Vilhuer

Thats interesting. WSM shows it other way round (46-13 and 46-15) and we have done several that way without problems. Probably doesn't make big difference.

GregBBRD

This has bothered me, forever. 911's always have them different, also.
If you look at it how it works, it really makes no difference which way it faces. I think if it was even remotely important, Porsche would have made a note in the WSM, not just random pictures.

This car was a virgin and this is the way it was assembled...I made notes of this feature...only.

I"m going to guess it is just a random thing, also.

OBehave

Beautiful Greg! Don't forget the infamous "Blue Clutch Hose" while the engine is out.

Mrmerlin

I would venture a guess that it has already been replaced nopte how nice the color is

GregBBRD

Absolutely! That is the old one...Kyle is going to replace the brake master, the clutch master, the clutch slave, and the blue hose, today. He's been working his way around the car..in a symbalance of order...now working back to the brakes. I've been making all new lines, for him, so he is working "around" me.

gbgastowers

Greg,
Can any of these items be rebuilt? I have to do this also. Gunar

76FJ55

I would guess it has something to do with ease of adjustment. since the adjuster is accesed form the wheel side (left access at left wheel, right access at right wheel). by flipping the adjuster side to side / top to bottom, you move the adjusting tool (screw driver) handle from the aft forward to tighten. this will be the same regardless of side you are adjusting. if you put the adjusters in both facing up or both facing down one would tighten and one would loosen as you move the tool levering the handle aft to forward.
If you've adjusted a set of these you may have noticed it is easier to tension the adjuster than back it off .

GregBBRD

While I'm sure you could, these pieces are still so readily available and so ecconomical, I'm not sure why you'd want to mess with them. Now if they were for a '54 Speedster with the metal reservour attached...

jwillman

Well economical is relative. Given all you have replaced , yes I am sure $70 each for the clutch it's cheap. At $10 each for a rebuild kit for clutch master and slave seems worth an hours worth of labor it took me to do mine.

Bill Ball

PET lists a repair kit for the slave (about 1/2 the price of a new slave - not $10) but nothing for the master nor any of its internal parts. I'm with Greg. Masters often fail due to corrosion that a repair kit doesn't address.

GregBBRD

Good point. I'm always considering how much my time costs the customer and if this effort makes sense.

GregBBRD

Few more pictures of progress, as the week draws to a close.

Repack axles, replace boots. Install and torque.



Luckily, the rear is getting completed.



Even though we mark the bolts that get torqued with blue paint, we also mark things that don't get torqued, with blue tape. Need the hydraulic brake sytem to work to torque the outer axle nuts....the emergency brake will not hold the needed amount of torque.



Another view of the rear.



Back to the empty engine bay.

Removed the clutch slave, "absurd" line that runs over the top of the starter, and the flexible hose.



Replacing that entire mess with one hose that runs around the front of the starter and hooks into the clutch slave with a banjo (top assembly in the photo.) Available from J2 Precision Hose and 928 International.



Power booster removed, new clutch master with new blue hose installed. This blue hose gets miss routed on 99% of the cars that it gets replaced on, causing clutch release problems, due to air getting trapped in this hose. Therefore, Kyle decided to run the replacement hose over the top of the fender....



There's an A/C hose that runs behind the C/D ignition unit that has a history of leaking. The line part runs all the way to the expansion valve, so it is a really tough line/hose to replace when the engine is in.



Give that hose a twist and see if the ends rotates. If it rotates, it leaks. Compare this picture with the previous one and you can see that the hose twists.


J2 Precision makes a replacement hose kit (get it from (928 International) that allows replacement of this hose with an assembly that bolts on without replacing the entire line. Here, we have cut the end of the hard line off where it attaches to the hose. We do this repair all the time, with the engine in place.



The next step is to silver solder a new AN fitting onto the existing line.



The same style AN fitting is also welded onto the piece of the line that goes to the dryer. This is not shown, but this is the replacement hose that can be replaced, if needed. However, this will probably never be needed. This is a Goodridge Teflon lined hose that is cover with Kevlar. THis hose will probably still hold freon when the cockroaches rule the earth...



For good measure, they then cover this hose with an anti-wear, heat resistant covering. Bullet proof....perhaps literally.

thal

Wow!

I can't thank you enough Greg for all the pics and explanation, a real treasure of info for a noob like me.

PS - the last pic looks like some fretting wear on the area at 9 o'clock. any concern about the metal line?

Ducman82

what did you use for a covering on that line?

GregBBRD

Not exactly sure the area that you are refering to. I haven't seen any excessive wear on any of the metal lines...but at my age, with my vision, I could miss the elephant in the living room.