Installing an Aftermarket Remote Entry System?
12-28-2005, 03:56 AM
#61
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OK, I'm getting back to doing my 89's rear hatch remote release. I've had the keyless entry to the main doors operating. Somehow I wired it myself and got it to work including the flashing lights. Too bad the 89 does not have the same nicely enumerated alarm box that the GTS has. It took me hours to decipher the 89 wiring schematics to find the right points.
Anyway, I guess my 89 is very close to Paul's 88 configuration. Here is his schematic. I have a few questions about it. The diodes have me confused. I understand the diodes to the side marker lights and have them installed on my car as well, but I don't get how the arrangement of diodes around the alarm module wires works. I don't have any diodes on the lock and unlock wires. Seems to work without them OK. Also, it looks like current flow between the alarm module and the centeral locking control is completely blocked by these diodes. Doesn't make sense to me. It looks like the pulses from the remote control have no where to go in this schematic as it runs into the blocking side of the diodes.
Anyway, I guess my 89 is very close to Paul's 88 configuration. Here is his schematic. I have a few questions about it. The diodes have me confused. I understand the diodes to the side marker lights and have them installed on my car as well, but I don't get how the arrangement of diodes around the alarm module wires works. I don't have any diodes on the lock and unlock wires. Seems to work without them OK. Also, it looks like current flow between the alarm module and the centeral locking control is completely blocked by these diodes. Doesn't make sense to me. It looks like the pulses from the remote control have no where to go in this schematic as it runs into the blocking side of the diodes.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-28-2005 at 05:19 AM.
12-28-2005, 10:46 AM
#62
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Bill - all the lock, unlock, hatch outputs are active low, or -Ve outputs - that means they go low only when triggered so the diodes are the correct orientation and cause the other side of the diode to be pulled low only when they activate.
The lock & alarm module have other existing connectons that are not shown - these are only the new wires - you don't need to change anything else.
Basically the keyless entry lock signal goes to both the alarm (arm) and the lock module (lock). The diodes ensure these still operate independantly in normal mode since on an 88 they are not directly connected together (on a GTS they are one and the same thing). Similarly for the keyless entry hatch open and door unlock we need to connect them to to both the alarm (disarm) and the lock module (unlock). in order that these don't always operate together we need the diode for isolation between the circuits in inactive mode and common operation in active mode.
Hope this is sufficient explaination...
Alan
The lock & alarm module have other existing connectons that are not shown - these are only the new wires - you don't need to change anything else.
Basically the keyless entry lock signal goes to both the alarm (arm) and the lock module (lock). The diodes ensure these still operate independantly in normal mode since on an 88 they are not directly connected together (on a GTS they are one and the same thing). Similarly for the keyless entry hatch open and door unlock we need to connect them to to both the alarm (disarm) and the lock module (unlock). in order that these don't always operate together we need the diode for isolation between the circuits in inactive mode and common operation in active mode.
Hope this is sufficient explaination...
Alan
12-28-2005, 11:00 AM
#63
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Lex-
Sorry, I didn't see this earlier. I do not have the remote start - I thought it a bit over the top and unnexccessary.
Alan-
FYI, I got the diodes you reccomended, but have not installed them yet. I have them all soldered, heat-shrinked and ready to go. I will report as soon as I have them done.
Sorry, I didn't see this earlier. I do not have the remote start - I thought it a bit over the top and unnexccessary.
Alan-
FYI, I got the diodes you reccomended, but have not installed them yet. I have them all soldered, heat-shrinked and ready to go. I will report as soon as I have them done.
12-28-2005, 02:10 PM
#64
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Originally Posted by Alan
Bill - all the lock, unlock, hatch outputs are active low, or -Ve outputs - that means they go low only when triggered so the diodes are the correct orientation and cause the other side of the diode to be pulled low only when they activate.
The lock & alarm module have other existing connectons that are not shown - these are only the new wires - you don't need to change anything else.
Basically the keyless entry lock signal goes to both the alarm (arm) and the lock module (lock). The diodes ensure these still operate independantly in normal mode since on an 88 they are not directly connected together (on a GTS they are one and the same thing). Similarly for the keyless entry hatch open and door unlock we need to connect them to to both the alarm (disarm) and the lock module (unlock). in order that these don't always operate together we need the diode for isolation between the circuits in inactive mode and common operation in active mode.
Hope this is sufficient explaination...
Alan
The lock & alarm module have other existing connectons that are not shown - these are only the new wires - you don't need to change anything else.
Basically the keyless entry lock signal goes to both the alarm (arm) and the lock module (lock). The diodes ensure these still operate independantly in normal mode since on an 88 they are not directly connected together (on a GTS they are one and the same thing). Similarly for the keyless entry hatch open and door unlock we need to connect them to to both the alarm (disarm) and the lock module (unlock). in order that these don't always operate together we need the diode for isolation between the circuits in inactive mode and common operation in active mode.
Hope this is sufficient explaination...
