Since everyone else has a V8 build thread...
#166
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#168
Rainman
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just the other day i was pondering if the rear suspension of a 2006 subaru could be adapted to a 944...looked somewhat feasible. very basic design they have (3 pivot bars and a Mac strut), but very cool still and fairly lightweight...
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![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I didn't have to calculate at all. It's designed / made specifically for this Motor by Gary Armstrong at ARE. Fantastic person to deal with - when you can get him to stop moving..
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
No need to apologize! I was going to ask for pics of the same thing! lol
Last edited by 95ONE; 05-24-2012 at 03:21 PM.
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OH... I thought this was the, Winter Project thread for a second. This is the V8 build thread.. ok.. Nothing on this front for a little while. Much on the car has to get done first.
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Since the chassis is mostly done, it's time to revisit this Thread.
I started back with the custom header.
I'm going to run stepped. Sorta. The ports off the chamber will run straight with the head port angle, not the flange angle and might be as small as 1 5/8". The collectors will be top notch with runners connecting in firing order to attempt a swirl and will neck down and back out.
10-12-13
Most of the car is done and the paint is finally finished. I have some more red accents to make, but I got the car completely painted before the Paint booth got torn down. Shop is closing this month.
Now that that is done, I can move back to the motor part of the project since the car is ready to receive it. I will start with the Engine Mounts and Headers;
The engine mounts I made were solid. I decided against it and rebuilt them to include an Isolator bushing and clear the dry sump pump, steering rack, and Leave lots of room for the header. That part took a long time. But, in a rare moment, I will leave all that explaining out and just post some pics of the final result.
1 5/8" is the size of the ports even though they are "D" shaped, so I made some 1 3/4" tubes into smaller D shapes on one side and kept the full "O" on the other. This mates the head side of the flange and port to the full tubular size of the Header. It took me quite a while to weld in all the excess space. The Header flange Kit I have is a Full "O" port and is way too big for the "D" shape, so after I made the adapter tubes, I tacked in the tubes and filled in the gaps. I then did a quick port and clean up job to keep things tidy. There is still a small amount of mis match, but It will have to stay since I don't think I will be able to bolt it up the exact same way every time. The bolt hole tolerances and fitment will be too random. So I left a little more room rather than less. I will leave the header flanges like this until the motor is in the car. I can then tack up the rest of the header at that time. At this point I get a stepped up header with hopes of scavenging. And hopefully it keeps the exhaust velocity at it's highest.
Next is the driveshaft pilot bearing adapter to fit the Porsche input shaft, a Canton Dry sump Oil pan, Clutch set up and release bearing alignment, 153 tooth starter adapter.
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0510.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0512-2.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0515-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0515-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0519-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0525-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0523-1.jpg)
I started back with the custom header.
I'm going to run stepped. Sorta. The ports off the chamber will run straight with the head port angle, not the flange angle and might be as small as 1 5/8". The collectors will be top notch with runners connecting in firing order to attempt a swirl and will neck down and back out.
10-12-13
Most of the car is done and the paint is finally finished. I have some more red accents to make, but I got the car completely painted before the Paint booth got torn down. Shop is closing this month.
Now that that is done, I can move back to the motor part of the project since the car is ready to receive it. I will start with the Engine Mounts and Headers;
The engine mounts I made were solid. I decided against it and rebuilt them to include an Isolator bushing and clear the dry sump pump, steering rack, and Leave lots of room for the header. That part took a long time. But, in a rare moment, I will leave all that explaining out and just post some pics of the final result.
1 5/8" is the size of the ports even though they are "D" shaped, so I made some 1 3/4" tubes into smaller D shapes on one side and kept the full "O" on the other. This mates the head side of the flange and port to the full tubular size of the Header. It took me quite a while to weld in all the excess space. The Header flange Kit I have is a Full "O" port and is way too big for the "D" shape, so after I made the adapter tubes, I tacked in the tubes and filled in the gaps. I then did a quick port and clean up job to keep things tidy. There is still a small amount of mis match, but It will have to stay since I don't think I will be able to bolt it up the exact same way every time. The bolt hole tolerances and fitment will be too random. So I left a little more room rather than less. I will leave the header flanges like this until the motor is in the car. I can then tack up the rest of the header at that time. At this point I get a stepped up header with hopes of scavenging. And hopefully it keeps the exhaust velocity at it's highest.
Next is the driveshaft pilot bearing adapter to fit the Porsche input shaft, a Canton Dry sump Oil pan, Clutch set up and release bearing alignment, 153 tooth starter adapter.
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0510.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0512-2.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0515-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0515-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0519-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0525-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0523-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0508.jpg)
#176
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The big deal with header design at the port, is that the floor of the exhaust port is maintained into the primary. That's where there's power to be had.
The port has to maintain its laminar flow around the bend. Any steps or gaps screw that up and flow is reduced.
Also... you need to radius the pipe where it meets the port so that you have a smooth continuous radius (without sharp cheater angles) out of the port and gradually downward .
That's probably more important than the collector shape.
If you do it right, get the proper shape primaries and merge collector... you'll maybe see another 10-15RWHP over what you get from the Renegade Headers (out our power levels)
TonyG
PS> That's why I didn't bother with spending another $2k on high end custom built headers.... :-)
The port has to maintain its laminar flow around the bend. Any steps or gaps screw that up and flow is reduced.
Also... you need to radius the pipe where it meets the port so that you have a smooth continuous radius (without sharp cheater angles) out of the port and gradually downward .
That's probably more important than the collector shape.
If you do it right, get the proper shape primaries and merge collector... you'll maybe see another 10-15RWHP over what you get from the Renegade Headers (out our power levels)
TonyG
PS> That's why I didn't bother with spending another $2k on high end custom built headers.... :-)
#177
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The big deal with header design at the port, is that the floor of the exhaust port is maintained into the primary. That's where there's power to be had.
