blown 944

You should make a separate build thread to document it all, then format your initial post in this thread to link to it.

Love the build!!!

968turbos2

Thanks, that is why I never posted pics. I documented everything. I mean everything mistakes....changes...I put the engine together 3 times over 7 years. in the last 4 months I changed the ECU from Tec3r to Infinity 10 because of the oil temp input for variocam switch points I just could not make work right with tec3r. I will do on the post edit! Thanks.

I think I joined this forum right after I bought this car.

theedge

That looks like a great project, needs a build thread. Gives me some hope to do some welding.... At least mine isnt the only way too many years project.

How do you like the Infinity?

968turbos2

No problem on the welding at all just let me know, I love the infinity, the only problems I had were that I was using windows 7 home edition at first and it has a problem with usb devices, switched to professional and up and no issue since.

968turbos2

The power distribution of the infinity is the same for stock. I have all pin assignments and even crimper tools and pins to do another harness. After what I had to go through I think it is really possible to do the conversion in a plug and play way to be able to run NA or boosted. (future project)

Chris White

Looks really nice....I might be just a tad biased because I have the same color 968 16v turbo (except its a cab).
Welds are looking pretty good, there is one issue that you should know about - the wastegate pipe should not come off the cross over pipe at an angle greater then 90 degrees. You can get boost control issues because the rate of flow across the wastegate pipe opening is so fast that the wastegate becomes ineffective.
I found that in a previous project - after 3 days on the dyno changing out 3 different wastegates, wastegate springs, controllers and just about everything else.

BTW - too bad I didn't hear about the Tec issue before, I have ways of making that work.

Chris White

I just saw one other thing - the cross over pipe is solid - you should consider either a slip joint or one of the really good inconel bellows. there is a lot of expansion as the system heats up and if you don't have a way to relive it you will get cracks or leaks. http://www.reidwashbon.com/racing_pa...s/bellows.aspx

Not cheap!!

968turbos2

It is at 75 degrees w/the flow, I see what you mean though (did not know that but originally I purchased all the bolt on parts and well...I am sure you know what I was to find out )

Funny thing is I cut out the bellows, initially I used the (purchased) one and it came up short. Added an Inconel bellows (not because I knew but the pic on burns made it look like that is what might do the trick)
First version (4-5 years ago).... money spent parts arrive bolt on...this was V1 of the engine (red painted valve cover...I must have been drunk that day...



Added a bellows and thought I was okay....Everything looked good except it had not occurred to me that maybe fitting the exhaust like I did on the engine on a stand might not work once in the car in the car...(granted I can turn some wrenches but what really helped were these teachable moments....




About 8 months from then I would have the engine in the car (I work a 9-9 6/7 or 7/7) and find out it touches the frame on the drivers side....my need to get yet a third welder or buy a Diversion 165, some tanks and some wire and come out of it with a skill was at hand...I chose the latter, figured what did I have more to lose at this point and in the end was the cheaper method. I ended up cutting up all of the purchased exhaust and made a full three in and fit an 18" resonator before the muffler and after the cat.

You think I should add the bellow to the cross member Chris? It seems like it would make sense as that is what I was worried about but did not really know how much expansion to expect.

Welding confidence grew so figured I would fix some of the things about the intake that bothered me over the years. I used the factory throttle turned upside down and kept the factory throttle cable.

968turbos2

That paint job I did on the valve cover made me look for a bead blaster. Found the Barrel Blaster (300 bucks) (Google it) I bead blasted everything that was aluminum except the rear control arms only because they were on the car with suspension by the time I found this. Contemplated taking it all off again just to do. I friends say the car looks like a Hot Wheels car. My little brother had a saying....when you are broke you can always wipe some sh_t down and shine some sh_t up. The car got very clean of the years.

Chris White

I bead blast a lot of stuff too - one thing that happens is that the raw aluminum finish attracts and traps dirt much better than the factory finish. The bead blasted aluminum has a fine texture to it the really attracts dirt!
If you wire brush the aluminum after blasting it that will smooth the 'toothy' finish and it will remain cleaner longer.

As for the bellows / slip joint - the path of the headers/cross over pipe from the head to the turbo will expand by about 1/4" from ambient to hot temps. This will cause a lot of stress, cracking is common, especially with the 304 stainless pipes. since you are getting pretty good with the welder I would recommend putting the bellows back in - especially if you still have them in your shop!

968turbos2

Thanks Chris, makes a lot of sense and a 1/4" is a big deal. This is the kind of stuff that makes the project longer but is well worth it. (Why it has taken so long).

Thom

Am I the only one who can't see the pics? They won't load.

reno808

i can't see the pictures as well.

964-C2

+1

968turbos2

What about now for the pics? I had some stringent firewall rules I think caused a problem.