The Twin Screw Thread
#2356
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David Roberts
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David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com
928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM
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#2358
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Assembly complete. Should be able to drop it in tomorrow. Still have to figure out a few things, so I doubt it will be finished tomorrow, but it's close.
#2359
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Almost there! It's a very tight fit, but it does fit. I can only get about 3 thread son the top studs on the air box, but at least I can get that many.
Ive already installed the fuel injectors and the fuel rails. Hoses are mostly hooked up. I have to work on the ISV? It fits where it was, but needs to be tweaked.
Then, it's throttle bodies, air filters, and throttle linkage.
It's been a fun weekend!
Ive already installed the fuel injectors and the fuel rails. Hoses are mostly hooked up. I have to work on the ISV? It fits where it was, but needs to be tweaked.
Then, it's throttle bodies, air filters, and throttle linkage.
It's been a fun weekend!
#2362
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Here's a pic with the fuel rails installed from this morning. For some reason the fuel rails didn't go back in as easily. I think the by-pass pipe is pushing on things a bit. I also need to re-do the ISV.
The throttle linkage will be the same as it was in the past. I will, however have to make a new arm that goes from the throttle quadrant to the primary throttle body (driver-side) since now the air box sits back about 1". Nothing too hard to fab, I think.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-muZywrupd8Q/UDujbWk7qPI/AAAAAAAAHXc/KmUNA3dgElA/s912/IMAGE_B133CF6B-DE78-4A0D-BE25-1DBBC2AAE228.JPG)
The throttle linkage will be the same as it was in the past. I will, however have to make a new arm that goes from the throttle quadrant to the primary throttle body (driver-side) since now the air box sits back about 1". Nothing too hard to fab, I think.
#2363
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Here's a pic with the fuel rails installed from this morning. For some reason the fuel rails didn't go back in as easily. I think the by-pass pipe is pushing on things a bit. I also need to re-do the ISV.
The throttle linkage will be the same as it was in the past. I will, however have to make a new arm that goes from the throttle quadrant to the primary throttle body (driver-side) since now the air box sits back about 1". Nothing too hard to fab, I think.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-muZywrupd8Q/UDujbWk7qPI/AAAAAAAAHXc/KmUNA3dgElA/s912/IMAGE_B133CF6B-DE78-4A0D-BE25-1DBBC2AAE228.JPG)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EIuKZPrR554/UDujcDV06AI/AAAAAAAAHXk/1sLLTNINnXk/s912/IMAGE_D31FF6BC-FD21-4584-9C2C-270FCDB3511A.JPG)
The throttle linkage will be the same as it was in the past. I will, however have to make a new arm that goes from the throttle quadrant to the primary throttle body (driver-side) since now the air box sits back about 1". Nothing too hard to fab, I think.
#2364
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Hi Tony, here's a quick pic... Appears to be about 8 3/4" or 22cm. It is a super tight fit. DR posted a pic of the v2.0 air box which is much shallower. As soon as I get the euro here I can measure that for you too. We could very easily retrofit it to work with your SCer, but I think yours is pretty damn nice being ducted into the fender and all... Just sayin'.
#2365
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Well I got it up and running yesterday. You can tell by my intro there are some issues.
I pressure tested the intake and it seems quite happy. There were a couple of issue, but I was able to fix them. With the help of my sone, we readjusted the throttle linkage. I can't believe it, bit I was only getting half throttle before. I think when I had to swap throttle cables a few years ago, I didn't adjust it properly. Anyway, I now get full throttle.
I was able to relocate the ISV off to the side and that seems pretty stable. I'll post pics later today.
The big issue I'm having is the snout was pouring oil out. the donor SCer is an update KB 2.1l. After doing some research, I found that KB got rid of the top vent on the snouts because it caused so many issues with leaking oil. turns out, the way they now deal with venting the head pressure is thought a vented pulley bolt. The bolt that hold the pulley has a small ~1mm hole in the middle. The centrifugal force keeps oil away from the middle and allows the pressure to escape without any oil. Prett smart actually.
Unfortunately, the bolt sizes are different. My snout uses a M10 bolt. The vented bolt is a M12. Plus I think there is a slight change to the snout itself to allow the pressure to make its way to that vented hole. So I'm going to modify a cheap "One man brake bleed kit" to serve as a catch can for any oil that come out of the SCer. Hopefully it's just an issue of over filling and it will find it's happy spot and stay steady. I may look into getting an updated snout, but for now it looks like I have to live with the old style.
