View Poll Results: For only a head gasket replacement only on a 16v and no other service work, would you
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Blown/Damaged Head Gasket?
#421
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Took out the pressure screw out but a magnet won't retrieve anything. The mightyvac just comes out with gas in the line and won't create suction to anything.
Here's a boroscope photo of the inside of the passage. Is it in there and stuck or missing where I need to check the floor?
Edit - looked under the lift. Nothing there. Tried to jumper the fuel pump for 1 second with rags over the open hole to see if it would shoot out, but no luck.
If it's stuck in there, which line can I disconnect and use a compressor to force it out of the hole?
Here's a boroscope photo of the inside of the passage. Is it in there and stuck or missing where I need to check the floor?
Edit - looked under the lift. Nothing there. Tried to jumper the fuel pump for 1 second with rags over the open hole to see if it would shoot out, but no luck.
If it's stuck in there, which line can I disconnect and use a compressor to force it out of the hole?
Last edited by Petza914; 06-19-2019 at 07:44 PM.
#422
Rennlist Member
Hi Pete,
I think that piston should move pretty easily. In fact, I'm not sure I see it in your pictures. Could it have fallen out? Probably not. Apparently that's a fine tolerance fit, and may not survive much damage from trauma or corrosion.
Maybe Greg will be able to tell from your pictures.
Good luck,
Dave
I think that piston should move pretty easily. In fact, I'm not sure I see it in your pictures. Could it have fallen out? Probably not. Apparently that's a fine tolerance fit, and may not survive much damage from trauma or corrosion.
Maybe Greg will be able to tell from your pictures.
Good luck,
Dave
#423
Intermediate
FD
A - connected to WUR
B - has red wire tie on it - is this the input from the Fuel pump or the return from the FD back to the tank
C - has yellow wire tie on it - is this the input from the Fuel pump or the return from the FD back to the tank
D - connected to WUR
A - connected to WUR
B - has red wire tie on it - is this the input from the Fuel pump or the return from the FD back to the tank
C - has yellow wire tie on it - is this the input from the Fuel pump or the return from the FD back to the tank
D - connected to WUR
C is the return to the tank
to verify if the pressure regulator piston is actually in there, remove the connection at C and you should see the side of a cylinder with a groove in it
some good photos are here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ulator-O-rings
and a jammed one is shown here https://delorean.co.nz/mydmc/k-jetro...ooting-part-3/
#424
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B is the fuel input from the tank
C is the return to the tank
to verify if the pressure regulator piston is actually in there, remove the connection at C and you should see the side of a cylinder with a groove in it
some good photos are here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ulator-O-rings
and a jammed one is shown here https://delorean.co.nz/mydmc/k-jetro...ooting-part-3/
C is the return to the tank
to verify if the pressure regulator piston is actually in there, remove the connection at C and you should see the side of a cylinder with a groove in it
some good photos are here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ulator-O-rings
and a jammed one is shown here https://delorean.co.nz/mydmc/k-jetro...ooting-part-3/
#425
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I do believe we've identified the excessive fuel pressure issue.
Greg Brown wins this round as I believe he was the first to mention the stuck pressures regulator plunger.
It's in there and it's still stuck even though I've removed the FD from the car, sprayed both ports that have access to it with penetrating oil and tried to pry it out using the groove that's accessible from the side port with a screwdriver, a pick, and even tried to gently wedge a tap in from the end to try and get it it to bite a little where I could turn it to free it or pull it out - none of those methods are working and it's still in there.
Upon removing the 3 screws from the top of the FD to get it off the shoe, I had to use a manual impact hammer to free one of them and when it came out, the barrel was all rusty. So was the screen on the B inlet port to the threaded fitting it sits in. Guess I got overzealous when cleaning it and introduced a bunch of water based cleaning solution into it that then rusted the iron parts.
A little penetrating oil on the bottom plunger has it working very freely, but I'm concerned with how much rust there may be inside and may not want to risk reinstalling it, even if I can get the jammed piece out. Ron Borras has a remanufactured one for his Euro he's going to let me have tomorrow and I'll replace it with a rebuilt one from Mark Anderson in a couple weeks when his comes back from the refurb shop, as this arrangement might let me still make the Rendezvous if that turns out to be my only issue. What a great community this is.
Greg Brown wins this round as I believe he was the first to mention the stuck pressures regulator plunger.
