Empty shell to finished car
#676
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Door lock actuator wiring
So....finally an update after a brutal 5 trips around the globe. I finalized the CEB replacement panel, and now that the wiring has been tested, I installed a permanent mini fuse panel that powers among other things a relay for the ABS, some accessory devices and adds plenty of available fuses for future use. I also put the "correct" hot battery bus connector on top that can handle 350A. Reason is the InfinityBox system in that location can, if fully utilized, consume 250A and the first bus connector I used was only rated for 125A. Not that I will be using that much amperage but it is better to size it correctly.
The Bussman panel is very easy to wire and takes 5 micro relays, or 3 mini relays. I went with the micro relays as they can handle a decent 35A and have a resistor internally for protection. These are 4-pin relays and I enclosed some pictures of the setup.
The door locks are powered by electrical actuators similar to the ones used in the later ('89-up) 928, which is a pull-push actuator instead of a rotary motor used in the earlier cars. The mounting bracket from my '90GT is reused and the actuator fits perfectly on it. These are 5-wire actuators, just like the factory, which means they have internal sensing switches that keeps things in sync should you lock the doors with the door mounted "manual" lock wheels instead of the lock switch in the center console. Those internal switches also connect to the MasterCell lock/unlock inputs.
The red and blue wires move the solenoid in and out (lock/unlock). Black is ground and the purple and brown wires are the internal sense switches.
On MY setup, the wiring is as follows:
Red wire: UNLOCK --> connects to InMotion UNLOCK
Blue wire: LOCK --> connects to InMotion LOCK
The purple and brown wires connect both actuators together, AND also connects to the lock/unlock inputs on the MasterCell. A picture from InfinityBox's website shows the general wiring.
That's it for a day or two until I get the door glass in and more pictures to follow.
Cheers!
Carl
The Bussman panel is very easy to wire and takes 5 micro relays, or 3 mini relays. I went with the micro relays as they can handle a decent 35A and have a resistor internally for protection. These are 4-pin relays and I enclosed some pictures of the setup.
The door locks are powered by electrical actuators similar to the ones used in the later ('89-up) 928, which is a pull-push actuator instead of a rotary motor used in the earlier cars. The mounting bracket from my '90GT is reused and the actuator fits perfectly on it. These are 5-wire actuators, just like the factory, which means they have internal sensing switches that keeps things in sync should you lock the doors with the door mounted "manual" lock wheels instead of the lock switch in the center console. Those internal switches also connect to the MasterCell lock/unlock inputs.
The red and blue wires move the solenoid in and out (lock/unlock). Black is ground and the purple and brown wires are the internal sense switches.
On MY setup, the wiring is as follows:
Red wire: UNLOCK --> connects to InMotion UNLOCK
Blue wire: LOCK --> connects to InMotion LOCK
The purple and brown wires connect both actuators together, AND also connects to the lock/unlock inputs on the MasterCell. A picture from InfinityBox's website shows the general wiring.
That's it for a day or two until I get the door glass in and more pictures to follow.
Cheers!
Carl
#677
Rennlist Member
So....finally an update after a brutal 5 trips around the globe. I finalized the CEB replacement panel, and now that the wiring has been tested, I installed a permanent mini fuse panel that powers among other things a relay for the ABS, some accessory devices and adds plenty of available fuses for future use. I also put the "correct" hot battery bus connector on top that can handle 350A. Reason is the InfinityBox system in that location can, if fully utilized, consume 250A and the first bus connector I used was only rated for 125A. Not that I will be using that much amperage but it is better to size it correctly.
The Bussman panel is very easy to wire and takes 5 micro relays, or 3 mini relays. I went with the micro relays as they can handle a decent 35A and have a resistor internally for protection. These are 4-pin relays and I enclosed some pictures of the setup.
The door locks are powered by electrical actuators similar to the ones used in the later ('89-up) 928, which is a pull-push actuator instead of a rotary motor used in the earlier cars. The mounting bracket from my '90GT is reused and the actuator fits perfectly on it. These are 5-wire actuators, just like the factory, which means they have internal sensing switches that keeps things in sync should you lock the doors with the door mounted "manual" lock wheels instead of the lock switch in the center console. Those internal switches also connect to the MasterCell lock/unlock inputs.
