95ONE

That is a perfect example of spending 2-3x's more money than you have to with the same result.

$3K Dry sump pump and Pan~? My pump and pan were half that and are the same premium roots style rotors. The other set up is certainly BALLER STATUS, but nothing more. The Jesel Rockers are awesome and I would love to have those, but The stock rockers with the Trunion upgrades are more than enough for 7K rpm operation. I'm truly doubting I need anything near the planned 7K RPM limit of my motor. 500whp - @580 crank hp can be / has been achieved well below that with the 5.7 motor.

Try pricing out an LS7 lately? Just get a used LS3 block and work that. 550whp can seriously be had for half the price of the LS7 in that article.


LAST EDIT FOR THIS;

Even still, if this is the way you want to go, it would be a fantastic motor with serious long term reliability hopes. If you have the means to do it, and like the "unique build" factor, that build would be seriously fantastic. I'm guessing the sound at 8K rpm ought to be pretty crazy too. And in that case, just go flat crank for the full incredible sound and insane build status.

95ONE

Here are a few pics of the car slammed at lest 2-3" lower than stock. - I have no reference to what stock is anymore to tell you the truth. It was at what i thought was the perfect height, but everything dropped lower when I installed the motor. The lowest bracket and bolt on the car is at 3.5" in the pic. I will raise it back up to 4" of clearance. I feel that is more than ample for a race car. My NSX was a little lower than that for everyday driving.

You can see the starter ring in one of the pics in the background. I had to use an OLD Chevy starter ring that is smaller than the current LS style starter ring. Otherwise that damn thing would be the lowest spot on the car. That cant be allowed. - One of the many things you have to think of when customizing so much. But the downside is that I have buy a $400 Tilton Starter that combines the LS bolt pattern and the smaller starter ring stance. That's the cost of ground clearance though.

The problem isn't the cross member. It's the Steering rack. It sits so damn high. I cut off the steering rack mounting tabs from the stock cross member and welded them lower with a wider stance. - This made my bump steer issue completely ridiculous. I have yet to figure out how I'm going to attack this. IN addition, to lower the steering rack, I had to cut out the shape of the large part that points at the steering wheel - INTO the cross member. That took about... forever. I did cut about 1/2 out of the top of the cross member, but not a whole lot. I also added more cross braces on the bottom side and welded in a 3/8 flat plate on the very bottom

As for the last picture, there may look like a whole lot of room, but there still wasn't enough for a high rise intake like I originally planned. ..

Paulyy

Like i've said a few times, plenty of room for a 4204

That thing is seriously looking cool though.

V2Rocket

What front sway bar/brackets will you use? On my car with the stock drop brackets, on stock-height front tires and 1" lowering springs puts me at 4"from ground to the bracket, the lowest point on my car.

95ONE

Just something simple that I will fabricate.

piperporsche180944

This is such a sweet build, one day when I get patience Ill build a LSX 951... Until then Ill just drive the Vette as the "fast" car :P

Keep up the good work!

95ONE

Robstah, this is exactly what I am researching as an option right now. It would certainly work AS LONG AS THE PIVOT POINT IS AT THE TOP OF THE RED, not the bottom. Safety and doing it right is a different story. I'm almost to the point of making something like that and giving a few strong welds to ensure it stays in position. It will have to be researched and designed with a triple redundancy system like NASA. I can't stand the though of losing steering because I screwed it up.



The vette should be a good satisfier until then. Thanks, I will certainly try. I'm kinda beat right now from moving a whole shop though..

TonyG

No. It won't work anymore than the tire rod being at the extreme angle. The geometry will be exactly the same.



TonyG

V2Rocket

..too risky to just drop the steering attachment on the spindle an inch or so? with all the other fabrication you've done, should be easy...

TonyG

He has no choice. He has to drop the tie rod attachment point at the steering knuckle for any geometry correction (that or raise the steering rack).

And it's very common to use what's known as a bump steer kit to extend down the tie rod attachment point.

Look to the 70's-80's 911 world for that hardware.


TonyG

odurandina

thanks.... sorry to hi-jack... details, i just wanted a street engine; so, no dry sump or high rpm cam; GM LS7 bl. ($2,725 sale price), stock LS3 heads,
Eagle forged 3.622 crank (ESP-434636226100), Callies Rods (CSC6125DS2A2AH), Wiseco (K0005X130) 1cc 1.300" x 4.130" pistons, stock cam
(gotta be kidding), aftermarket bearings, springs, lifters, pushrods, bolts, studs, w/ complete long block assembly, etc.

$8,625 for bare long block -- w/ out any of the following; freight, oil pan/&pickup (Eric Hill pan was sent prior to build)... no serpentine, exhaust manifold, intake manifold., injectors, fuel rail, coils, harness or TB (which were already sourced).... i got lucky having one of XSChop's last kits for running the stock ps pump. on the builder--their sales volume helps low cost on parts...... labor and machine work. ? not sure how they do it, but we'll see....

.

V2Rocket

I have no doubt that your motor and swap are going to be legendary, and that you will get to your 190+MPH goal. I look forward to the pics and progress of your monster-968. What kind of power are you aiming for?

That said, if someone handed me a bill for $8600 for a bare engine, not counting the install kit or accessories, I would buy a junkyard 6.0 Vortec, rebuild it, give it cleaned up L92 heads, find a nice cam, and still have some change for gas money...

Maybe buy a supercharger, maybe buy another 6.0 as a spare...

odurandina

a good exhaust and stock cam, maybe 390~400 at the wheels)? without a cam i can forget about anything really fast. that's ok. it came down to the decision that i'd rather have a very smooth idle than go 190.... with the 18" resonator and large Magnaflow, it should be very nice for driving long distance, but still sound decent when if i give it the gas. i still have a couple of options from a list of mild cams. but just as an example;

1. extremely mild cam; maybe 15~20 hp over stock?

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1248&sb=2

2. 25~30 hp over ?

http://www.compcams.com/(S(r303vhe3c...csid=1249&sb=0


190~200 mph on a long stretch of empty interstate would need nitrous.

prolly not worth the bother.


sorry to drag off topic Bruce. back to the show.

TonyG

A) You don't have a clue about my education.

B) You don't have to be an engineer to clearly see that your proposed solution wouldn't fix the geometry problem (specifically the bump steer issue).

All it would do would be to provide a means to connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle.

THE SAME BUMP STEER ISSUE WOULD EXIST.

Yes the top of tie rod would be flat (or parallel to the control arm).

However... that's not what matters. What matters is that the arc of the tie rod as it moves through its travel matches the arc of the control arm as it moves through its travel.

And... that won't happen with your solution because you haven't moved the base of the arc. IT WILL HAVE THE SAME ARC AS IT DOES NOW. And thus the same bump steer issue it has now.


In this particular case, the only way to fix it is to either raise the rack, modify the steering knuckle (not smart) to lower the tie rod connection point, or use some sort of spacers to get the tie rod connection point to the steering knuckle lower.

What engineering school did you graduate from again?


TonyG

95ONE

We're looking at something close to 2.5-3" Lower. It will probably almost hit the bottom of the wheel. .... I have created a monster issue that requires some monster thinking. That far below the stock point creates some pretty large amounts of stress in new ways on the spindle arm.

I have something in mind that might work. I can't work on this problem for a while though. I barely go enough time to get on the computer before I head to bead. I'm just completely tapped out of energy moving this ship. 1/2 day to go tomorrow.