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Not saying it had anything to do with it, just saying maybe they made some behind the scenes changes when going thru that process.
They make changes/improvements all of the way along, to change the specification for the oil weight for might be the same engine in a 2019-2021 as compared to a 2022+ is curious though...
Not saying it is related in anyway, but maybe the 2022 change had something to do with the investigation from the 2021 CAM RON recall and stop sell? Just throwing out ideas.
We know that the PCCB brake pads (and probably the steel pads as well) were quietly changed for 2022. I am sure there are a bunch of 2022 changes that happened that were not publicized.
The Porsche Technical documents posted above do not differentiate between MYs…C40 is C40 including 5Ws.
Forget what the OM says, it mis identifies the oil fill location.
Porsche updates it’s C40 certified oils couple times a year.
The Porsche Technical documents posted above do not differentiate between MYs…C40 is C40 including 5Ws.
Forget what the OM says, it mis identifies the oil fill location.
Porsche updates it’s C40 certified oils couple times a year.
Hmmm, actually the way I read the ENU 1701 that you posted it does differentiate between model years, it specifically states up to MY2020 and for that 5W and 0W are acceptable, it says nothing in that document about this applying to 2021 and 2022 cars.
However this updated version of the ENU 1701 document make a definite distinction about the use of 0W oil in a specific model year.
Hmmm, actually the way I read the ENU 1701 that you posted it does differentiate between model years, it specifically states up to MY2020 and for that 5W and 0W are acceptable, it says nothing in that document about this applying to 2021 and 2022 cars.
However this updated version of the ENU 1701 document make a definite distinction about the use of 0W oil in a specific model year.
Good sleuthing! In my original post with attachment I said not to worry about the document stating 2020 MY as I had seen your additional document above.
However, I neglecting to see the lower caveat “from MY21 onward 0W…only”
Lastly that caveat applies to all MY21s forward that use C40 and not targeted at 718.
Good stuff, think we now have the correct technical answer after 500 posts.
Yeah, I don't think you can rely on the electronic info even if it was the correct link. They have the bottles of X3 oil entered into the store computers incorrectly. When they scanned mine, it came up empty in the computer.
Same experience here. I had no problem getting C40 from Hennessy in Roswell, Ga the one time I needed it before my annual service @ 4,100 miles. My Autozone in Alpharetta has the same end cap display as previously posted and it also won’t scan as being in inventory.
Yesterday was a beautiful morning, and I eventually got all 9 quarts of the coveted Mobil-1 ESP X3 0W-40 oil - after visiting *FIVE* different Autozone stores. I first hit the two stores that were closest to my house with zero luck. Then I just set Waze to take me to the next one a town away, and I scored 6 quarts there (first time seeing the end-cap for this particular oil). Nothing at store four, but store five had the full display again. So it's definitely not something that every Autozone has (yet), but hopefully they'll eventually get to all stores.
Like others have said, there was a spot for 5-liter jugs, but none on the shelf in the 0W-40 rating at the two stores that had the end-caps. And the 1-quart bottles did not scan at the register, but I was prepared for that with a photo of the price/UPC barcode from the end cap display.
All in all, it was a beautiful morning for a scavenger hunt, cruising some twisty back-roads through farm country with the exhaust valves wired open!
Yup, I have Motul in the garage. It's a quality brand for sure, all the Porsche race shops I know recommend all Motul fluids, so I'm comfortable at this point. I still would love to know why the change at Porsche from 0W to 5W oils in 2022.
Usually changing from a 0w to 5w will increase the HTHS viscosity and also improve the shear stability since they need less viscosity modifiers.
The change to a 5w instead of a 0w goes along with what I've been recommending for almost 20 years :-)
Usually changing from a 0w to 5w will increase the HTHS viscosity and also improve the shear stability since they need less viscosity modifiers.
The change to a 5w instead of a 0w goes along with what I've been recommending for almost 20 years :-)
So by that recommendation do you feel that using the 5W-40 C40 spec oil in the 4.0l engine is not only beneficial but a good idea when the ambient temperatures support it?
I have a 2020 and felt that the 5W-40 oil would be a great summer oil.
So by that recommendation do you feel that using the 5W-40 C40 spec oil in the 4.0l engine is not only beneficial but a good idea when the ambient temperatures support it?