The red and blue wires move the solenoid in and out (lock/unlock). Black is ground and the purple and brown wires are the internal sense switches.
On MY setup, the wiring is as follows:
Red wire: UNLOCK --> connects to InMotion UNLOCK
Blue wire: LOCK --> connects to InMotion LOCK
The purple and brown wires connect both actuators together, AND also connects to the lock/unlock inputs on the MasterCell. A picture from InfinityBox's website shows the general wiring.
That's it for a day or two until I get the door glass in and more pictures to follow.
Cheers!
Carl
The Bussman panel is very easy to wire and takes 5 micro relays, or 3 mini relays. I went with the micro relays as they can handle a decent 35A and have a resistor internally for protection. These are 4-pin relays and I enclosed some pictures of the setup.
The door locks are powered by electrical actuators similar to the ones used in the later ('89-up) 928, which is a pull-push actuator instead of a rotary motor used in the earlier cars. The mounting bracket from my '90GT is reused and the actuator fits perfectly on it. These are 5-wire actuators, just like the factory, which means they have internal sensing switches that keeps things in sync should you lock the doors with the door mounted "manual" lock wheels instead of the lock switch in the center console. Those internal switches also connect to the MasterCell lock/unlock inputs.
The red and blue wires move the solenoid in and out (lock/unlock). Black is ground and the purple and brown wires are the internal sense switches.
On MY setup, the wiring is as follows:
Red wire: UNLOCK --> connects to InMotion UNLOCK
Blue wire: LOCK --> connects to InMotion LOCK
The purple and brown wires connect both actuators together, AND also connects to the lock/unlock inputs on the MasterCell. A picture from InfinityBox's website shows the general wiring.
That's it for a day or two until I get the door glass in and more pictures to follow.
Cheers!
Carl
#678
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#679
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 731
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44 Posts
I've just started to strip the interior out of mine and pulled some wiring. Spending too much time on water pump and water bridge delete now the motor is out on the stand.
I've been looking for a CAD drawing system for auto electrics but I can't find anything suitable. I've spent a lot of time on AutoCAD in the past but they don't seem to have anything auto and they are expensive!
What have you used to record your wiring diagrams? I keep waking up in the night with a circuit in my head and I'd like to get recording the draft.
#680
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As usual Carl, it's brilliant.
I've just started to strip the interior out of mine and pulled some wiring. Spending too much time on water pump and water bridge delete now the motor is out on the stand.
I've been looking for a CAD drawing system for auto electrics but I can't find anything suitable. I've spent a lot of time on AutoCAD in the past but they don't seem to have anything auto and they are expensive!
What have you used to record your wiring diagrams? I keep waking up in the night with a circuit in my head and I'd like to get recording the draft.
I've just started to strip the interior out of mine and pulled some wiring. Spending too much time on water pump and water bridge delete now the motor is out on the stand.
I've been looking for a CAD drawing system for auto electrics but I can't find anything suitable. I've spent a lot of time on AutoCAD in the past but they don't seem to have anything auto and they are expensive!
What have you used to record your wiring diagrams? I keep waking up in the night with a circuit in my head and I'd like to get recording the draft.
Seriously, I draw them on a grid sheet, then transfer the wiring information (connector,pin,wire color) to a spreadsheet. Eventually the spreadsheet will be made into a booklet that remains in the car. Kind of like the owner's manual size with the wiring information.
Cheers!
Carl
#681
Burning Brakes
Carl,
This is absolutely epic and inspirational. One of these days, I hope I have the time and energy to make a car like yours perhaps with pre-S4 bumpers with GTS flares, LS power and Vette transmission, simplified electrics and reliable HVAC.
Steve
This is absolutely epic and inspirational. One of these days, I hope I have the time and energy to make a car like yours perhaps with pre-S4 bumpers with GTS flares, LS power and Vette transmission, simplified electrics and reliable HVAC.
