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With K-Jet mechanical CIS does it matter to which port on the fuel distributor the injector lines get connected to? With the GB stainless lines, they fit better if #4 and #8 both go to the rear port on the FD, but I think the OEM hard fuel line setup has #8 going to the front port on that side, which makes the SS line have an odd twist.
I want to move #8 to the back port and shift all the other lines forward one port which will make the driver's side match the passenger side, but not if it's going to cause me a fuel delivery or distribution issue.
On the 928ms website for Carl's adjustable fuel distributor he shows his as lines in the assembled photo going from #8 to the back port, so seems like that's OK.
With the new fuel distributor installed - IT RUNS!
Without the supercharger installed. AFR at idle is 13.5 and without any load. Revving to 2,000, 3,000, and 4,000 RPMs it's in the 11.5-12 range which is a hair rich, but I'll see what things look like with the supercharger hooked back up and adjust the mixture screw from there, then might need to do further tweaks after doing an actual test drive with load.
While I was holding the RPMs at 4,000 my KnockLink light flashed red so I got JP to hold the revs while I checked the timing (with the vacuum lines off), and sure enough, it was almost at 40 degrees of advance BTDC. I rolled it back to 28 degrees and did the same test, and no flashing light, so it looks like maybe that sensor is going to work and provide some knock detection protection.
Bottom line is we're now making progress for the first time in a few weeks and I think the stuck pressure valve in the FD was the culprit.
Big shout out to Ron for meeting me yesterday and pulling the FD from his Euro.
As luck would have it today though, it's now pouring, so test drives will have to wait until tomorrow. I'll put the supercharger and intake back together and see where things are then.
No, it does not matter. All the 8 slits within the fuel distributor match, and the piston uncovers all of them equally and at the same time. Route them so they are nice and pretty No harm done.
No, it does not matter. All the 8 slits within the fuel distributor match, and the piston uncovers all of them equally and at the same time. Route them so they are nice and pretty No harm done.
Excellent and thanks.
Reassembly complete, including my 928MS strut brace
Stationary test run also successful. Had to richwn the mixture a touch. Is between 12 and 13. 5 up to 5,000 rpm with no load. I'll see what happens tomorrow on a test drive, which I need to do anyway since the car is almost out of gas.
Well, it made it to and from the gas station about 5 miles away, but here's the list of issues:
On the way back, under boost, the clutch is slipping - RPMs rising without speed increasing, then catching and the smell of burning clutch (no tire stripes in the rear view mirror, so it wasn't the rear end breaking loose). Is it possible the stock dual plate clutch with the resurfaced friction discs can't handle the HP or Torque from this setup (probably around 400 HP & Torque) and I need to go back to the sintered spec clutch discs that came out of the car? They're so grabby, that would be a shame. Or is there an adjustment for the intermediate plate I might have incorrect where I'm not getting full friction contact from both discs to hold the power? Clutch action is perfectly smooth, no grinding of gears, so I'm getting full disengagement and I thought the intermediate plate was self adjusting once put together. I've read where the initial adjustment can be incorrect, which prevents disengagement and grinding of gears, but didn't know it could be incorrect in the other direction.
Cold start took a few cycles of the starter to get it to catch, but that may be from air in the cold start injector line since I just reinstalled that yesterday. Also, once it was running, it did not have the elevated idle it always used to have. Instead it stayed right at 1,000 - used to fire up and idle at around 1,600 then work it's way down.
AFR #s
At idle it's 13.5
Under heavy vacuum conditions it's getting semi-lean, like 14-14.5
Under light throttle it's right about 13
Under heavy acceleration with boost it was somewhere between 11.5 and 12.5 which is rich, but safe. Couldn't test that more than a couple times as the clutch would then start slipping as soon as I'd hit boost. Is that too rich where I should lean out the mixture screw a little or under full throttle does the mixture screw do very little? If I lean out the mixture screw, I'm afraid I'll be too lean at idle and under vacuum, like when coasting with the car in gear and the vacuum gauge pinned at the far left.
My crankcase breather setup and drain hose is producing an oil puddle under the car so oil or oil vapor is condensing and dripping out. The oil in the motor currently is pretty thin though - Driven BR40 straight weight oil that I'm using to dissolve the assembly lube I used when putting the oil pump and cams together. I'll switch to DT50 (15W/50) before the weekend.
