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I'm putting a complete SC running gear (suspension, engine and tranny) into a 70 911 keeping it as light as possible with short gears, PMO's, RS struts, etc. I'll share more pics later. Good luck with the Signal Yellow color. I owned an automotive paint supply store for 35 years and sold it late 2018. The original color back in the 70's was when we had leaded paints. When lead was removed from paints in the 80's and 90's most paint manufacturers developed solvent based toners that were lead free that came pretty close to the original color. Then along came waterborne technology and those toners were pretty much history. I live in a State where we can still use solvent based paints so I had the company that acquired me search all of their stores (more than 75 stores in total) to find enough toner to make a solvent based Signal Yellow which is the closest you can get to the original color. We were able to find enough of these "older" solvent based toners in their multiple stores to make enough color for this project. I have about another month or two and I will have this project completed. Here are a couple more teaser photos.
Sounds and looks awesome! My painter is going to be using Glasurit single stage on my car. I have a very good paint card from John Wilhoit so I am hoping the shade comes out good. I do agree that a lot of these paint jobs in these vintage colors just don't come out the right shade.
Glasurit single stage should be very close on color. You might want to ask your painter if he is up to clear coating the single stage. It would cut down on the amount of the expensive yellow color, provides for easier color sanding and polishing and also makes it easier to spot in down the road if needed because of nicks, damage, scratches etc.
You are right about the benefits with base clear. I have struggled with the 2 stage vs single. My painter is actually second generation - he took over from his dad and the shop has only done Glasurit single stage for over 40 years focused on Porsche so he is pretty traditional and I wanted this approach for the car. Should be fun to see how it comes out - I will share some photos along the way. Yours looks really good - the right oranginess (red in the yellow) - so many are off.
I like that dash, Bruce P! What is the basket weave brown material you used? Answer on your own build thread if you want - we can keep this one on track.
I work a lot of hours with my job — so, I haven’t been able to do much on the motor build since my last post. However, I took some time after work today to get everything ready to seal up the crankcase this weekend. Here is a photo of the tool cart with everything I will need for this next step in my motor build. After I seal up the case, I will most likely not make much more progress on the motor for a while.
I would recommend to you to find a legitimate shop with an engine dyno to break-in, and then dyno that engine for you before you stick it back in the car. Having done this at least a dozen times in the past 35 years and following your extensive work, this will be a great investment in trouble-shooting and documenting the engine. This has been my own protocol now since the early 90's.
07-21-2020, 08:31 PM
