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Two Valve (Pre '85) Update/Freshen

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Old 07-28-2010, 03:36 AM
  #121  
danglerb
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Except for stuff not working I like win7.

I don't blame MS entirely for the stuff not working either, ATi seems to have decided not to support Win7 on anything older than about a year or so in an attempt force people to buy new cards.

As a software person I am really looking forward to the next decade of computing, lots of things once dreamed will soon be real.
Old 07-28-2010, 12:30 PM
  #122  
svp928
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Lol! That description of Win7 is SPOT_ON! And yes, nothing moves here without mass quantities of electron wrangling.....this why I want my carbs back. Even Webers. Machines with hand cranks. Distriibutors with points and condensers. Big block Chevys.

I am a control freak, and I can only control what's guided by MY hands....the electrons "interpret" what you tell them, then do what the hell they want. Usually NOT what you told them, because you forgot a dot or slash or some other 7th grade english punctuation mark. bah. phooey.

I'm told I was born 100 yrs too late. This, by my son, the electron wrangler...bless his fuzzy logic..

OK sorry again for the hijack- Greg Brown, thanks you for posting this adventure of yours, we are happy to see what you are doing!

Steve
Old 07-28-2010, 10:42 PM
  #123  
GregBBRD
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Here's some engine pictures: No big secrets here. Just the basics.

First step is to balance all the rods. I do this myself, don't trust the balancer.



Here's the set of rods balanced. I keep everything way inside 1 gram.



Measure the inside diameter of the rods (we've determined that they are round and are the correct size, prior to this). There is always a "range" of rod sizes...although it is very small. MIght as well measure them and them put the rods where you think they will be the happiest.



These are the numbers for range. Those numbers are in tenths of thousandths. (So, the rods are all with-in .0003 of being round.)



If you feel that you might need to modify anything on the pistons, do that first.



Then, balance the pistons. Again, we stay well with-in 1 gram.

Old 07-28-2010, 10:50 PM
  #124  
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why drill the holes?
Old 07-28-2010, 10:52 PM
  #125  
Rob Edwards
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Which cost more, the car, the Mitutoyo bore gauge, or the German fine balance?
Old 07-28-2010, 10:53 PM
  #126  
IcemanG17
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Originally Posted by Ducman82
why drill the holes?
I'm not 100% sure but my guess is to even out the weight
Old 07-28-2010, 11:12 PM
  #127  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by Ducman82
why drill the holes?
I'm guessing to perhaps lubricate the wrist pins.
Old 07-28-2010, 11:28 PM
  #128  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Day 2 Pictures:

After 70,000 miles and 27 years, probably good to start with a new O2 sensor. I'm a pretty big boy and I couldn't even budge this thing with a very long wrench. We sprayed everything we had at it and let it sit overnight.



Still nothing. Did manage to begin rounding it. Applied the "hot" wrench.
Waaaaaait a minute....that pic is not the old, but the new O2. Ya didn't think wouldn't notice this?
Old 07-28-2010, 11:41 PM
  #129  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
I'm not 100% sure but my guess is to even out the weight
Oil drain back is my guess.
You can see on the bottom of some of the pin bosses where material has been removed, that is where the final balance was done.
Old 07-29-2010, 12:25 AM
  #130  
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There is factory doc including template which shows how to drill those holes to early S4 pistons. IIRR all mid '88 MY an later pistons had them from factory. They are for oil drain back.
Old 07-29-2010, 12:38 AM
  #131  
Rob Edwards
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:29 AM
  #132  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Waaaaaait a minute....that pic is not the old, but the new O2. Ya didn't think wouldn't notice this?
Good catch. Purely unintentional. I'm a bit "picture/internet handicapped".

There is a picture of the old sensor...it looks just like the new sensor...except it is frozen in the pipe...and I cut the wires
Old 07-29-2010, 02:35 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
There is factory doc including template which shows how to drill those holes to early S4 pistons. IIRR all mid '88 MY an later pistons had them from factory. They are for oil drain back.
Good. You are officially a 928 geek, to know that.

The 97mm pistons have the exact same design as the 100mm pistons that they want you to modify. Porsche is not very fond of admitting mistakes. I figure that if it works for one, it should work for the other. There is always a huge collection of oil cooked onto the piston in this area, so I add the oil return holes.
Old 07-29-2010, 06:06 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Good. You are officially a 928 geek, to know that.

The 97mm pistons have the exact same design as the 100mm pistons that they want you to modify. Porsche is not very fond of admitting mistakes. I figure that if it works for one, it should work for the other. There is always a huge collection of oil cooked onto the piston in this area, so I add the oil return holes.
this is good to know........whenever I think I "might" know something....I don't
Old 08-02-2010, 02:26 AM
  #135  
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More chassis pictures:

Rear wheel bearings felt great...even though they were leaking grease past the seals.



To change or not to change. That is the question.



The rear lug nuts came off very hard. Close inspection showed that something radical had happened to the studs...at some point in time. Note the "grinding" on that stud.



No two studs were the same length.



When you are this close....might as well change the bearings. Especially since new studs are needed.



Inspect everything. Not sure if that collapsed emergency brake springs shows up in this picture. That thing breaks and you are stuck with a huge wierd noise in the rear.



Everything in the front needs to come off. We ae upgrading to later front brakes, using later front suspension arms, etc.



Remove the caliper, rotors, hub.



This particular car must have spent some time in the east. The nice thing about this 928 is that the extent of the problem is basically hardware, aluminum pieces, and a bit of black paint being attacked.




Remove the entire shock, wishbones, and upright in one piece...leaving this.



Clean, clean, clean. Clean more. Patience will remove "east" from most pieces.



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