Timing moved on me a couple of times. I had set it at idle in the mid-20 degree range and when I came back from the first drive, at idle, it was close to 40. Moved it back to around 30 and the next time, it was close to 20. It now seems to be holding at 25 at idle but I'll check it again after the next test drive. It's possible the vacuum advance actuator arm is sticking so it gets advanced and then stays there. Should I try and run it with just the normal retard hose hooked up and the advance hose removed? If I do that, should I cap of the advance hose to the throttle body and the port on the distributor or leave the advance port on the distributor open to atmosphere?
At higher RPMs, the car feels strong and like it's firing on all cylinders. At lower RPMs, it feels like it's missing and sluggish. Is this a timing thing or a mixture thing? At the higher RPMs the mixture is richer so should I try to richen the mixture screw a little or will that make me too rich under light throttle conditions where I'm currently around 13? Spark plugs were all new NGK BR8ES and gapped at .028. It's possible they could have gotten fouled over the past few weeks with the richness at idle that the fuel pressure issue was causing, but that seems unlikely and I think they would have cleaned up on the test drive.
On the positive side,
Oil pressure is strong at 5. Cooling system is working great with the needle in the middle of the gauge when driving. Electric fans are kicking on just before the last white line and cooling things back off. Idle seems to be stable. When hot started, it fires immediately.
Any thoughts or assistance on the tuning part would be greatly appreciated.
Drive down with your son in your Cayenne. The Spyder is showing too many teething issues with the new heads/cams/etc. It might make the trip, but I also don't like the thought of your Spyder and your son on the side of the Interstate somewhere. Let's get this sorted before we push for The Long Drive. That's just my opinion.
As to clutch - please see our dyno chart below of your car that was taken right after your Stage 2 kit was installed on your 4.5L motor. Note the peak torque rpm - is that about where your clutch is breaking free? Now that you have the 4.7 heads and valves, plus intake and throttle body, we would expect the output is even higher.
Remember: clutches hold torque, not horsepower. The dyno below says that you were making 362 ft lbs of torque at the motor at that time. It's easy to believe you are at 400 ft. lbs of torque or more now. I would expect that Yes, you will have to put the clutch disks I gave you back in to hold it. Sorry buddy. Its inescapable - you make mods for more HP and Torque... you have to upgrade the clutch to match... its just the way it is. You lucky devil!
Hi Pete,
That sounds decent. The clutch doesn't sound so good. Not sure if new, but maybe (doubtful) adjustable. You may need better friction material for all that power?
It doesn't sound like you have your timing quite right. Try using your timing light and run the throttle to different speeds to see if the vacuum advance/retard functions are working. There is a WSM section on setting up the 1982 distributor timing. I have forgotten the details right now. Make sure you have that check valve T'd into the retard line so you can't blow into it from the open end. I would not run with the advance port disconnected or open to air. You might want to re-read my PM's about how that is supposed to work, but it assumes the distributor is fully functional.
Best of luck. You have knocked down a whole lot of barriers, and only have a couple left.
I know you will succeed!
Dave
It's only Monday - can't throw in the towel on a Friday trip just yet...
New update. I replaced the spark plugs figuring that all that rich and lean fluctuating with the fuel distributor problem may have messed up the set that was in there. I installed a set of Bosch Super copper
Here are photos of the plugs I pulled. 6 of the 8 have very clean tips. The other 2 are dark. Are the 2 that are dark probably fouled and not firing which is why the engine didn't feel right?
All 8
5-8
1-4
Are the other 6 too bright and clean and what does that tell us, or do those 6 look OK?
I enriched the mixture screw about 1/8 turn. The test drive with the new plugs and new mixture setting was better. Engine idle was nice and stable AFR under coasting vacuum was 12.8 or so and was around 12.5 most of the rest of the time. I tried another full throttle and was 11 something at 2 lbs of boost before the clutch slipped again.
Timing at 3,000 rpm and 4,000 RPM with both vacuum lines attached is right at 28 BTDC.
Seems like I'm pretty close, other than the clutch, which I am going to swap back out tonight so I don't burn up the flywheel.
06-23-2019, 02:07 PM
No harm done.
