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Old 10-19-2012, 02:07 AM
  #181  
TonyG
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Originally Posted by 95ONE
Now that I've slept, I've decided that I could do a little better in this direction. Not perfection, but as good as it's going to get. I dimpled up the bottom of the ports to better match the short radius.

I also finished the last custom part of the drive train to make it all do the Porsche/Chevy dance. It's the pilot bearing adapter. Good thing the 944 bearing is smaller. That made this possible. This was my second attempt and took very tiny cuts around both diameters to make sure there was JUST the smallest amount of interference fit. It took quite a while to make this little guy.

Now I can install the clutch and move on to the hydraulic slave cylinder shimming. I had to make a special engine stand that lets me have clear access to the flywheel. I'll post a pic of that too.

Here are some pics.





You should whack off the straight pipes.

Use a pre-bent bend connected to the flange that has a similar radius to that of the port floor radius. You can squeeze it to ovalize it to get the port floor aligned, when weld it up.

You can cut it off a 3-4 inches from the port to check your port alignment. Then when it's where you want it it, you can weld back the bends and continue on your merry way. Just keep the port floor nice out to the primary.

Right now, you have a radius port floor, going to a straight pipe, which will go to another radius. Why? In the end, you have to basically get out of the port and turn down anyway. You're making more work for yourself.

:-)

I love this arm-chair quarter backing.....

ha

(had to say it)

TonyG

PS> I wish that's all I had to worry about these days....
Old 10-19-2012, 03:49 AM
  #182  
95ONE
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If only I knew which way the turn was going to go. I just don't know yet. And doing this twice just isn't in the cards. I agree with with all your advice, I just can't take it. Diminishing returns really hits hard past what I've just done. If this were a production piece, I wouldn't have even bothered with this step. I would have designed the header in a stepped fashion , then I probably wouldn't do half the work I just did! LOL. It's just too much to the -nth degree that just won't return more than 3-5 total whp that would force the piece to be triple the price. I've chased this wild goose one too many times.

This is just a tiny addition to the original plan that took very little time. I've seen enough exhaust manifolds to know, without a doubt, this is as good as it gets without going to a full pro race header for a sponsored team. Even then I'm not sure just how much further they would take them. That is in design, not materials. I will be making this out of mild steel and Coating it. Stainless is not in the cards.

But yeah, I kinda like being the arm chair quarterback every now and then too.

Last edited by 95ONE; 10-19-2012 at 04:23 AM.
Old 10-19-2012, 03:42 PM
  #183  
TonyG
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I hear ya...

That's why I just stuck with my RH headers.... which BTW... do work pretty good based on the dyno results in a shop that builds LSx based street and race engines all day long (RPM Motors). They've done a ton of built LS6's and they say that mine is up there and that the headers are obviously working. That the only difference between my engine and several other like-built LS6's using expensive long tube merge collected headers is about 10RWHP.

So I never pursued it.

I just wish the headers were V banded from the start. I hate 3 bolt header flanges.


TonyG

Originally Posted by 95ONE
If only I knew which way the turn was going to go. I just don't know yet. And doing this twice just isn't in the cards. I agree with with all your advice, I just can't take it. Diminishing returns really hits hard past what I've just done. If this were a production piece, I wouldn't have even bothered with this step. I would have designed the header in a stepped fashion , then I probably wouldn't do half the work I just did! LOL. It's just too much to the -nth degree that just won't return more than 3-5 total whp that would force the piece to be triple the price. I've chased this wild goose one too many times.

This is just a tiny addition to the original plan that took very little time. I've seen enough exhaust manifolds to know, without a doubt, this is as good as it gets without going to a full pro race header for a sponsored team. Even then I'm not sure just how much further they would take them. That is in design, not materials. I will be making this out of mild steel and Coating it. Stainless is not in the cards.

But yeah, I kinda like being the arm chair quarterback every now and then too.
Old 10-19-2012, 07:16 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by TonyG
I hear ya...
I just wish the headers were V banded from the start. I hate 3 bolt header flanges.