The port has to maintain its laminar flow around the bend. Any steps or gaps screw that up and flow is reduced.
Also... you need to radius the pipe where it meets the port so that you have a smooth continuous radius (without sharp cheater angles) out of the port and gradually downward .
That's probably more important than the collector shape.
If you do it right, get the proper shape primaries and merge collector... you'll maybe see another 10-15RWHP over what you get from the Renegade Headers (out our power levels)
TonyG
PS> That's why I didn't bother with spending another $2k on high end custom built headers.... :-)
The port has to maintain its laminar flow around the bend. Any steps or gaps screw that up and flow is reduced.
Also... you need to radius the pipe where it meets the port so that you have a smooth continuous radius (without sharp cheater angles) out of the port and gradually downward .
That's probably more important than the collector shape.
If you do it right, get the proper shape primaries and merge collector... you'll maybe see another 10-15RWHP over what you get from the Renegade Headers (out our power levels)
TonyG
PS> That's why I didn't bother with spending another $2k on high end custom built headers.... :-)
EXACTLY. I am trying to achieve that exact thing, but getting the header to bolt in the exact spot where the bottom radius connects perfectly will prove to be difficult at best. Very difficult. 2 more days of work would have to be done to get the bottom radius perfect. I'm not sure If I'm committed to that right now. Finishing the project is priority and the work I have done so far is better than 98% of any Header out there. The collector will be a Burns "STYLE" and will do the system justice.
- What I know and you guys don't (yet) is that I double checked my combustion chamber size and it is cut out to a 4.1 bore!!!!! I just bitched out my head porter. I want to throw up. We discussed boring it out for a future date, and he took that as it needed to happen now. So flow is already all screwed up. I'm pretty sick about it and just want to throw these heads through his window. This is why the intake port is so much bigger than I asked for. He thought that IS WHAT I ASKED FOR.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
The plan is to just get her together and running. I'll polish and perfect the Header later. maybe. I just want to drive the damn thing. So damn bad.
I'm sure many of you know exactly what I am saying.
Last edited by 95ONE; 10-13-2012 at 09:23 PM.
#178
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Thanks! This part of the project should have the most work over the next month.
EXACTLY. I am trying to achieve that exact thing, but getting the header to bolt in the exact spot where the bottom radius connects perfectly will prove to be difficult at best. Very difficult. 2 more days of work would have to be done to get the bottom radius perfect. I'm not sure If I'm committed to that right now. Finishing the project is priority and the work I have done so far is better than 98% of any Header out there. The collector will be a Burns "STYLE" and will do the system justice.
- What I know and you guys don't (yet) is that I double checked my combustion chamber size and it is cut out to a 4.1 bore!!!!! I just bitched out my head porter. I want to throw up. We discussed boring it out for a future date, and he took that as it needed to happen now. So flow is already all screwed up. I'm pretty sick about it and just want to throw these heads through his window. This is why the intake port is so much bigger than I asked for. He thought that IS WHAT I ASKED FOR.
So these heads will Rock the hell out flow for a 383 cubic inch motor or larger. I don't doubt it. Unfortunately they are just going to HURT my current size, and cost me power. Sure, they'll be a little better than LS6 heads, which is still a strong combo. Just not the $3K worth of Heads I paid for this exact combo. .. ... ... .. sigh. $2200 would have gotten me a fantastically proven set of Trick Flow heads proven to make 500whp on this combo. After all I've been through and learned, I STILL did it wrong. And I knew better. ![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
The plan is to just get her together and running. I'll polish and perfect the Header later. maybe. I just want to drive the damn thing. So damn bad.
I'm sure many of you know exactly what I am saying.
EXACTLY. I am trying to achieve that exact thing, but getting the header to bolt in the exact spot where the bottom radius connects perfectly will prove to be difficult at best. Very difficult. 2 more days of work would have to be done to get the bottom radius perfect. I'm not sure If I'm committed to that right now. Finishing the project is priority and the work I have done so far is better than 98% of any Header out there. The collector will be a Burns "STYLE" and will do the system justice.
- What I know and you guys don't (yet) is that I double checked my combustion chamber size and it is cut out to a 4.1 bore!!!!! I just bitched out my head porter. I want to throw up. We discussed boring it out for a future date, and he took that as it needed to happen now. So flow is already all screwed up. I'm pretty sick about it and just want to throw these heads through his window. This is why the intake port is so much bigger than I asked for. He thought that IS WHAT I ASKED FOR.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
The plan is to just get her together and running. I'll polish and perfect the Header later. maybe. I just want to drive the damn thing. So damn bad.
I'm sure many of you know exactly what I am saying.
Just get a set of core LS6 heads and my head shop will run them through their CNC machine for $600 and be done with it.
And their program must be decent because the LS6 is making 461RWHP/400RWTQ on pump gas.
Just a thought....
TonyG
#179
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I also finished the last custom part of the drive train to make it all do the Porsche/Chevy dance. It's the pilot bearing adapter. Good thing the 944 bearing is smaller. That made this possible. This was my second attempt and took very tiny cuts around both diameters to make sure there was JUST the smallest amount of interference fit. It took quite a while to make this little guy.
Now I can install the clutch and move on to the hydraulic slave cylinder shimming. I had to make a special engine stand that lets me have clear access to the flywheel. I'll post a pic of that too.
Here are some pics.
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0547-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0539.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0537-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0527-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0528-1.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0531.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0549.jpg)
![](http://i508.photobucket.com/albums/s324/95ONE/IMAG0550.jpg)
Last edited by 95ONE; 10-19-2012 at 11:55 PM.