Steve
#682
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Those euros look great with the GTS fender flares in my opinion. I hope you get going on that project real soon
Standby for another "prototype upgrade" that is in the works right now
Cheers!
Carl
#683
Former Vendor
I also ordered a parking brake override from www.Microbypass.com which allows full use (including video) of the Pioneer unit regardless of parking brake position.
#685
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
They might have been shut down. But the device is available on Amazon and Ebay after a quick search this morning. It is device dependent, different manufacturers use different ground triggers it seems.
Cheers!
Carl
Cheers!
Carl
#686
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wiper motor replacement?
A small update while I wait for some wiring data from Infinitybox. One of the biggest annoyances for me has been getting the stock wiper motor to play with the Infinitybox system, and the short answer is, it won't! Being an older motor the wiring is somewhat complex and uses an external park function via the intermittent relay and (it seems) the wiper stalk connections themselves. The motor itself, it seems, has no internal park function at all.
As I do not want to keep all the stock wiring and intermittent relay, I needed to find a "modern" wiper motor that fit in the stock location, using the exact same mounting hole spacing...and it sure took some searching.
Finally, there seems to be a Bosch wiper motor that may (waiting on the wiring data) work as planned, and it fits. And it is used in other Porsches! Best part is, why pay over $500 for a new boat anchor motor when you can have a NEW 911/Boxster motor (1998-2011) for less than..drumroll....$130?
Now, this refers to the Infinitybox system, and the motor is currently on the way to them for analysis to see if it can be properly controlled with the minimum wiring possible. Once I get the wiring data, I will post it here as it MAY be a usable option for the standard 928. If someone wants to get creative and play with it on a stock 928, the part number is 0 390 241 389
Here are some comparison pictures of both motors mounted.
Cheers!
Carl
As I do not want to keep all the stock wiring and intermittent relay, I needed to find a "modern" wiper motor that fit in the stock location, using the exact same mounting hole spacing...and it sure took some searching.
Finally, there seems to be a Bosch wiper motor that may (waiting on the wiring data) work as planned, and it fits. And it is used in other Porsches! Best part is, why pay over $500 for a new boat anchor motor when you can have a NEW 911/Boxster motor (1998-2011) for less than..drumroll....$130?
Now, this refers to the Infinitybox system, and the motor is currently on the way to them for analysis to see if it can be properly controlled with the minimum wiring possible. Once I get the wiring data, I will post it here as it MAY be a usable option for the standard 928. If someone wants to get creative and play with it on a stock 928, the part number is 0 390 241 389
Here are some comparison pictures of both motors mounted.
Cheers!
Carl
#687
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Jump Post Cover...with industrial caliber jump post terminal
Since my jump post connections are a bit different from stock, preventing the use of the stock cover, I started making a replacement. While at it I upgraded the jump terminal to a more realistic sized caliber It will also get a negative (ground) terminal of the same caliber to avoid having to scratch the paint around the cross-brace bolts. Pictured during test fitting.
Cheers!
Carl
Cheers!
Carl
#688
Burning Brakes
Since my jump post connections are a bit different from stock, preventing the use of the stock cover, I started making a replacement. While at it I upgraded the jump terminal to a more realistic sized caliber It will also get a negative (ground) terminal of the same caliber to avoid having to scratch the paint around the cross-brace bolts. Pictured during test fitting.
Cheers!
Carl
Cheers!
Carl
Steve
#690
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It doesn't look professional just yet
Waiting on the paint to dry then it will look much better
It was made from a balsa wood core and then fiberglassed with 2 layers of glass, sanded and pinhole filler (the red stuff) used to smooth out the fiberglass. Followed by sanding with 400 grit paper for a smooth surface.
The shape was copied from the stock jump post cover.
Cheers!
Carl
Waiting on the paint to dry then it will look much better
It was made from a balsa wood core and then fiberglassed with 2 layers of glass, sanded and pinhole filler (the red stuff) used to smooth out the fiberglass. Followed by sanding with 400 grit paper for a smooth surface.
The shape was copied from the stock jump post cover.
Cheers!
Carl