Empty shell to finished car
#661
Greg,
The OBR system looks very capable and the fact that you can program it yourself is a huge selling point in my book. How much does it run for a complete system? I see you have your ABS integrated, which ABS system are you using? Do you have any info on the ABS system? I currently have the stock 928 ABS but I really want a modern system with ESC and the only one that comes to mind as being completely adaptable to the 928 is the Bosch motorsports system which is EXPENSIVE!
Cheers!
Carl
The OBR system looks very capable and the fact that you can program it yourself is a huge selling point in my book. How much does it run for a complete system? I see you have your ABS integrated, which ABS system are you using? Do you have any info on the ABS system? I currently have the stock 928 ABS but I really want a modern system with ESC and the only one that comes to mind as being completely adaptable to the 928 is the Bosch motorsports system which is EXPENSIVE!
Cheers!
Carl
With the OBR, the ECU would be around $5K and the power control module (can log via the ECU) about $3K. My ABS is the Bosch Motorsports System.
I need to finish this more basic project before I get onto the big project car but my crazy thoughts are this for the next project. (That is the 4V 7 speed car with GTS body.) I intend to use the series 991 GT3 brakes in the iron but I will look at if I can get a wiring diagram using its ABS system. This would be transferred over in totality and this would also give you the benefit of torque vectoring. There is also a function in the road car ABS systems that look at the yaw and adjust the pressures so that the wheels don't lock due to better pressure distribution. This function is an option in my Motorsports unit but was around $10K. I just forget the letters they use to describe it.
One of the reasons for using the OBR and Bosch units is that they provide the sensors and capability to run the custom PSD differential. My engineer is an ex world rally engineer and his job was to run their differentials of which they had three. He has a number of custom programs to do this. We will most likely use the program used in F1 where the diff can be customised on entry to the corner (braking i.e loose for turn in) mid (pre loaded for accelation) exit (maximum locking for appropriate balance of the car while under hard accelation) This requires three dials and the settings are varied due to tyre wear and the balance in the car wanted.
Greg
#662
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think I am going to disappoint you here Carl, I don't know the US prices and history shows that US pricing is the cheapest in the world. So I will reduce the Australian pricing to give you an idea.
With the OBR, the ECU would be around $5K and the power control module (can log via the ECU) about $3K. My ABS is the Bosch Motorsports System.
I need to finish this more basic project before I get onto the big project car but my crazy thoughts are this for the next project. (That is the 4V 7 speed car with GTS body.) I intend to use the series 991 GT3 brakes in the iron but I will look at if I can get a wiring diagram using its ABS system. This would be transferred over in totality and this would also give you the benefit of torque vectoring. There is also a function in the road car ABS systems that look at the yaw and adjust the pressures so that the wheels don't lock due to better pressure distribution. This function is an option in my Motorsports unit but was around $10K. I just forget the letters they use to describe it.
One of the reasons for using the OBR and Bosch units is that they provide the sensors and capability to run the custom PSD differential. My engineer is an ex world rally engineer and his job was to run their differentials of which they had three. He has a number of custom programs to do this. We will most likely use the program used in F1 where the diff can be customised on entry to the corner (braking i.e loose for turn in) mid (pre loaded for accelation) exit (maximum locking for appropriate balance of the car while under hard accelation) This requires three dials and the settings are varied due to tyre wear and the balance in the car wanted.
Greg
With the OBR, the ECU would be around $5K and the power control module (can log via the ECU) about $3K. My ABS is the Bosch Motorsports System.
I need to finish this more basic project before I get onto the big project car but my crazy thoughts are this for the next project. (That is the 4V 7 speed car with GTS body.) I intend to use the series 991 GT3 brakes in the iron but I will look at if I can get a wiring diagram using its ABS system. This would be transferred over in totality and this would also give you the benefit of torque vectoring. There is also a function in the road car ABS systems that look at the yaw and adjust the pressures so that the wheels don't lock due to better pressure distribution. This function is an option in my Motorsports unit but was around $10K. I just forget the letters they use to describe it.
One of the reasons for using the OBR and Bosch units is that they provide the sensors and capability to run the custom PSD differential. My engineer is an ex world rally engineer and his job was to run their differentials of which they had three. He has a number of custom programs to do this. We will most likely use the program used in F1 where the diff can be customised on entry to the corner (braking i.e loose for turn in) mid (pre loaded for accelation) exit (maximum locking for appropriate balance of the car while under hard accelation) This requires three dials and the settings are varied due to tyre wear and the balance in the car wanted.
Greg
I'm all set with the electrical system from Infinitybox, but it would have been nice to have a cost-competitive system available in addition to the Infinitybox for anyone else who goes down the same road I am. Selection is always good. It sounds like the OBR electrical system is at least $1,500 more. The Infinitybox system can interface with the CANBUS protocol, and the GM computer has its own CANBUS connection as well.