It's in there and it's still stuck even though I've removed the FD from the car, sprayed both ports that have access to it with penetrating oil and tried to pry it out using the groove that's accessible from the side port with a screwdriver, a pick, and even tried to gently wedge a tap in from the end to try and get it it to bite a little where I could turn it to free it or pull it out - none of those methods are working and it's still in there.
Upon removing the 3 screws from the top of the FD to get it off the shoe, I had to use a manual impact hammer to free one of them and when it came out, the barrel was all rusty. So was the screen on the B inlet port to the threaded fitting it sits in. Guess I got overzealous when cleaning it and introduced a bunch of water based cleaning solution into it that then rusted the iron parts.
A little penetrating oil on the bottom plunger has it working very freely, but I'm concerned with how much rust there may be inside and may not want to risk reinstalling it, even if I can get the jammed piece out. Ron Borras has a remanufactured one for his Euro he's going to let me have tomorrow and I'll replace it with a rebuilt one from Mark Anderson in a couple weeks when his comes back from the refurb shop, as this arrangement might let me still make the Rendezvous if that turns out to be my only issue. What a great community this is.
#426
Rennlist Member
Hi Pete,
That looks like the deal. In fairness this is what I said in Post 376: (I know I was guessing, where Greg knows what he's talking about)
"...I don't know much about K-jet injection, but it sounds like your pressure at idle was too high (rich), and at part throttle it is too low (lean). Pressure partially determines amount of fuel delivered, since the injectors flow continuously. Is it possible that some component in the pressure regulator is stuck? I don't know if that's even a reasonable question, but it sounds like something is working opposite to design, or not at all.
As I read the WSM and my Fuel Injection book by Probst, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel distributor body, and depends on a spring activated valve which returns fuel to the tank depending on pressure..."
The most important part of what I said was that I don't know much about K-jet. I was really hoping that Greg Brown would jump in and give insight. He finally did so, and it looks like he was right.
Good job,
Dave
That looks like the deal. In fairness this is what I said in Post 376: (I know I was guessing, where Greg knows what he's talking about)
"...I don't know much about K-jet injection, but it sounds like your pressure at idle was too high (rich), and at part throttle it is too low (lean). Pressure partially determines amount of fuel delivered, since the injectors flow continuously. Is it possible that some component in the pressure regulator is stuck? I don't know if that's even a reasonable question, but it sounds like something is working opposite to design, or not at all.
As I read the WSM and my Fuel Injection book by Probst, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel distributor body, and depends on a spring activated valve which returns fuel to the tank depending on pressure..."
The most important part of what I said was that I don't know much about K-jet. I was really hoping that Greg Brown would jump in and give insight. He finally did so, and it looks like he was right.
Good job,
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 06-19-2019 at 11:51 PM.
#427
RL Community Team
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Hi Pete,
That looks like the deal. In fairness this is what I said in Post 376: (I know I was guessing, where Greg knows what he's talking about)
"...I don't know much about K-jet injection, but it sounds like your pressure at idle was too high (rich), and at part throttle it is too low (lean). Pressure partially determines amount of fuel delivered, since the injectors flow continuously. Is it possible that some component in the pressure regulator is stuck? I don't know if that's even a reasonable question, but it sounds like something is working opposite to design, or not at all.
As I read the WSM and my Fuel Injection book by Probst, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel distributor body, and depends on a spring activated valve which returns fuel to the tank depending on pressure..."
The most important part of what I said was that I don't know much about K-jet. I was really hoping that Greg Brown would jump in and give insight. He finally did so, and it looks like he was right.
Good job,
Dave
That looks like the deal. In fairness this is what I said in Post 376: (I know I was guessing, where Greg knows what he's talking about)
"...I don't know much about K-jet injection, but it sounds like your pressure at idle was too high (rich), and at part throttle it is too low (lean). Pressure partially determines amount of fuel delivered, since the injectors flow continuously. Is it possible that some component in the pressure regulator is stuck? I don't know if that's even a reasonable question, but it sounds like something is working opposite to design, or not at all.
As I read the WSM and my Fuel Injection book by Probst, the fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel distributor body, and depends on a spring activated valve which returns fuel to the tank depending on pressure..."
The most important part of what I said was that I don't know much about K-jet. I was really hoping that Greg Brown would jump in and give insight. He finally did so, and it looks like he was right.
