What did you do to your 924/944 today
10-12-2009, 09:00 AM
#691
Advanced
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-12-2009, 12:56 PM
#692
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: tampa, fl
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10-12-2009, 02:53 PM
#694
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Isnt the NS used for LSD equipped cars?
10-12-2009, 04:34 PM
#695
Just a car guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: South Lyon, Michigan, Ewe Ess Eh
Posts: 9,927
Received 835 Likes
on
524 Posts
Not my car and it wasn't today.
Girlfriend's car and I rebuilt the lower control arms last weekend and installed them yesterday. Wrote a little story about it and posted over at RW.
Girlfriend's car and I rebuilt the lower control arms last weekend and installed them yesterday. Wrote a little story about it and posted over at RW.
10-12-2009, 06:55 PM
#698
Race Car
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
don't think so... http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7
it's listed under tranny fluids, not gear lubes
Designed for transmissions and transaxles - helps to slow synchros for easier shifting across a broad temperature range
Popular in Ferrari, Porsche and Subaru transaxles
Contains extreme pressure additives like our 75W90 GL-5 oil, but lacks friction modifiers to balance slipperiness
Improved copper corrosion protection to prolong synchro life
Recommended for API GL-5, GL-6, MT-1, MIL-L-2105E and SAE J2360
Helps with lock-up on weak limited-slip differentials-compatible with Red Line Limited Slip Friction Modifier for tuning slippage
Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper synchro engagement)
Porsche spec is 75W90 GL5 Mil-L-2105B (E supercedes)
it feels much better, the PO had Mobil 1 75W140 gear oil, too thick...
it's listed under tranny fluids, not gear lubes
Designed for transmissions and transaxles - helps to slow synchros for easier shifting across a broad temperature range
Popular in Ferrari, Porsche and Subaru transaxles
Contains extreme pressure additives like our 75W90 GL-5 oil, but lacks friction modifiers to balance slipperiness
Improved copper corrosion protection to prolong synchro life
Recommended for API GL-5, GL-6, MT-1, MIL-L-2105E and SAE J2360
Helps with lock-up on weak limited-slip differentials-compatible with Red Line Limited Slip Friction Modifier for tuning slippage
Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper synchro engagement)
Porsche spec is 75W90 GL5 Mil-L-2105B (E supercedes)
it feels much better, the PO had Mobil 1 75W140 gear oil, too thick...
10-12-2009, 07:09 PM
#700
1st Gear
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replaced the water pump. Which means I also replaced the A/C belt, timing belt, balance shaft belt, thermostat... etc. Not a simple or quick task, but managed to get it all done and back on the road in less than 4 hours.
'83 944
'83 944
10-12-2009, 08:37 PM
#701
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
made some progress with my lovely bandsaw
1 bandsaw
2 manifold
3 plenum cutoff
4 runners cutoff (look like headers! bolt spacing is the same too)
5 jaguar IC
6 jaguar runners cut off, still some cleanup to do
7 mockup of what i have cut
8 edited pic of what it will look like after more cutting and welding
1 bandsaw
2 manifold
3 plenum cutoff
4 runners cutoff (look like headers! bolt spacing is the same too)
5 jaguar IC
6 jaguar runners cut off, still some cleanup to do
7 mockup of what i have cut
8 edited pic of what it will look like after more cutting and welding
10-13-2009, 12:37 PM
#704
Nordschleife Master
Imagine you barreling down the highway at 75MPH, when all of the sudden half your suspension is no longer connected! I usually ends poorly for driver and car alike. His GF got lucky... very lucky...
10-13-2009, 12:44 PM
#705
Just a car guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: South Lyon, Michigan, Ewe Ess Eh
Posts: 9,927
Received 835 Likes
on
524 Posts
Having said that - you can check for slop. Take a large pry-bar and apply leverage between the knuckle and the lower control arm. If there is movement - there is a problem. Since this is very difficult to check while the vehicle is on the ground, you can get the car on jackstands and then gently raise the jack under the ball joint and watch to see if there is relative movement. A second set of eyes on the subject is a good idea. The person operating the jack will not have the greatest view.
Performing this job at 100k is probably a very good idea.
Don't let it get to the point we did. The only defense I have is, the laundry list of stuff that needs attention on her car is huge. We recently did: camshaft (damaged due to hack-job woodruff key), waterpump, timing belt, front end seals, radiator temperature sensor, O2 sensor, motor mounts, oil cooler seals, alternator, starter and passenger side door handle. With the new ball joints - at least she can drive the car again.
