My son's 1980 repaint begins.
11-01-2010, 08:12 AM
#271
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Dean that looks really really good. Looking at those pictures you have about the same amount of orange peel as Mercedes did on their production cars in the 80's. A little wet sanding and it will look more like Porsche's orange peel. Of course you can go further and make it look like metallic green glass with a bit more wet sanding.
Can't wait to see this car out in the sun fully assembled, it will look awesome.
Can't wait to see this car out in the sun fully assembled, it will look awesome.
11-01-2010, 08:28 AM
#272
Rennlist Member
I love my original black paint, I love my original black paint, I love my original black paint . . .. Damn. I gotta keep saying that or I'll end up with a green car soon.
11-01-2010, 02:22 PM
#274
Drifting
Thread Starter
I am down to painting bumpers now and am still a little unsure.
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip all primer back to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) reapply "Bulldog" over all putty locations.
5) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
6) Block sand with 600.
7) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
8) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
My bumpers were primed months ago but have many cracks now from flexing.
My plan is as follows.
1) Strip all primer back to rubber.
2) apply "Bulldog" which is a adhesion promoter.
3) I plan to use "Evercoat Euro-Soft Polyester Glazing Putty 100408" at all imperfections. This is a flexible body filler if I understand correctly.
4) reapply "Bulldog" over all putty locations.
5) Add Martin Senior flex additive 3084 to primer and prime.
6) Block sand with 600.
7) add same flex additive to base paint and paint.
8) Add same flex additive to clear and clear.
NOTE...all this OFF the car!!!
Does anyone see a mistake???
11-02-2010, 12:41 AM
#278
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SB CA
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Yeah, baby, yeah! that looks awesome! sorry to be out of touch, just had a chance to review the progress and it is stunning! Great work Dean! keept he pics coming, that's going to be a beauty!
11-05-2010, 06:12 PM
#279
Drifting
Thread Starter
11-5-10
Wet sanding the clear. I want to buff what I have done so far before going any further. My main problem has always been "when is it enough"?
I have wet sanded 2 times with 2000 grit. One pic is enhanced to show what my question is. I assume all these low places should have the same sanding marks to assure me the surface is flat.
Is that correct??? Once the entire car has the same sanding marks I'm done with sanding??? Can I just sand these areas now to match?
Wet sanding the clear. I want to buff what I have done so far before going any further. My main problem has always been "when is it enough"?
I have wet sanded 2 times with 2000 grit. One pic is enhanced to show what my question is. I assume all these low places should have the same sanding marks to assure me the surface is flat.
Is that correct??? Once the entire car has the same sanding marks I'm done with sanding??? Can I just sand these areas now to match?
11-05-2010, 06:29 PM
#280
Burning Brakes
11-05-2010, 10:06 PM
#282
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Dean--
I trust you are using at least a sanding block (rubber one for wet sanding) and hopefully a longboard for last licks on each coat. When you find places like the ones in your picture that ended up a little low, be careful. It's tempting to try to flatten/straighten the panel at the clear stage, but you are past that and need to stop before you blow through the clear in the surrounding "higher" areas. Ditto with the polisher-- go it it as evenly as you can. If you focus on those low areas that still show some texture, the problem will only get worse. The spots you see now will disappear after polishing and some glaze and wax. Burn or sand through the claer, or even make it noticeably uneven, and everyone will notice. Consider that a 2 mil difference in clear depth will be a lot more noticeable at 3 than it will be at 5 or 6mil thickness. Go easy. It's easier to come back later and cut a little than it is to reshoot a panel.
I trust you are using at least a sanding block (rubber one for wet sanding) and hopefully a longboard for last licks on each coat. When you find places like the ones in your picture that ended up a little low, be careful. It's tempting to try to flatten/straighten the panel at the clear stage, but you are past that and need to stop before you blow through the clear in the surrounding "higher" areas. Ditto with the polisher-- go it it as evenly as you can. If you focus on those low areas that still show some texture, the problem will only get worse. The spots you see now will disappear after polishing and some glaze and wax. Burn or sand through the claer, or even make it noticeably uneven, and everyone will notice. Consider that a 2 mil difference in clear depth will be a lot more noticeable at 3 than it will be at 5 or 6mil thickness. Go easy. It's easier to come back later and cut a little than it is to reshoot a panel.
11-05-2010, 10:53 PM
#283
Team Owner
Dean I dont how your wet sanding,
but as DrBob pointed out you should be using a sanding block, also use car soap mixed into the water you use a spray bottle is a good thing and if you dont already have one a small rubber squeege ..
The technique is spray on the water then sand with the block then spray some more to rinse then wipe with the squeege this will quickly show where the orange peel is.
Dont over sand even though you have 6 coats of clear a little orange peel is OK and once its buffed you will have a very hard time finding it
but as DrBob pointed out you should be using a sanding block, also use car soap mixed into the water you use a spray bottle is a good thing and if you dont already have one a small rubber squeege ..
The technique is spray on the water then sand with the block then spray some more to rinse then wipe with the squeege this will quickly show where the orange peel is.
Dont over sand even though you have 6 coats of clear a little orange peel is OK and once its buffed you will have a very hard time finding it
11-06-2010, 04:12 AM
#284
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes...I am using a sanding block with a spray bottle. I know that the water and sand paper need to stay as clean as possible so there are no scratches from any trash.
I will buff and if its not to my liking I assume I can re sand as needed.
I will buff and if its not to my liking I assume I can re sand as needed.
11-06-2010, 09:32 AM
#285
Team Owner
are you using a squeege?
Yes you can always re sand,
Note if your not sue=re about the buffing test an area on the bottom of the car first
What kind of buffing program are you using,
IE pad type and compound type?
Yes you can always re sand,
Note if your not sue=re about the buffing test an area on the bottom of the car first
What kind of buffing program are you using,
IE pad type and compound type?