Good job,
Dave
Dave, evidently you know more than you've let on. Thanks for the help.
Pete
Last edited by Petza914; 06-20-2019 at 08:27 AM.
#428
Former Vendor
Just happy to help people with these cars, when I can.
#431
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Tonight I was able to free the pressure valve from the FD by prying on the groove accessible through the side port. I guess after it sitting full of synthetic penetrating oil for 24 hours it decided to give up. With it on the end of a magnet it moves in and out smoothly, as does the bottom plunger and when the bottom plunger moves I can hear it pushing fluid or sucking.
I'm still meeting Ron in the morning to pick up his known good one off his Euro just in case when I reinstall mine, it doesn't hold the right control pressure or hold it steady. Worst (or best) case is mine works and I return Ron's to him at Rendezvous Uninstalled.
We'll know something tomorrow one way or the other. 🤞
I'm still meeting Ron in the morning to pick up his known good one off his Euro just in case when I reinstall mine, it doesn't hold the right control pressure or hold it steady. Worst (or best) case is mine works and I return Ron's to him at Rendezvous Uninstalled.
We'll know something tomorrow one way or the other. 🤞
#432
Rennlist Member
Eureka! Fingers crossed. I've heard old gas is bad for these systems and maybe this is one example of the problems caused. You might run some Techron or something similar through.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
#433
RL Community Team
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I run Stabil in all fill UPS of my Porsches and in the 928 about 1/3 bottle of SeaFoam in each tank to keep the FD lubricated.
#434
Rennlist Member
I have used both of those products, and was satisfied. I have switched to Star tron enzyme fuel treatment, and Techron. Don't know which are the better.
Good luck on your startup. I think it will run fine.
Dave
Good luck on your startup. I think it will run fine.
Dave
#435
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Picked up the fuel distributor from Ron this morning. It had been installed in his Euro that sits outside and was a reman unit. The paint most companies use in the reman units isn't great and this one had already developed some external "patina".
I decided not to attempt to reinstall my own as I don't have time to do these projects twice and still make Rendezvous, so I'll keep mine as a spare or send it to a rebuilder, and get Ron another reman unit if this one resolves my issues.
Since it was going into this freshly restored engine bay, it needed a clean up.
I used rubber stoppers to block all the openings, then went to it with a couple of small wire wheels - one in a drill and a really small one in a dremel to relive all the light surface rust.
Then I had my wife cut me some adhesive vinyl circles I could use to mask off, not only the fittings ports, but also the sealing surface where the crush washers for the banjo bolts go, as I thought uneven paint on those surfaces might prevent a proper seal.
Then I mixed up about 2 oz. of a 2-part epoxy paint I bought that should be fuel resistant and brushed on a couple light coats in one sitting. The paint has a 50 min working time and 2 hour curing time. About 4 hours later it was mostly dry but I could feel a bit of tackiness, so letting it fully cure and harden overnight.
Here's the finished product with the masking circles removed.
Tomorrow I'll install it, along with a set of Greg Brown injector fuel lines I bought from Roger and I also put in another set of new Bosch injectors as I want all this to go back together once, and to work.
I decided not to attempt to reinstall my own as I don't have time to do these projects twice and still make Rendezvous, so I'll keep mine as a spare or send it to a rebuilder, and get Ron another reman unit if this one resolves my issues.
Since it was going into this freshly restored engine bay, it needed a clean up.
I used rubber stoppers to block all the openings, then went to it with a couple of small wire wheels - one in a drill and a really small one in a dremel to relive all the light surface rust.
Then I had my wife cut me some adhesive vinyl circles I could use to mask off, not only the fittings ports, but also the sealing surface where the crush washers for the banjo bolts go, as I thought uneven paint on those surfaces might prevent a proper seal.
Then I mixed up about 2 oz. of a 2-part epoxy paint I bought that should be fuel resistant and brushed on a couple light coats in one sitting. The paint has a 50 min working time and 2 hour curing time. About 4 hours later it was mostly dry but I could feel a bit of tackiness, so letting it fully cure and harden overnight.
Here's the finished product with the masking circles removed.
Tomorrow I'll install it, along with a set of Greg Brown injector fuel lines I bought from Roger and I also put in another set of new Bosch injectors as I want all this to go back together once, and to work.