My son's 1980 repaint begins.
11-06-2010, 07:01 PM
#286
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-6-10
Did some buffing today. I'm using 3M Rubbing Compound 05974 and 3M polish after. The roof, hood and driver side were done. There is more orange peel than I thought and I'm not too happy with it. I am thinking about re sanding with 2000 grit again. The only "bad" area I see is the driver door window frame , if you look close, looks bad. There looks to be pits in the clear...I really should re sand that for sure at least.
Did some buffing today. I'm using 3M Rubbing Compound 05974 and 3M polish after. The roof, hood and driver side were done. There is more orange peel than I thought and I'm not too happy with it. I am thinking about re sanding with 2000 grit again. The only "bad" area I see is the driver door window frame , if you look close, looks bad. There looks to be pits in the clear...I really should re sand that for sure at least.
11-06-2010, 07:13 PM
#287
Team Owner
Dean can you post a picture of the buffing pad and the compound your using? Also you may find that you will have to sand and buff then sand and buff the whole car a few times for max gloss,
When i did my 79 it took 3 times of sanding with 2000 then buffing to get the show car shine. I hope that you using a waffle pad 3M type for buffing,
gray is the color I would suggest,
if your using a cloth type pad then you should swap it out as it is very easy to burn through an edge, also stay off the edges with the buffer only do the flat surfaces.
The orange peel portions should also be sanded more, if you dont have a squeege the you should get one they are black and will quickly tell you if you have sanded off enough of the clear to get a smooth surface,
the body supply store will have the 3M waffle pads and the rubber squeege.
When i did my 79 it took 3 times of sanding with 2000 then buffing to get the show car shine. I hope that you using a waffle pad 3M type for buffing,
gray is the color I would suggest,
if your using a cloth type pad then you should swap it out as it is very easy to burn through an edge, also stay off the edges with the buffer only do the flat surfaces.
The orange peel portions should also be sanded more, if you dont have a squeege the you should get one they are black and will quickly tell you if you have sanded off enough of the clear to get a smooth surface,
the body supply store will have the 3M waffle pads and the rubber squeege.
11-06-2010, 07:36 PM
#288
Drifting
Thread Starter
Here are the pads I'm using. I have them on loan. The off white I was told was for compound and the gray is for polish.
The pic I have of the driver door is the worst of the OP. Some areas are nice. The OP on the front fender is almost gone.
I think you are correct in saying it will need at least another sanding or 2. I'm a little uneasy because I don't want to sand too much clear off...or burn the clear by being too aggressive with the buffer.
The pic I have of the driver door is the worst of the OP. Some areas are nice. The OP on the front fender is almost gone.
I think you are correct in saying it will need at least another sanding or 2. I'm a little uneasy because I don't want to sand too much clear off...or burn the clear by being too aggressive with the buffer.
11-06-2010, 07:51 PM
#289
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dean can you post a picture of the buffing pad and the compound your using? Also you may find that you will have to sand and buff then sand and buff the whole car a few times for max gloss,
When i did my 79 it took 3 times of sanding with 2000 then buffing to get the show car shine. I hope that you using a waffle pad 3M type for buffing,
gray is the color I would suggest,
if your using a cloth type pad then you should swap it out as it is very easy to burn through an edge, also stay off the edges with the buffer only do the flat surfaces.
The orange peel portions should also be sanded more, if you dont have a squeege the you should get one they are black and will quickly tell you if you have sanded off enough of the clear to get a smooth surface,
the body supply store will have the 3M waffle pads and the rubber squeege.
When i did my 79 it took 3 times of sanding with 2000 then buffing to get the show car shine. I hope that you using a waffle pad 3M type for buffing,
gray is the color I would suggest,
if your using a cloth type pad then you should swap it out as it is very easy to burn through an edge, also stay off the edges with the buffer only do the flat surfaces.
The orange peel portions should also be sanded more, if you dont have a squeege the you should get one they are black and will quickly tell you if you have sanded off enough of the clear to get a smooth surface,
the body supply store will have the 3M waffle pads and the rubber squeege.
The squeege is something I still need to buy. I just need to find one cheap.
11-06-2010, 08:39 PM
#290
Team Owner
Thanks dean at this point i think you will be OK with using the 2000 grip paper your not going to do any damage unless you really bear down FWIW I had 3 coats of clear on my car we used medium build clear
1 lite coat
1 heavier coat
the last a medium/heavy coat, it took me 3 times to get the show car shine, and i didnt have as much OP as you do.
