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Looking at the clutch discs again I see the problem. There are grease spray lines that go out from the hub to the shiny surfaces on the friction discs.
I thought the splined shaft was supposed to be lubricated with the super sticky clutch grease. Did I use too much?
I've just finished putting the clutch back together with the other friction discs and the same lubricated splined shaft and am now concerned the same thing is going to happen, or maybe a little grease on those super grabby sintered metal friction discs is just what I need for a smoother engagement
Should I try it like this or take it apart again before driving it and messing up these other friction discs? Will the grease eventually wear or burn off the sintered metal discs instead of being absorbed into the OEM friction material? Are those grabby enough to compensate for a little grease on them?
Pete is that the original pressure plate or a new one? That thing looks like it's got hot spots from hell. I'd say you have a combination of the spline grease getting on the friction discs and a burnt PP.
Judging from the heat/wear on several of these metal inserts that there is some defect in the clutch plates themselves?
It looks like the metal spot in the disc was in contact with the flywheel and caused hot spots and some metal transfer...
Where are those clutch discs from and do you have the old ones or a new set?
I got them from 928 Int'l and they were brand new when I put this motor in. I reused my flywheel, intermediate plate, and pressure plate since they were new when Carl did my engine build about 20,000 miles ago.
I have the sintered metal spec discs that came out and put those back in last night. They're super aggressive and will likely address any surface irregularities you see on the mating surfaces after the first couple engagements.
Here are pictures of the spec discs that went back in last night and pictures of what the other parts looked like dirty the first time I took them out a couple months, and 2 short test drives ago (15 miles). Hopefully these other friction discs didn't permanently damage the other parts. There's plenty of meat left on these spec discs and they're super grippy and tough.
My biggest concern right now is the grease. I used the proper "super sticky grease" from Roger. When I initially put the clutch back together I had used a Teflon dry lube instead. It lasted exactly 2 moves in the driveway before the clutch started hanging up so I took it apart and used the proper stuff.
This is what slung onto the friction material and I'm sure caused the slipping. Maybe I was right on the edge of those discs being able to hold the torque and with a little lube on them, no chance.
Do we think with the much grabbier spec discs I'll be OK even if a little slings, or does it all need to come apart again. The friction material on these discs feels like metal so I don't think it will absorb any grease even if some gets on it.
I thought the splined shaft was supposed to be lubricated with the super sticky clutch grease. Did I use too much?
Yes, those track lines are very telling. You can even see where the grease landed on the friction material. I have had so much trouble with grease on the splines that I run mine dry. Dry, but clean. Have not had any issue doing that.
Carl, so you're saying I probably need to pull it all apart again and remove the excess grease or will the other friction material on the discs compensate for my liberal greasing error?
If you are using those discs still, you can try degreasing them - I'd use carb cleaner to try to wash it out of the frictions discs. Can't guarantee it will work. Once the grease is absorbed into the NAO material, it isn't likely to come out. But you can try.
The discoloration of the spring fingers is a worry too. The clutch might be slipping because the pressure plate has weakened springs now. That bluing is pretty bad. Sorry Buddy.
If you are using those discs still, you can try degreasing them - I'd use carb cleaner to try to wash it out of the frictions discs. Can't guarantee it will work. Once the grease is absorbed into the NAO material, it isn't likely to come out. But you can try.
Carl, no, those greased discs are sitting on the workbench and the SPEC discs you installed are back in there that almost seem like a sintered metal material. The question is if grease from the shaft were to do the same thing on these discs would they hold or slip, and if they slip, would this type be cleanable once I took it apart again since they seem much less absorbant.
If you think the pressure plate may also be marginal, than I probably don't need any grease on the friction discs to make things worse. I never had any slipping of the clutch before - it was obvious the first time it happened here, but I checked the rear view mirror to see if maybe I had broken the rear end loose instead - no such luck.
Hope all goes well Pete! Thanks to your grease slinging issue, I am going to pull my clutch back out and clean most of the high pressure grease off. I obviously applied WAY too much.
If you lube the spines at all, all you want is a surface smear of it. Wipe it on thinly, then wipe it off, done. Leave nothing that can sling when it rotates.
Next topic is the guide tube for the throw-out bearing. Slight film of grease there may help the TOB slide, but then again, any grease collects dirt and the abrasives that fall off the clutch as it wears. So, although it may help initially, it likely gets worse as the grease gets dirty and gritty. Its a harsh environment in there. Best to follow the same rules - wipe it on and wipe it off. A very thin film is best if you lube it at all. You want nothing that will become a dirt-magnet.
06-25-2019, 01:30 AM
