VW/Audi 07K (2.5L 20V I5) Swap Thread
#2281
Just as a data point, the cast block has made over 1000 hp without the main girdle. LPS finally had a stock block / mains failure at around 1100 hp. With that being said, the better you can support the mains the better off you will be.
#2282
Those using the Lokar throttle cable, how did you hook up the pedal? Drill off the barb and just use the pin?
Edit: Since I am removing the cruise control I removed the inner cable from the cruise control cable and put it in the Lokar cable, works fine and has the same end as the factory throttle cable. You could probably do the same thing with the factory throttle cable but I am not sure if it is long enough since I don't have my engine in the car yet.
Edit: Since I am removing the cruise control I removed the inner cable from the cruise control cable and put it in the Lokar cable, works fine and has the same end as the factory throttle cable. You could probably do the same thing with the factory throttle cable but I am not sure if it is long enough since I don't have my engine in the car yet.
Last edited by Sixline; 09-14-2020 at 02:15 AM.
#2283
I'm assuming the cast iron block is the regular one from beetles & Jettas, but haven't heard of the others. thanks for any insight!
#2284
The 2nd gen TT-RS and the face-lift RS3 (the first one available in the USA) now come with the aluminum block DAZA engine.
#2285
#2286
Those using the Lokar throttle cable, how did you hook up the pedal? Drill off the barb and just use the pin?
Edit: Since I am removing the cruise control I removed the inner cable from the cruise control cable and put it in the Lokar cable, works fine and has the same end as the factory throttle cable. You could probably do the same thing with the factory throttle cable but I am not sure if it is long enough since I don't have my engine in the car yet.
Edit: Since I am removing the cruise control I removed the inner cable from the cruise control cable and put it in the Lokar cable, works fine and has the same end as the factory throttle cable. You could probably do the same thing with the factory throttle cable but I am not sure if it is long enough since I don't have my engine in the car yet.
You can reuse the 944 pieces that attach to the pedal linkage. Remove the plastic and rubber end pieces from the 944 cable, and remove the aluminum end piece from the Lokar cable, and install the 944 pieces on the Lokar cable. It's much easier than trying to attach the aluminum Lokar end piece to the pedal linkage, IMO (I tried it a couple times and ripped my hair out in frustration before I figured out that the 944 pieces could be used).
Original 944 cable end
944 cable end with rubber part removed
944 cable end with Lokar cable
New assembly. The hole in the rubber is a little oblong, but it still installs fine on the pedal assembly.
Last edited by vt951; 09-14-2020 at 12:36 PM.
#2287
#2288
1000+whp build on a transverse car with built sleeved aluminum direct injection engine, Syvecs ECU, DSG clutches, etc is probably $30-40k but that includes more than just engine.
It would probably be a little different for a longitudinal setup, possibly a little cheaper.
#2289
He's not building longitudinal cars nowadays. Nobody currently sells an off-the-shelf dry sump that you can purchase directly. A few companies will build you an engine with a dry sump, but Iroz isn't one of them. They haven't gone dry sump yet on any of their transverse RS3/TTRS.
1000+whp build on a transverse car with built sleeved aluminum direct injection engine, Syvecs ECU, DSG clutches, etc is probably $30-40k but that includes more than just engine.
It would probably be a little different for a longitudinal setup, possibly a little cheaper.
1000+whp build on a transverse car with built sleeved aluminum direct injection engine, Syvecs ECU, DSG clutches, etc is probably $30-40k but that includes more than just engine.
It would probably be a little different for a longitudinal setup, possibly a little cheaper.
If I ever went down this path I'd just look for a long block I'd say. Would have to deal with RHD steering shaft too.
#2290
Yes, it's a shame they just build their cars for traffic light drags and maybe a bit of 1/4 mile stuff. Wonder how well those DSG transmissions are standing up to 1000+hp?
If I ever went down this path I'd just look for a long block I'd say. Would have to deal with RHD steering shaft too.
If I ever went down this path I'd just look for a long block I'd say. Would have to deal with RHD steering shaft too.
DKGEcu software.
#2291
@hinton can you comment on your performance, classification, results of running the 07k swapped 944 on the track? Are you doing wheel to wheel, time attack or just HPDE? I recall you gained a couple seconds after the swap, but I'm curious how your car would be classed, and if it would be competitive after the swap (with or w/o turbo). Also, I gave up on my motorized headlights and ordered some brackets from y'all...