Can post a picture of the compound.
the waffle pads look good for what your doing
1 lite coat
1 heavier coat
the last a medium/heavy coat, it took me 3 times to get the show car shine, and i didnt have as much OP as you do.
Can post a picture of the compound.
the waffle pads look good for what your doing
11-06-2010, 09:44 PM
#291
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Definitely looks like you need to keep going with the wet sanding.
Looks really good, I wish I could see the progress in person.
Looks really good, I wish I could see the progress in person.
11-07-2010, 04:16 PM
#292
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-7-10
Re sanded the roof and hood today. I just was not happy with the reflection. I used a squeegee this time and the sanding was MUCH better. The squeegee lets you wipe the water away as you sand. This lets you see right away if the sanding has leveled the clear coat. MUCH easier. I am MUCH happier with the final roof and hood now. I re compounded and polished as well. A world of difference in person. The OP that left ( what very little there is ) I can live with.
I know this seems like its drawn out and it may be but if this thread helps someone its worth the trouble. We really don't have an "in depth" thread on painting. Alot I've done wrong but if you read the entire thread the problems have been corrected so far.
Re sanded the roof and hood today. I just was not happy with the reflection. I used a squeegee this time and the sanding was MUCH better. The squeegee lets you wipe the water away as you sand. This lets you see right away if the sanding has leveled the clear coat. MUCH easier. I am MUCH happier with the final roof and hood now. I re compounded and polished as well. A world of difference in person. The OP that left ( what very little there is ) I can live with.
I know this seems like its drawn out and it may be but if this thread helps someone its worth the trouble. We really don't have an "in depth" thread on painting. Alot I've done wrong but if you read the entire thread the problems have been corrected so far.
11-07-2010, 04:25 PM
#293
Rennlist Member
Inspiring to see you take this challenge, and lay it down for the rest of us.
Am curious where you are with total expenditure for materials.
Maybe $1500?
Am curious where you are with total expenditure for materials.
Maybe $1500?
11-07-2010, 05:32 PM
#296
Nordschleife Master
Dean, this is just getting better and better! I can't wait till you get my car all back together for me and running! LOL! I REALLY, REALLY do love it! All this work you are doing is just first class and GORGEOUS!
11-07-2010, 06:43 PM
#297
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks guys...I hope it gives others some confidence and encouragement.
I went ahead and re sanded the driver door that I was VERY worried about. I thought it looked terrible after the first sanding and buffing. I am very happy to report the before and after is amazing!!! I very pleased with the out come....one to the next panel!
I went ahead and re sanded the driver door that I was VERY worried about. I thought it looked terrible after the first sanding and buffing. I am very happy to report the before and after is amazing!!! I very pleased with the out come....one to the next panel!
11-07-2010, 06:58 PM
#298
Team Owner
Dean see how the squeege helps to find out how your sanding is going??
Its like magic.
The paint looks great, you might find one more sanding and then another buff and you can read newspaper print in the finish,
in the mean time it looks excellent!
To wash the car only use about 1 oz of car soap,( NOT dish soap) mixed into 2 gallons of cold water
A chamois is a good thing try to leave it in the sun so the paint will continue to cure it will take a few months
Its like magic.
The paint looks great, you might find one more sanding and then another buff and you can read newspaper print in the finish,
in the mean time it looks excellent!
To wash the car only use about 1 oz of car soap,( NOT dish soap) mixed into 2 gallons of cold water
A chamois is a good thing try to leave it in the sun so the paint will continue to cure it will take a few months
11-07-2010, 06:59 PM
#299
Drifting
Thread Starter
For those following along at home...and for those like ME who like to see a pic of whats going on...this is what makes ORANGE PEEL visible. I'm NO PRO but if this is what your seeing after wet sanding ...keep sanding!! It sure doesn't look like it would ruin your paint job but I'm REALLY glad I was told ( THANKS Mrmerlin) how to get rid of it.
11-07-2010, 07:32 PM
#300
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Well this is a real labour of love and I'm glad the rewards for all your hard work are now starting to show. I still think it would look really good with the alloys you had on at the beginning rather than Teledials but just my 2c.