The Twin Screw Thread
#886
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Originally Posted by Jim_H
Here is my GT motor with powder coated cam covers and SC
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...chmentid=90936
Jim, that pulley is way way too big
#887
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I'm having some high pressure teflon SS braided fuel lines made. The stock 86 regulator has a push on fitting that hooks to the return line. That fitting now goes to the Begi and is the "weak link" in my system. Can I swap the 86 regulator out with a 89 regulator which has the ball & socket nut fitting instead of the push on? I'm running 30# injectors. I believe the 89 regulator operates at a lower pressure than the 86 regulator. Is this correct? Wouldn't it be better to go to the lower pressure regulator anyway since I'm using the 30# injectors?
#888
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Originally Posted by Pizza
I'm having some high pressure teflon SS braided fuel lines made. The stock 86 regulator has a push on fitting that hooks to the return line. That fitting now goes to the Begi and is the "weak link" in my system. Can I swap the 86 regulator out with a 89 regulator which has the ball & socket nut fitting instead of the push on? I'm running 30# injectors. I believe the 89 regulator operates at a lower pressure than the 86 regulator. Is this correct? Wouldn't it be better to go to the lower pressure regulator anyway since I'm using the 30# injectors?
This is my fuel line and regulator set up. I'm running 6.5 pounds of boost without an intercooler, no fuel dampeners, 30 pound injectors., and am using a SMT-6 piggy back for fuel and spark control.
The fuel system under the engine bay retains nothing stock. I machined a steel block to accept the stock flair-style fitting coming off of the stock fuel feed line from the gas tank (I did not want to cut this line). The feed line goes to a -6 push-lock line (pushlock is rated to 250psi) into a magna-fuel -6x-6x-6 Y-block. The block Y's to both of the fuel rails with -6 line. The fuel rails are custom built from http://www.behindbarsracecars.com/. They are 17" long, the end ports are 3/8" NPT fittings and the injectors are 4.82" center to center and the injector holes are .530". The injecotr holes are centered in the 17" rail. We had to weld mounting taps to the fuel rails as well as the bracket we made for the throttle cable. The rails go into a Aeromotive A1000 2 port fuel regulator (30-100psi unit) then out to the stock return line. None of the stock hardlines had to be modified in any way, we adapted everything to them. This regulator raises on a 1:1 ratio with boost (as most do). (Installed by Custom Creative Cycles)
#891
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MotorSport INC. Custom Fan
Drop it in, 4 bolts, a couple of connections and presto, super fan. Very nice workmanship The bonus is if someone gets by you you can turn up the fan speed with the variable controller and suck them back to you
Nice job, Dave
Nice job, Dave
#892
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The 86 reg. is also threaded, besied the push on fitting.
Originally Posted by Pizza
I'm having some high pressure teflon SS braided fuel lines made. The stock 86 regulator has a push on fitting that hooks to the return line. That fitting now goes to the Begi and is the "weak link" in my system. Can I swap the 86 regulator out with a 89 regulator which has the ball & socket nut fitting instead of the push on? I'm running 30# injectors. I believe the 89 regulator operates at a lower pressure than the 86 regulator. Is this correct? Wouldn't it be better to go to the lower pressure regulator anyway since I'm using the 30# injectors?
#893
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Originally Posted by Jim_H
I have too much slack in my line from the throttle bracket to the throttle body. Anyone else run into this?
Looks to me like you need "Bobble Head" Bills pulley set up. That will make the cable run to the throttle at a cleaner angle.
Also, be sure to check for WOT at the throttle plate...vs the throttle linkage.
What kind of pulley set up is that? Wheres the PS..ALT....serpentine?
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Originally Posted by Pizza
I believe the 89 regulator operates at a lower pressure than the 86 regulator. Is this correct? Wouldn't it be better to go to the lower pressure regulator anyway since I'm using the 30# injectors?
#895
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I didn't have the throttle body pushed out to the fender far enough. that took up some slack and some adjusting a bit more. I still have 1/4 to 1/2" before I hit the stop on the throttle body. You wouldn't know it by the way it moves
Louis Ott saw the set up this morning and was ready to drop everything and start fabricating a better set up. I swear guys like him, Ken, Bill, you and many others just start drooling when you see something you can improve on.
Anyhoo, had a nice 3 hour round trip with my new lung and had forgotten just how freaking fun and fast the TS makes these cars.
Louis Ott saw the set up this morning and was ready to drop everything and start fabricating a better set up. I swear guys like him, Ken, Bill, you and many others just start drooling when you see something you can improve on.
Anyhoo, had a nice 3 hour round trip with my new lung and had forgotten just how freaking fun and fast the TS makes these cars.
Originally Posted by Tony
Looks to me like you need "Bobble Head" Bills pulley set up. That will make the cable run to the throttle at a cleaner angle.
Also, be sure to check for WOT at the throttle plate...vs the throttle linkage.
What kind of pulley set up is that? Wheres the PS..ALT....serpentine?
Also, be sure to check for WOT at the throttle plate...vs the throttle linkage.
What kind of pulley set up is that? Wheres the PS..ALT....serpentine?
#896
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Hey, Jim, when did this happen? Thought it was a flashback to the RIP red.
I owe a bunch of people brackets. You could use one. If you can't wait, you can make one yourself from this description.
Note: This is the wheel I use.
http://www.swisco.com/page/SI/PROD/p...s-axles/81-228 - Common hardware store item, as well as the aluminum angle. Figure cost of parts, less than $10.
I don't have the measurements on the drawing as I don't have any completed at the moment.
Oh, and these drawings were done with MS Paint! Hah, hah.
I owe a bunch of people brackets. You could use one. If you can't wait, you can make one yourself from this description.
Note: This is the wheel I use.
http://www.swisco.com/page/SI/PROD/p...s-axles/81-228 - Common hardware store item, as well as the aluminum angle. Figure cost of parts, less than $10.
I don't have the measurements on the drawing as I don't have any completed at the moment.
Oh, and these drawings were done with MS Paint! Hah, hah.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 04-17-2006 at 08:22 PM.
#897
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Also, when you use this bracket with Andy's throttle body setup, you turn the throttle body so the linkage is vertical. When you do this it throws Andy's connector for the idle speed valve out of kilter, so I had to use a 3/4" 90 degree copper elbow and some new hose pieces at the front connector.
Here's a picture of the bracket on Derek's car. Ignore the text. Sorry, it doesn't show the ISV elbow.
Here's a picture of the bracket on Derek's car. Ignore the text. Sorry, it doesn't show the ISV elbow.
#898
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This bracket looks great !
Does anybody know what the source for the throttle cable was that Andy was using. I think that if I build the bracket and rollers that my cable will be to short.
Regards,
Ken
Does anybody know what the source for the throttle cable was that Andy was using. I think that if I build the bracket and rollers that my cable will be to short.
Regards,
Ken
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The cable for 86 and earlier was custom. You may be able to find someone locally that builds motorcycle cables. The only odd part is the ball end. Can't remember how Andy joined that to the cable, but it may nave been a mechanical splice clamp. Tony had some custom cables built for his installation. Maybe he can advise.