Alan
Oh, yeah, the -ve explains the current flow versus the diodes in the lock/unlock circuits. Forgot that they are grounding. Am I right that 89 doesn't require these diodes?
12-29-2005, 02:07 AM
#66
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Originally Posted by Alan
Bill,
As far as I can see the '88 and '89 are the same for locks and alarm.
Alan
As far as I can see the '88 and '89 are the same for locks and alarm.
Alan
10-08-2006, 07:41 PM
#67
ON porst #27, where is the alarm control unit located? I found the control behind the glovebox but it looks nothing like the one on post #27 (or that one is only on the GT and GTS?).
Thank you,
Btw this for MY88
Thank you,
Btw this for MY88
10-09-2006, 06:37 PM
#68
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Gio:
The box shown in post #27 is for later MY, not your 88 or my 89. Too bad, as it provides a handy place for just about all the wire taps for the aftermarket system. I tapped into most of the needed wires in the harness that runs off the other alarm box right behind the radio. These wires run in a bundle on the passenger side of the console and head to the alarm box you found behind the glovebox.
The box shown in post #27 is for later MY, not your 88 or my 89. Too bad, as it provides a handy place for just about all the wire taps for the aftermarket system. I tapped into most of the needed wires in the harness that runs off the other alarm box right behind the radio. These wires run in a bundle on the passenger side of the console and head to the alarm box you found behind the glovebox.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 10-09-2006 at 09:20 PM.
10-09-2006, 08:47 PM
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I know this has more than likely been asked many.. many.. many times... but is it honetly that hard to find a good shop that does this for you? I've had them installed in just about everything.. Including the Jag which as I am sure I am not the only owner of one that is on Renn.. but that thing has a Lucas elec. system... Which for those just tuning into the show means out of the box.. "If it's Lucas, it's already broke" at least that seemed to be their slogan..
Don't get me wrong.. Kudo's for installing it yourself. I wish I had the patience for it but I am afraid I'd send a spanner through a window when I lost my temper... installing a keyless system is something I most Def. want to do... but the new girl loves the "Chiverly factor" since the relay in the pass. door works but not the drivers door to lock and unlock all doors... it means she gets in first..
Don't get me wrong.. Kudo's for installing it yourself. I wish I had the patience for it but I am afraid I'd send a spanner through a window when I lost my temper... installing a keyless system is something I most Def. want to do... but the new girl loves the "Chiverly factor" since the relay in the pass. door works but not the drivers door to lock and unlock all doors... it means she gets in first..
10-09-2006, 09:12 PM
#71
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I would not let anyone touch my car to install a Stereo - let alone a Keyless Entry... are there good shops out there that just know how to do this - I say absolutely None!
Are there any good electrical shops that could do it if you already have the factory workshop manuals and provide them some critical info on how - probably some - but really not that many that will do it really well.
The 928 is just too diffrent from the cars they normally deal with and they are not likley to get the hatch right nor understand how the door locks or alarm work...
Many of the electrically butchered cars we hear about on rennlist were actually butchered by so called 'professionals' - think about that... I want to know exactly what was done to my car and how to un-do it as well.
Alan
Are there any good electrical shops that could do it if you already have the factory workshop manuals and provide them some critical info on how - probably some - but really not that many that will do it really well.
The 928 is just too diffrent from the cars they normally deal with and they are not likley to get the hatch right nor understand how the door locks or alarm work...
Many of the electrically butchered cars we hear about on rennlist were actually butchered by so called 'professionals' - think about that... I want to know exactly what was done to my car and how to un-do it as well.
Alan
02-09-2007, 02:43 PM
#72
Drifting
I can't read electrical schematics. Tried, made my head hurt. I have a Viper alarm installed with unlocks and an auxiliary button. I'd like to make that auxiliary button pop the hatch. Does anyone have step by step instructions in layman's terms on how to wire that to happen?
02-09-2007, 02:54 PM
#73
Drifting
I know, on the 90' S4/GT, for trunk release, you don't need to run a wires to the pull switch.
You can tap into a wire at the CE (central electrics) fuse/relay panel. Plug S11 (yellow wire). Positive signal opens the hatch.
But you need to put the alarm in suspend mode at the same time. Negative signal at Pin 6 (Brown/Blue) at the Additional Alarm Control Module.
You can tap into a wire at the CE (central electrics) fuse/relay panel. Plug S11 (yellow wire). Positive signal opens the hatch.
But you need to put the alarm in suspend mode at the same time. Negative signal at Pin 6 (Brown/Blue) at the Additional Alarm Control Module.
02-09-2007, 03:12 PM
#74
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Borland - some years have this loop through on the CE panel (90-95) - handy. However the hatch should not operate without the door being open... something is odd if your car works this way. With the doors closed does your hatch release button work? It shouldn't and won't on most cars. If you swap the brown wire at the hatch release motor to a permanent ground (maybe you did) it will work as you suggest - but that defeats the door lockout for the hatch pulls also.
Alan
Alan