The short run I took it on around the block shows that it makes about 3 psi more with this unit that the 1.7l. It was pretty warm yesterday, but I still saw 10.6 psi. I think on a cool morning, it should make about 12+. That level of boost should be good for right around 500whp which was my goal.
I pressure tested the intake and it seems quite happy. There were a couple of issue, but I was able to fix them. With the help of my sone, we readjusted the throttle linkage. I can't believe it, bit I was only getting half throttle before. I think when I had to swap throttle cables a few years ago, I didn't adjust it properly. Anyway, I now get full throttle.
I was able to relocate the ISV off to the side and that seems pretty stable. I'll post pics later today.
The big issue I'm having is the snout was pouring oil out. the donor SCer is an update KB 2.1l. After doing some research, I found that KB got rid of the top vent on the snouts because it caused so many issues with leaking oil. turns out, the way they now deal with venting the head pressure is thought a vented pulley bolt. The bolt that hold the pulley has a small ~1mm hole in the middle. The centrifugal force keeps oil away from the middle and allows the pressure to escape without any oil. Prett smart actually.
Unfortunately, the bolt sizes are different. My snout uses a M10 bolt. The vented bolt is a M12. Plus I think there is a slight change to the snout itself to allow the pressure to make its way to that vented hole. So I'm going to modify a cheap "One man brake bleed kit" to serve as a catch can for any oil that come out of the SCer. Hopefully it's just an issue of over filling and it will find it's happy spot and stay steady. I may look into getting an updated snout, but for now it looks like I have to live with the old style.
The short run I took it on around the block shows that it makes about 3 psi more with this unit that the 1.7l. It was pretty warm yesterday, but I still saw 10.6 psi. I think on a cool morning, it should make about 12+. That level of boost should be good for right around 500whp which was my goal.
#2368
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Here are the pics. I made a temporary catch can out of a one-man brake bleeder kit that you can get at HF for a few bucks. Not very pretty, but it works and its better than letting any oil spew about the place. I think I may have overfilled it when I tried it yesterday. It puked a lot of oil and when I went to fill it today, I only needed to add a tiny amount. Those KB dipsticks are super hard to read.
When I took it out today, it made a twitch over 12psi. I'm now thinking this thing might make 14psi on a cool morning. Sweet!![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
The first pic is of the vented bolt I mentioned. Still want to look into it because it's just a really cleaver solution to this oil problem.
Oh, and I tried to install a heat exchanger from a cobra, but I can't fit it in without removing the receiver/dryer. Didn't want to do that quite yet, but maybe this winter, so until then I'm will continue to use the double heater core setup.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YkJlzf-o97Q/UEPXF_PsKJI/AAAAAAAAHcM/6mNeHXajM40/s1024/IMAGE_9B2929B0-4567-4BB7-8D2E-AB5257450C1B.JPG)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ceSJMsKcC-g/UEPXHszRHmI/AAAAAAAAHcU/v12mL8nX21Y/s1024/IMAGE_8AC18A93-A770-4DE9-AA90-FB928F1AE7BA.JPG)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5jaZen3vuYc/UEPXIxHXTRI/AAAAAAAAHcc/FIAK_ILtIvA/s1024/IMAGE_507EF700-37F2-4544-B3E4-8F036AAB200D.JPG)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C3O3O8iKSuE/UEPXKqV6hMI/AAAAAAAAHck/lXbg1pX-PLQ/s1024/IMAGE_871E34E8-E22D-4EA0-B9B7-123F85C6DCC2.JPG)
When I took it out today, it made a twitch over 12psi. I'm now thinking this thing might make 14psi on a cool morning. Sweet!
![Cool](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
The first pic is of the vented bolt I mentioned. Still want to look into it because it's just a really cleaver solution to this oil problem.
Oh, and I tried to install a heat exchanger from a cobra, but I can't fit it in without removing the receiver/dryer. Didn't want to do that quite yet, but maybe this winter, so until then I'm will continue to use the double heater core setup.
#2369
Race Car
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What thickness spacers did you use for the intake? Sorry I was on vacation without access to phone/internet so couldn't respond earlier. I was unable to find a suitable size on McMaster, so I had to make my own. I found out that the perfect thickness spacer for the stock rubber intake gaskets is 5/32" or 4mm. The gasket is ~5mm and requires 1mm of crush.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#2370
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I found that two 5/16" stainless steel lock washers stacked up fits the bill. So far so good. Going to re-pressurize this weekend to see if it is still holding, but I was making 12.1 psi tonight so I think its holding.
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