#2292
@hinton can you comment on your performance, classification, results of running the 07k swapped 944 on the track? Are you doing wheel to wheel, time attack or just HPDE? I recall you gained a couple seconds after the swap, but I'm curious how your car would be classed, and if it would be competitive after the swap (with or w/o turbo). Also, I gave up on my motorized headlights and ordered some brackets from y'all...
The NA swap went 5.5 seconds faster in a like for like comparison to the stock NA lump. I think it had more in it but that was the only clean lap I had in my first session. We fought belt issues the rest if the day which has since been fixed b swapping to the TTRS crank damper.
That car (and Alan's car) was built for HPDE's. We will be building my widebody car for GridLife Time Attack. We are still deciding what class to build it for but we are aiming for Track Mod. The plan is 600+ wheel horsepower, sub 2500#, lots of rubber and lots of aero. It should be competitive although the class leader is currently a 800hp twin turbo vette with a sequential transmission. As with any type of racing, he who has the most money typically wins.
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rex! (09-21-2020)
#2293
We will be building my widebody car for GridLife Time Attack. We are still deciding what class to build it for but we are aiming for Track Mod. The plan is 600+ wheel horsepower, sub 2500#, lots of rubber and lots of aero. It should be competitive although the class leader is currently a 800hp twin turbo vette with a sequential transmission. As with any type of racing, he who has the most money typically wins.
Guess I won't be winning! Just had my 1st kid, wife's already suspicious about car parts... current expenses have been done in the name of safety. I keep telling her you can't race a house.. she doesn't get it
#2294
Can't wait to see it, you should hook up with the Gears & Gasoline guys to get a high quality deep dive when you make your debut. I hope I can participate in 2021 at a lesser spec. It looks like rules prevent the 07k from being a contender for street, due to +1 cylinder (if you argue that VAG = Porsche). I was wondering if an exception could be made, given the displacement difference being ~0. Otherwise.. I believe the lowest tier an 07k swapped 944 (with or w/o turbo) could enter is street modified.. have you already have made changes that prohibit you from street mod? Do you have a build thread outside of your video content? It's time consuming to reference video content for detailed information/decision making guidance (for instance your suspension spring rate difference).
The main issue with Street Mod for the widebody build is tire width limitations (285mm) as we will be running at least 275 front and 315 rear. Track Mod also allows for more aero. Street Mod would be a great class for Alan's car and per the rules there is no issue with the turbo 07K swap. However, as with Track Mod, the class leader has $100k wrapped up in his car and it will require some serious effort and money to compete. Time Attack is a nice hybrid between DE's and wheel to wheel racing though and you should be able to have a blast even if you aren't on the podium every race.
Funding a build. lessons from a married man:
1 - ship them to work
2 - start a side hustle to fund the hobby
3 - beg
4 - let her buy whatever the hell she wants
5 -
The following users liked this post:
Cjar (09-21-2020)
#2295
Thanks for the order!
The NA swap went 5.5 seconds faster in a like for like comparison to the stock NA lump. I think it had more in it but that was the only clean lap I had in my first session. We fought belt issues the rest if the day which has since been fixed b swapping to the TTRS crank damper.
That car (and Alan's car) was built for HPDE's. We will be building my widebody car for GridLife Time Attack. We are still deciding what class to build it for but we are aiming for Track Mod. The plan is 600+ wheel horsepower, sub 2500#, lots of rubber and lots of aero. It should be competitive although the class leader is currently a 800hp twin turbo vette with a sequential transmission. As with any type of racing, he who has the most money typically wins.
The NA swap went 5.5 seconds faster in a like for like comparison to the stock NA lump. I think it had more in it but that was the only clean lap I had in my first session. We fought belt issues the rest if the day which has since been fixed b swapping to the TTRS crank damper.
That car (and Alan's car) was built for HPDE's. We will be building my widebody car for GridLife Time Attack. We are still deciding what class to build it for but we are aiming for Track Mod. The plan is 600+ wheel horsepower, sub 2500#, lots of rubber and lots of aero. It should be competitive although the class leader is currently a 800hp twin turbo vette with a sequential transmission. As with any type of racing, he who has the most money typically wins.