95ONE

Patrick, that is always the killer question with everything I'm doing right now. Where to put the Expansion tank, ECU, Relays, Fuse panel, Ign Kills. I'm just trying to do one at a time or my head will explode. I always try to think 3-4 "chess" moves ahead on installing something in a proper location. Pros and cons. That's not always easy for me to do, and why I take at least a week to chew on a tough decision. That question about the swirl pot is just something I will have to handle when / if I get there. ... first thought, in that big empty space right above my tin work for the Diffuser. Bumper area. I'm keeping anything above and outside the wheels as light as humanly possible. M.O.I. - Moment of inertia - will be very different from most 944s that might weigh the same. (except JET. .his set up is farly hard core that way already)


As I yours. Big fan of your build. First class all the way.

SOMEDAY we might meet up at a track.. ANY tracks I visit outside of TX will first be planned with a quick look at who on this list is where so I get to meet as many of you as I can.

Laguna Seca is VERY HIGH on my list. (yeah yeah, different name now but I don't accept it) Hopes and prayers for next year.

95ONE

Here are some small progress pics. I got the Flywheel and starter ring milled out to the proper LS crank bolt pattern. I also got the flange that will weld to the torque tube. I cut some fun stuff out of it first. It will allow the torque tube to be bolted and perfectly centered on the chevy style tilton bellhousing and 4 disc clutch. I think the whole ring gear, flywheel, and clutch weigh about 15lbs total. 95% of that weight is in a small 6.5" circle. That should translate into very decent power to the wheels. Also a very quick rev when combined with 13:1 compression.

odurandina

beautiful work and really great pics. i've been back and forth today trying to make a good decision on either going lightweight or just stay stock. i'm looking for a light setup the will still allow me to ease the clutch out and not touch the gas.... wondering if that goes away a little with the Fidanza. but with the c.i., maybe it'll be fine.

95ONE

I wouldn't say beautiful, but thank you. That milling took me over an hour to do. The top cuts took so long that i decided to go quicker and easier with the one bottom cut across. It was going to look like the ones's on top, but it was getting late and it only shaved a half pound.

If that's (driving style from start) important to you, and you will have a bunch of cubic inches with torque to push it, just stay the with the stock stuff.

It also let me raise the A-Arm 1.25" higher to correct roll center. I haven't decided on using the stock bolts or others, so those are just thrown in there. (miss-matched for now) the work to put those there and feel good about strength and placement was no small feat. 2 weeks worth of work actually.
But yes, it also cleared up considerable room for long tube headers to pass through there. So did the Sherman Tank Style motor mounts. (thick solid steel) A lot more will be done to make room for the Collector.

333pg333

That's a neat idea on the roll center Bruce. The more you can do to keep this beast with the largest and longest planted contact area, the better. I'll have to go back and read more about your planned suspension. If I were you and going to the extent you are on this car, I'd definitely consider swapping out to some more recently designed suspension. By that I mean doing away with the trailing arms at least, maybe even the MacPherson struts.

95ONE

Patrick, as crazy as it sounds, I'm not going as extreme on the suspension. I will certainly be doing this to the full extent later this year or next. But I decided to do major upgrades to the suspension for now, but not a major re-working. Its only a priority of time. I want to get it out to a track someday this year!

Probably only a kolken style rear. Front suspension will remain as it sits with a change to some nice remote reservoir style adjustable struts up front.

odurandina

Bruce,

engine build quiestion. GM vs ARP head bolts. would it make a difference ?

as i'm not planning to run the engine hard.

TonyG

I like the relocation of the rear A arm point, but I would be concerned that you can get the caster adjustment that you need.

You could take it out with spacers I guess, but you can't really add more in (like you can with slotted rear spherical caster blocks).

TonyG

TonyG

I don't know why the eccentric wouldn't work anymore. He only rotated the mount/bushing. Plus, with slotted bushings there, he could adjust for ryanti -dive, no?[/QUOTE]

They (the eccentrics) will still work....to the extent of the eccentrics range of adjustment.... Which isn't all that much.

About half of the total range of adjustment comes from the ability to slide the rear trailing arm mount left to right. With that now gone, the range of.

adjustment is cut way down.

TonyG

odurandina

thanks.

TonyG

1) It's not so much the roll center correction. It's more of a correction of a lowered car front suspension geometry... .specifically the A arm angle on a lowered car.

2) "he" might have calculated for the proper caster... but I doubt it. That would be a very difficult thing to do since it would require the car to be fully weighted on its wheels. Only thing could the measurements be taken... and from where I don't really know. You could approximate the location, then make up for it with one way or the other with the adjustment window (what ever that is) provided by the A arm eccentrics, presuming that the range was sufficient.

3)
a) There are no "capture nuts". The sheet metal is threaded. And it doesn't break loose. However... there are my stupid people that don't use torque wrenches and manage to strip the the threaded bosses.

b) They are not "my slotted mounts". "They" are the spherical bearing rear trailing arm mounts sold by The Racer's Edge.

c) His setup doesn't fix anything other than to create more room for a header collector to pass by.

d) The bolts holding the caster blocks have never once "slipped" in probably 20 years of racing these cars. Nor have the bolts ever been broken.


Just trying to clarify a few points.

TonyG

xschop

Yeah, those nuts on the inside of the body at the rear caster mounts are factory spot welded. It was the first thing I had to repair when I got the donor car for my swap....mucho fun. I wonder how far his crank centerline will ride off the ground...that'll be a plus.

odurandina

http://shop.design1racing.com/Lower-...-Brace-CB1.htm


.

TonyG

The point here is that trying to determine the exact location of where to relocate it would be very difficult to get exactly right. Being off say 1/64" will have a considerable effect the range of adjustment with the factory eccentric.

Yeah. Like I said before. Most people don't know how to use a torque wrench.

And the plate with the two holes 68mm apart isn't anything new.


That's pretty funny actually...

I know exactly why he did it and exactly what it will fix. It's pretty obvious. Even to an idiot like myself :-) Oh... and btw... he's not the first person to ever modify that mount for clearance, roll center, and structural strength purposes.

My point was, and still is, that to do it like he did it you then become dependent on the factory eccentric for caster, and if and when that range of adjustment is not sufficient, then you're stuck and can only go one way using some sort of spacer. This situation being amplified by the fact that the exact location is difficult to get right.

TonyG

TonyG

I didn't think they were nuts. I have Time Certed them before on various street cars with good results (on street cars...not track cars).

How did you get in there to repair it?

BTW... my current car uses the 1/2" spacers. But I welded on 1/2" steel plate with 68mm hole centers, bolted it to the existing holes, and welded them on.

Unfortunately I don't have access to the photos here right now (on vacation)

TonyG