The big issue for me is locating a suitable ABS replacement, as it will eventually be replaced in my car with a modern system. There is a rumor that the code has been cracked on the BMW E36 ABS and a kit is being made available shortly, but my research hasn't been conclusive yet. It would be a very cost effective option
EDIT: As I wrote this, the company emailed me to say they have stopped doing this. I suspect BMW might have been upset with them
Cheers!
Carl
Last edited by FLYVMO; 03-29-2016 at 10:37 AM.
#663
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Carpet install progress
The carpet kit install is coming along well, but one can only inhale so much of the adhesive before it is time for a break. The kit is from Rob Budd and the color is "Slate Grey". Luckily, a big package arrived from Germany with new door glass, trim pieces and a new intake/cooling duct for the front. Unfortunately it was impossible to find a used duct that was not broken, so it had to come from Germany. Same with the new door glass, after hours and hours polishing the old glass, I just could not get the scratches out, and not even a glass shop could save the old glass. So I had to bite the bullet and get some new glass.
The subwoofers for the rear quarter panels arrived, made by JL Audio, 6.5" which will be powered by the rear mounted amplifier (2*100W RMS). As I am not into rattling my tooth fillings out or waking up the neighbors, I think these will do great. The remaining component speakers are on back order (Audiofrog) and will be powered by the amplifier under the passenger side cover (4*75W RMS).
Finally the majority of the electrical testing is complete, and after having measured amperages etc, I have started the final version of the front cabin harness, which is slightly downsized in gauge size. It also allows me to clean up some of the original layout and reduce wiring runs further. I decided to do a one piece harness that eliminates the connectors in the door, reducing the chance of poor connection issues.
Cheers!
Carl
The subwoofers for the rear quarter panels arrived, made by JL Audio, 6.5" which will be powered by the rear mounted amplifier (2*100W RMS). As I am not into rattling my tooth fillings out or waking up the neighbors, I think these will do great. The remaining component speakers are on back order (Audiofrog) and will be powered by the amplifier under the passenger side cover (4*75W RMS).
Finally the majority of the electrical testing is complete, and after having measured amperages etc, I have started the final version of the front cabin harness, which is slightly downsized in gauge size. It also allows me to clean up some of the original layout and reduce wiring runs further. I decided to do a one piece harness that eliminates the connectors in the door, reducing the chance of poor connection issues.
Cheers!
Carl
#664
There is absolutley a difference between low mile or new glass and glass that has been on a car for decades and 100s of thousands of miles.
#665
With the costs here described, some of this is not looking as bad anymore: http://www.motorsportsinnovations.co...-smartwire.htm
#666
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
With the costs here described, some of this is not looking as bad anymore: http://www.motorsportsinnovations.co...-smartwire.htm
Cheers!
Carl
#667
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Harness comparison
So with the final dash harness 90% complete, I took some pictures to show the general layout and a size comparison between the factory dash harness and the "new and improved" harness. In the overview picture, the orientation is driver (left side) on the left side of the picture. The only items left to integrate is the instrument pod wiring and the HVAC/stereo control wires.
The question of how much the wiring is reduced with the multiplexing system versus stock, has been asked a few times. I think this is probably the most concrete way of visualizing the difference.The stock harness measures about 110mm in circumference versus 70mm for the new harness, measured at the same location. That is with two 8AWG power/ground wires and 16AWG speaker wiring running through it in the new harness. And added convenience items such as door pocket and handle illumination, center armrest illumination and general mood lighting wiring. That is almost a 40% reduction in size.
Cheers!
Carl
The question of how much the wiring is reduced with the multiplexing system versus stock, has been asked a few times. I think this is probably the most concrete way of visualizing the difference.The stock harness measures about 110mm in circumference versus 70mm for the new harness, measured at the same location. That is with two 8AWG power/ground wires and 16AWG speaker wiring running through it in the new harness. And added convenience items such as door pocket and handle illumination, center armrest illumination and general mood lighting wiring. That is almost a 40% reduction in size.
Cheers!
Carl
#668
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Carl, finish throwing this thing back together (kidding).
I want to see it in person at Sharks in the Mountains (serious) ! You have a few weeks left
I want to see it in person at Sharks in the Mountains (serious) ! You have a few weeks left
#669
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Thread Starter
#671
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Thread Starter
#673
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
Posts: 1,727
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Hey Orantes.... I'm taking odds that his profession has something to do with his signature
"My "other vehicle" - >230,000 lbs thrust, 913,000 lbs curb weight, Top Speed 0.92 Mach"
"My "other vehicle" - >230,000 lbs thrust, 913,000 lbs curb weight, Top Speed 0.92 Mach"
#675
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yes I fly large metal cylinders through the sky. I should change my signature as it refers to the B747, and I am now on the B777. But I miss the big bird, makes the B777 feel like a bent Walmart shopping cart in comparison One can definitely tell which one was made before computerized design and weight optimization became common place.
Cheers!
Carl