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… re-check the tightness of the pinch bolts since the re-install, and he said it was, but would require removing the transmission again...
No. He’s never seen a 928.
There is an inspection hole in the torque tube at the junction to the torque converter. That’s how the pinch bolt is tightened regardless of if the assembly is in the 928 or on the floor. If in the car, heat shields must be loosened and slipped aside to get to the inspection hole.
Without wanting to sound hyperbolic, these conversations with the folks at Porsche Hanover makes them sound either A) grossly incompetent, or B), that they _really_ don't want to work on 928s.
There is an inspection hole in the torque tube at the junction to the torque converter. That’s how the pinch bolt is tightened regardless of if the assembly is in the 928 or on the floor. If in the car, heat shields must be loosened and slipped aside to get to the inspection hole.
He has done all the work himself (apart from gearbox rebuild) on that 928 GTS over the last 3yrs. Respectfully, I think he is thinking I am naive (granted I am not a Porsche mechanic, but I think you know what I mean).
Without wanting to sound hyperbolic, these conversations with the folks at Porsche Hanover makes them sound either A) grossly incompetent, or B), that they _really_ don't want to work on 928s.
You forgot C), He sees a money grab moment praying on assumed naivety/gullibility or believing that the car cannot go for 'professional Porsche' work anywhere else nearby.
Either way, it is a turn off for this car. I basically have to either argue with the mechanic that he is wrong, spend the money on ridiculous labour hours, or buy the car without doing anything and take a chance on it.
At least the mechanic did inform me that the A/C compressor was leaking badly and would need replacing, which is something the owner conveniently avoided telling me when I tested how cold the A/C was.
… buy the car without doing anything and take a chance on it.
There is a … what I would call “gross check” of the thrust bearing that won’t give you a measurement but will give you a notion of if the block has been damaged by crank movement:
Start the 928 from shop-cold and listen very carefully - best have your phone recording - to the sound of the starter.
Then run/drive the 928 for an hour: long enough to get the block up to operating temperature and thoroughly heat soaked.
Then stop the engine and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
Then attempt to start the engine again with ear and phone recording.
If, on the warm start, the starter has noticeably more difficulty starting the engine then that is a reasonable indication that the crank is eating the block.
If, on the warm start, the starter can start the engine with no discernible difference in effort then that is a reasonable indication that the crank is NOT eating the block.
This is the only way *I* know how to gauge the overall health of the engine “remotely” in the absence of a CEP check.
Someone with a “928-calibrated arm” could do the same simply by turning the crank by hand (long ratchet actually) when cold and then hot.
This Porsche Mechanic you describe doesn’t instill me with confidence. I would list every single thing they touched as “suspect” and in need of detailed inspection or disassembly (*).
(*) You never know how good someone’s work is until you take it apart.
He has done all the work himself (apart from gearbox rebuild) on that 928 GTS over the last 3yrs. Respectfully,…
This doesn’t really mean much to me. 19 out of 20 928s that roll into my shop that I’ve never seen before have at least one problem, not on the client’s task list, caused by previous service that must be repaired before I will let it leave my shop. Last one was - literally - a piece of the clutch falling out of the inspection hole in the clutch cover after a $4k clutch service from another shop.
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Are you referring to the picture of the dial gauge in the gallery (Pic 180)? Not sure where he's measuring at or what position the gauge was zeroed at, but it looks like it's roughly 0.006" from wherever it started.
Are you referring to the picture of the dial gauge in the gallery (Pic 180)? Not sure where he's measuring at or what position the gauge was zeroed at, but it looks like it's roughly 0.006" from wherever it started.
I was reading as: dial at rest at 0.094” and max indicator at 0.111” so 0.017” difference.
That makes sense- 0.017" would be 0.43 mm, just over the 0.4 mm wear limit. But do we trust end play measurements done on the AC pulley? Not sure that I do.
But if it's only .006" then it's very much in spec. Be nice if the measurement was done on the flywheel.
Be nice if the measurement was done on the flywheel.
Be nice if there was any context at all.
But, the next time I do a CEP measurement, I’m going to do it from the front without disconnecting anything first. Then I will gather measurements with the proper procedure.
11-17-2022, 05:30 PM