I have a 2020 and felt that the 5W-40 oil would be a great summer oil.
Unless you live in the Arctic Circle and start your car up well below 0F on a daily basis, there is no need for a 0w. So yes, you should be good with a 5w40 C40 oil for the street.
Unless you live in the Arctic Circle and start your car up well below 0F on a daily basis, there is no need for a 0w. So yes, you should be good with a 5w40 C40 oil for the street.
Do you have any opinion about any risk to warranty by using 5W40 in the 2022 models and later that require specifically 0W40 C40 oil? Do you have any insight about why it may be exclusively specified (emissions or fuel economy, perhaps?)?
Also in the 992 GT3 (and likely in the GT4 RS), you can only drain half the oil on a normal oil change. Do you have any thoughts on the consequences of that and what an owner might do to maximize engine longevity (change oil more frequently than recommended, perhaps?)?
Do you have any opinion about any risk to warranty by using 5W40 in the 2022 models and later that require specifically 0W40 C40 oil? Do you have any insight about why it may be exclusively specified (emissions or fuel economy, perhaps?)?
Also in the 992 GT3 (and likely in the GT4 RS), you can only drain half the oil on a normal oil change. Do you have any thoughts on the consequences of that and what an owner might do to maximize engine longevity (change oil more frequently than recommended, perhaps?)?
Thanks!
The C40 standard covers two items - LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) and GPF (gasoline particulate filter). In my opinion, the M1 C40 oil is better than the A40, but I'd wager the reason for a mandate of 0w is for fuel economy. Believe it or not, a 5w40 will net lower MPG than a 0w40. There can't be any functional difference in the engine that would require a 0w40 over a 5w40.
If concerned about your warranty, I would recommend cutting oil change intervals in half and once the warranty is up, there will for sure be plenty of choices for a 5w40 C40/VW 511 oil or you could run Driven's DI40, which is their equivalent. That's what I personally run in my direct injected vehicles.
Unless you live in the Arctic Circle and start your car up well below 0F on a daily basis, there is no need for a 0w. So yes, you should be good with a 5w40 C40 oil for the street.
Its been 35+ since my intro to engine design with part time professor Butler (MSU). He was on the rocket 88 engine team (1950s) when crank shafts started snapping in the Michigan UP in the winter. Some Mech Engr didn’t specify fillet reliefs on the crank shaft machining drawing; cold temps plus stress risers/fatigue led to premature failed shafts at engine start-up.
Back then when oil technology was not what it is today.
All that just to get to one statement prof Butler made (I think it was him- don’t get old): most engine wear occurs at start-up/warm-up.
I wonder if that is still true; 0w-xx/ or 5w-xx oil weights was not in existence then.
Its been 35+ since my intro to engine design with part time professor Butler (MSU). He was on the rocket 88 engine team (1950s) when crank shafts started snapping in the Michigan UP in the winter. Some Mech Engr didn’t specify fillet reliefs on the crank shaft machining drawing; cold temps plus stress risers/fatigue led to premature failed shafts at engine start-up.
Back then when oil technology was not what it is today.
All that just to get to one statement prof Butler made (I think it was him- don’t get old): most engine wear occurs at start-up/warm-up.
I wonder if that is still true; 0w-xx/ or 5w-xx oil weights was not in existence then.
Most certainly there is a huge difference today with oils versus mono and multi-grades from back then, but I understand completely about trying to pump a 15w or 20w in sub-freezing weather. Being we're in Chicago, the weather can be bipolar. One weekend I took my 964 (that I had a the time) to a 356 Club event. It was probably in the 50s that day but overnight it got down to below 0F. Needless to say the engine wouldn't even turn over the next morning in those temps with 20w50 in it. Had to have someone pick me up and come back when the weather warmed back up to pick the car up the next day!
I'm not concerned with a 5w40 in sub zero F starts. I did used oil analysis years ago to measure wear in the winter vs summer and there was a negligible difference in wear, even with repeated starts down to -20F. What I did discover on cars driven in the winter is shorter drain intervals, sometimes as short as 3 months and 3,000 mi. Fuel dilution and also moisture content goes way up unless the car gets driven long distances with the oil temps above 215F for an extended period.
03-18-2022, 05:38 PM
