AFRs are lean at idle... surging idle and doesn't want to rev.. VIDEO ON PAGE 6!!
#16
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It happens... Static can take out a chip.
I would first swap back your known-good chip, and see if you get tach-bounce / start.
If it is your Speed/Ref sensors, best to just get new ones - there are BMW (?) replacement sensors that nearly the exact same part, but less $ (what I run).
-Rogue
I would first swap back your known-good chip, and see if you get tach-bounce / start.
If it is your Speed/Ref sensors, best to just get new ones - there are BMW (?) replacement sensors that nearly the exact same part, but less $ (what I run).
-Rogue
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i should have swapped it when i pulled the dme apart 30min ago.. damn lol.
well screw it, ran outta time for bringing it out tonight, and i dumped my bike yesterday and need a new case cover on that.. so it looks like ill be driving the beater to the car meet tonight lol
well screw it, ran outta time for bringing it out tonight, and i dumped my bike yesterday and need a new case cover on that.. so it looks like ill be driving the beater to the car meet tonight lol
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static can junk a chip and it can junk a dme. lets hope its not either. i doubt the sensors went bad over that time but there could be a break in a wire b/w the connector and the dme. i would ohm those wires or swap in a good chip, not even a special chip thats tuned for the setup, just a good one to see if you get spark then call russell.
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Just like I have always said these cars will find a way to have a problem in an un-associated area when working on them.
Myself I would check the s/r sensors and the connectors/wires since you pulled the intake.
You may also want to check
the Alarm module
make sure the connectors are all connected in the DME area
if that doesn't do it swap the old chip back and get back to square one with the only change being the turbo.
Myself I would check the s/r sensors and the connectors/wires since you pulled the intake.
You may also want to check
the Alarm module
make sure the connectors are all connected in the DME area
if that doesn't do it swap the old chip back and get back to square one with the only change being the turbo.
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I HAVE SPARK AND THE CAR STARTS AND IDLES!!!
bad dme was the culprit.
but nowwww.......
it seems like its not getting enough fuel, idles a bit high, back fires when i try and give it gas and the wideband reads 21 which is the max lean it shows at idle.. cant rev the car at all really..
bad dme was the culprit.
but nowwww.......
it seems like its not getting enough fuel, idles a bit high, back fires when i try and give it gas and the wideband reads 21 which is the max lean it shows at idle.. cant rev the car at all really..
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-15.5 about, but i dont know where there could be a leak i triple checked it all.
not enough voltage? the car wont start without a jump, and the batt gauge reads nothing when i take the jumper cables off, but it still will run.. bad batt? bad alternator? i did drain and recharge this batt quite a few times cranking it when i had no spark..
not enough voltage? the car wont start without a jump, and the batt gauge reads nothing when i take the jumper cables off, but it still will run.. bad batt? bad alternator? i did drain and recharge this batt quite a few times cranking it when i had no spark..