AFRs are lean at idle... surging idle and doesn't want to rev.. VIDEO ON PAGE 6!!
#46
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Who said DME first in this thread? meeeeee lol that sux man. did russell know what maf your using when he burned the chips? sounds like you need a piggyback. bet your dme and maf sensor are not correlated well. unplug the maf while its running and see what happens. as for your alternator thats an easy diag. ohm big wire at alternator to pos. battery post. should have close to no resistance. small wire is the 12v activation wire the computer turns the alternator on with. when running if the small wire has power and no ohms in the big wire and you have a belt on haha your alt. is bad.
#47
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im geussing you hooked up your maf right. good ground and 12v source. also that your maf is fairly new. its probably not dirty. look into rogues thread tunerpro about afm/maf correlation and you will see what can happen to AFR's if its off.
#48
Nordschleife Master
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OK, in comes my 2C as well... in order of things to check...
1) Grounds (clean every last one of them!)
2) Battery cables for broken wires (yes it can happen)
3) MAF Voltage out
4) TPS (feeds both the DME and the piggy back)
5) Piggy back settings (no mid or WOT gain)
6) Clogged cat convertor
7) Vacuum leak
Sounds like you have no rise in the MAF V out (happened to me, but mine was a bad harness / piggy back)... if good at idle but nowhere else, you have a malignant MAF signal issue... FIX YOUR MAF, MAF Wiring, or Piggy back (could be a bad piggy back!)
Vacuum leak COULD cause low boost reading, but total lack of fuel being sent above idle will cause turbo to stall....
1) Grounds (clean every last one of them!)
2) Battery cables for broken wires (yes it can happen)
3) MAF Voltage out
4) TPS (feeds both the DME and the piggy back)
5) Piggy back settings (no mid or WOT gain)
6) Clogged cat convertor
7) Vacuum leak
Sounds like you have no rise in the MAF V out (happened to me, but mine was a bad harness / piggy back)... if good at idle but nowhere else, you have a malignant MAF signal issue... FIX YOUR MAF, MAF Wiring, or Piggy back (could be a bad piggy back!)
Vacuum leak COULD cause low boost reading, but total lack of fuel being sent above idle will cause turbo to stall....
#56
Nordschleife Master
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Their current Quad M has the function built in, but it still needs to be adjusted.. the OLD MAFs they sold REQUIRED a piggyback... from their site:
"We used to sell the MAF meters that other companies still sell. Even though they are still available, we wanted something superior for metering the air and fine tuning for our customers and to use in our packages and kits.
The QUAD-M Meter solutions have a built in fuel controller enabling you to adjust the output voltages up or down like a piggy back fuel controller, or you can run either our Mafterburner or Power Perfect external piggy back fuel controllers as well for in-car adjustment and tuning."
Is your MAF the QuadM, or a single wire older style?
if older style pay special attention to the "this is where the piggy back wiring connects" section of their tech garage!
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/MAFATMAF.html
"We used to sell the MAF meters that other companies still sell. Even though they are still available, we wanted something superior for metering the air and fine tuning for our customers and to use in our packages and kits.
The QUAD-M Meter solutions have a built in fuel controller enabling you to adjust the output voltages up or down like a piggy back fuel controller, or you can run either our Mafterburner or Power Perfect external piggy back fuel controllers as well for in-car adjustment and tuning."
Is your MAF the QuadM, or a single wire older style?
if older style pay special attention to the "this is where the piggy back wiring connects" section of their tech garage!
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/MAFATMAF.html
#58
Nordschleife Master
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you NEED a piggy back, either MAFTERBURNER, POWER PERFECT, or some other MAF piggy back to get the MAF signal converted and controlled to be presented to the DME as an aiflow meter.... google MAF signal conditioner...
or here.. http://tinyurl.com/ydccbpp scroll down to the "split second" link near the bottom!
Sucks, but it is what it is.... welcome to modifying your 951 101...
or goto http://www.splitsec.nl/ and look at their ARC2 (very crude, but it works...) the PP or MafterBurner are MUCH better, but more $$...
let me know when it is running, and I'll PM you my paypal address for that $50 you offered earlier!
or here.. http://tinyurl.com/ydccbpp scroll down to the "split second" link near the bottom!
Sucks, but it is what it is.... welcome to modifying your 951 101...
or goto http://www.splitsec.nl/ and look at their ARC2 (very crude, but it works...) the PP or MafterBurner are MUCH better, but more $$...
let me know when it is running, and I'll PM you my paypal address for that $50 you offered earlier!
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#60
Nordschleife Master
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OR you have bad grounds, bad battery cables, or a mix of the 3... BTW BAD 12V signal, or noise in the line WILL wreak havoc on your MAF.... but not enough to cause your current problems...