM parts to back-date the engine. Another alternative is to find an early motor for cheap (good or bad condition, you can find them for $200) and grab the timing stuff off of that. You'll most likely want to refresh the chain and guides, but that'll save you a few dollars on buying new gears. Or if you buy an early motor with a known forged crank but with a lot of miles, you could look for a later motor with low miles and combine two to make one.
#134
Forged Crank Identification
Here's how to identify a forged crank from a cast crank. This is handy when browsing cranks on ebay, BUT BE CAREFUL. Make sure that the pictures displayed are the actual item and not stock photos. Also, contact the seller if they list multiple items being available, but only provide one picture. Make sure you get the exact crank pictured that you've identified as being forged.
Forged Crank:
Look for the large, wide flash lines on the lobes of the crank. These should be very noticeable as shown in the photo below.
Cast crank:
Cast cranks do not have the large flash lines like a forged crank does. They have very small, thin lines that are sometimes very hard to see.
Here's how to identify a forged crank from a cast crank. This is handy when browsing cranks on ebay, BUT BE CAREFUL. Make sure that the pictures displayed are the actual item and not stock photos. Also, contact the seller if they list multiple items being available, but only provide one picture. Make sure you get the exact crank pictured that you've identified as being forged.
Forged Crank:
Look for the large, wide flash lines on the lobes of the crank. These should be very noticeable as shown in the photo below.
Cast crank:
Cast cranks do not have the large flash lines like a forged crank does. They have very small, thin lines that are sometimes very hard to see.
#135
New dyno charts out there for the Borg Warner EFR turbos. I'm definitely going to consider one of these turbos for my build.
Here's a pump gas (91oct) TT-RS with an Iroz Motorsport EFR7163 turbo and manifold.
Here's a pump gas (91oct) TT-RS with an Iroz Motorsport EFR7163 turbo and manifold.