TonyG
Oh, definitely. V band on everything I do for now on. The difference is too great. They add a few hundred more to the total assembly, but if you do the work yourself, the difference is completely worth it.
Old 10-28-2012, 10:32 PM
  #185  
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saw the sled today. Looking good Bruce!
Old 10-28-2012, 10:48 PM
  #186  
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Thanks Gene! Getting to this point really makes that itch to drive a whole lot .. "itchier" .

I did a final install on the motor today. May or may not have to come back out for whatever, but it should be in for the rest of the build anyway. Here she is with the newer design Delrin motor mounts instead of the solid steel. Fitment was pretty damn good. A tiny bit of clearancing here and there but It went in pretty well considering the input shaft, clutch, pilot bearing, and all mated fairly nicely too.



Last edited by 95ONE; 10-29-2012 at 03:29 PM.
Old 10-29-2012, 02:39 AM
  #187  
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That cross brace is way too slick. Nice!
Old 10-29-2012, 05:16 AM
  #188  
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Looks awesome as usual!
Old 10-29-2012, 05:18 AM
  #189  
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engine looks to low tech to be in there
Old 10-29-2012, 10:41 AM
  #190  
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Wow you've got that thing sitting low in there

Looks awesome
Old 10-29-2012, 12:21 PM
  #191  
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Default LS7 block....

Originally Posted by 95ONE

Unfortunately they are just going to HURT my current size, and cost me power. Sure, they'll be a little better than LS6 heads, which is still a strong combo.....

i heard running overbores in the LSx crates is a bad idea. but, after doing some research i thought; 'why not get high displacement from an LS7 block but, reduce the stroke for less of a street rod feel ? ...then i discovered this wasn't that uncommon; that several builders had hit upon the idea for the LS7 (w/ good results) for long service track setups that needed to make power over a longer band, like from 5,400~7,800 rpm.... the result, (for a 4.30 bore / 3.622" stroke) is 387.6 c.i.... with the choice of either LS7, LS3 or aftermarket heads, but running the short stroke, w/ a large selection of cams, just ported heads and free exhaust, you're at 600 hp+ (crank)... i don't think the 427 c.i. (4.0" stroke) is the right crank for a track car as my feeling is these engines would require rebuilds (or replacement ?) sooner.... one thing with the LS7 block is that the engines were designed to run w/ a very constant operating temperature. the cooling systems need to be watched closely.


here's one....

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_12...s/viewall.html


another on dyno....




9.67/144 MPH....



Last edited by odurandina; 10-30-2012 at 12:01 AM.
Old 10-29-2012, 03:27 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by odurandina
i think running overbores in the LSx crates is a bad idea. but, after doing some research i thought; 'why not get high displacement from an LS7 block but, reduce the stroke for less of a street rod feel ? ...then i discovered this wasn't that uncommon; that several builders had hit upon the idea for the LS7 (w/ good results) for long service track setups that needed to make power over a longer band, like from 5,400~7,800 rpm.... the result, (for a 4.30 bore / 3.622" stroke) is 387.6 c.i.... with the choice of either LS7, LS3 or aftermarket heads, but running the short stroke, w/ a large selection of cams, just ported heads and free exhaust, you're at 600 hp+ (crank)... i don't think the 427 c.i. (4.0" stroke) is the right crank for a track car as my feeling is these engines would require rebuilds (or replacement ?) sooner.... one thing with the LS7 block is that the engines were designed to run w/ a very constant operating temperature. the cooling systems need to be watched closely.
.......*****......
Old 10-29-2012, 03:35 PM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
That cross brace is way too slick. Nice!
Thank You. Like I've said, some will love it, others will hate it. It's in there one way or the other though.

Originally Posted by Duke
Looks awesome as usual!
Thanks Duke

Originally Posted by Paulyy
engine looks to low tech to be in there
Leaner is meaner. I know, I disappoint without the 3.0 turbo. But this will do nicely.

Originally Posted by blown 944
Wow you've got that thing sitting low in there

Looks awesome
Thanks Sid!. I think it looks lower in there than it really is from that angle. It's getting moved to another shop today or tomorrow. The next stage will be in a month.
Old 10-29-2012, 03:48 PM
  #194  
V2Rocket
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What kind of ground clearance do you have with the motor dropped like that?
Old 10-29-2012, 07:14 PM
  #195  
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Very nice Bruce.

I'd like to see the cross member that allowed you to drop the engine like that.

TonyG


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