So what did you do to your 928 Today......
#4488
I haven't started or driven my 928 and 911 since the first snow (and piles of road salt) in early December. I felt the need to check on them today. Opened the garage, got in the 928 first, inserted key, turned, and it fired right up. Not a battery maintainer in sight. Next, I started the 911, it also fired right up. I let both run for about 20 minutes. I know it's generally not recommended to just warm up cars like that, but I couldn't resist.
I can't wait for the roads to be salt-free....
Hugo
I can't wait for the roads to be salt-free....
Hugo
#4489
Rennlist Member
- Removed the alternator for testing at the shop
- Removed the cracked expansion tank
- drained coolant
- Realized the little things under the hood that the PO had done to keep the car in great shape. Zip ties not only kept everything tidy, but unknown to me I was protected from a premature coolant leak due to a cut hose from the alternator fan. It was nicely tied out of the way so it would not get cut. So well organized!
- Removed the cracked expansion tank
- drained coolant
- Realized the little things under the hood that the PO had done to keep the car in great shape. Zip ties not only kept everything tidy, but unknown to me I was protected from a premature coolant leak due to a cut hose from the alternator fan. It was nicely tied out of the way so it would not get cut. So well organized!
Last edited by jwbeck17; 01-19-2014 at 01:54 AM.
#4490
She sat outside for a couple of days through her first snow fall. Putting her up tomorrow for a long overdue transmission service.
Need to measure the front trans cooler line for Greg to make one for me. Should be around 40 degrees tomorrow, not too cold for me to work on her.
Need to measure the front trans cooler line for Greg to make one for me. Should be around 40 degrees tomorrow, not too cold for me to work on her.
#4493
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Picked it up from the Porschologist.
Now I hope I find time to get it new shoes soon - they are more than 6 years old by now...
The rears have hardened to the point that when you stomp on it in 1st gear, it makes a lot of noise but doesn't go anywhere. This was tested and confirmed multiple times by a famous Swedish race car driver...
Now I hope I find time to get it new shoes soon - they are more than 6 years old by now...
The rears have hardened to the point that when you stomp on it in 1st gear, it makes a lot of noise but doesn't go anywhere. This was tested and confirmed multiple times by a famous Swedish race car driver...
#4494
Opened yet another package... new key ring! Now where are those keys? Even better, where's my car???
(Sigh) PO still has it with shop. Hoping to have it in my possession soon!
Back to researching a Nak 35z and a bazooka...(subwoofer, not the weapon!)
(Sigh) PO still has it with shop. Hoping to have it in my possession soon!
Back to researching a Nak 35z and a bazooka...(subwoofer, not the weapon!)
#4498
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Remember this post from back on November 22 of last year?:
Well, here it is a little more than two months later. Finally had time to tackle this today.
Took it from this (note three yellow LEDs and one incandescent bulb):
to this (yellow LEDs have been replaced with brighter white ones, and incandescent bulb has been replaced with red LED with clear lens; the red LED also needed a current-limiting resistor, which is hidden under the PCB):
Resulting in this:
If you value your time at all and don't obsess about the little things, you probably don't want to do this upgrade. It takes a ridiculous amount of time, and there are numerous ways to screw up if you're not careful.
That said, I'm happy with the results. The "1", "2", and "3" are considerably brighter (and whiter, of course) than they were before (and I had the instrumentation lighting dimmer turned down about halfway in this photo). The red bar is a little brighter (and more saturated red), too.
I can now honestly say that there's not a single incandescent bulb (that I know of) in my car, inside or out, other than the four H3 halogen driving/fog lights.
Schocki reminded me that in Converting Porsche 928 Interior Lighting to LEDs (as of rev. 0.7, the latest revision as I write this), the very last page contains: "[TBA: seat position memory switch backlighting]". He was curious if I had ever addressed that.
The answer is no.
But I did dig into it this evening (after Schocki told me that it's easy to pop out and unplug the switch assembly).
[...] (more stuff, photos, etc.)
I am really hoping to complete this, though, as I believe that little incandescent lamp is the only one left in my car (interior and exterior) aside from the four H3 halogens in the fog/driving lights.
The answer is no.
But I did dig into it this evening (after Schocki told me that it's easy to pop out and unplug the switch assembly).
[...] (more stuff, photos, etc.)
I am really hoping to complete this, though, as I believe that little incandescent lamp is the only one left in my car (interior and exterior) aside from the four H3 halogens in the fog/driving lights.
Took it from this (note three yellow LEDs and one incandescent bulb):
to this (yellow LEDs have been replaced with brighter white ones, and incandescent bulb has been replaced with red LED with clear lens; the red LED also needed a current-limiting resistor, which is hidden under the PCB):
Resulting in this:
If you value your time at all and don't obsess about the little things, you probably don't want to do this upgrade. It takes a ridiculous amount of time, and there are numerous ways to screw up if you're not careful.
That said, I'm happy with the results. The "1", "2", and "3" are considerably brighter (and whiter, of course) than they were before (and I had the instrumentation lighting dimmer turned down about halfway in this photo). The red bar is a little brighter (and more saturated red), too.
I can now honestly say that there's not a single incandescent bulb (that I know of) in my car, inside or out, other than the four H3 halogen driving/fog lights.
#4499
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Rechecked tb tension, recharged the oil in the tensioner, using Stan's recommendation for STP instead of motor oil. Other than taking some extra effort to push the STP through the fill port, all went well.
I am thinking more about a PKT and a race belt, and ignore it for another 50k.
Took the opportunity to do an extra couple hours of cleaning while the car was up with the trays off.
I am thinking more about a PKT and a race belt, and ignore it for another 50k.
Took the opportunity to do an extra couple hours of cleaning while the car was up with the trays off.
#4500
Rennlist Member
Hood and hatch shocks were still original from 1994 and could do with renewing, with new ones as I bought from Roger. I used a vacuum cleaner (Germany sturdy brand, that hatch is heavy!) extendable and height adjustable tube, perfect as the helping hand for this job. As per others posts on this subject with Mrmerlin recommendation:
- put a little bit of grease in the new sockets,
- check that you have the right hood- (easy to compress with one hand) or hatch-shocks (hard to compress even with two hands),
- un-clip the original as per my 3rd photo and removed it and click the new ones in place. Takes all in all only minutes to do.
Back to winter sleep for the car...
- put a little bit of grease in the new sockets,
- check that you have the right hood- (easy to compress with one hand) or hatch-shocks (hard to compress even with two hands),
- un-clip the original as per my 3rd photo and removed it and click the new ones in place. Takes all in all only minutes to do.
Back to winter sleep for the car...